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Adhesion - Noodler's Benevolent Badger Blue On Mylar & Aluminium Foil


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#1 Sandy1

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Posted 16 November 2012 - 17:26

Hi all,

This set of rather unusual samples was undertaken at the kind request of Member Yoda4561 in my Review of Noodler's Benevolent Badger Blue, Post № 4, ". . . Apply a thin layer of ink to some plastic or aluminum foil, and let it dry overnight. Then run it under the tap to see if the majority of the ink flushes off with only water, or if it dries waterproof . . ."

This is quite a departure from my usual samples & tests, so I hope that no significant aspect was overlooked, and that sampling methods are such that results are of some use to somebody sometime.

As I could not generate adequate images of the samples on aluminium foil from a flatbed scanner, Cathy_Next_Door generously loaned a digital camera so I could generate the images.

Without further ado let's crack on . . .

-]-[-


Figures 1 - 3.
Application - Method.
A swab was used to create daubs of NBBBl on draughting Mylar®: glossy side & frosted side; and domestic Aluminium Foil: shiny side & dull side.

Figure 1.
Application.

  • Mylar:

The glossy side of the Mylar was a bit shy, but took to the Badger after a few swirls.
The frosted side was very hospitable, and the Badger settled right in.

  • Aluminium Foil:

Both sides of the Aluminium Foil initially repelled the Badger, so I persisted in my role as a matchmaker by gently swirling the wet swab; after about ten seconds a pool took shape.
(I suspect that the contact of the swab was necessary to create some tooth and/or remove a residue which afforded the Badger some purchase.)


Posted Image

Top: Left side is Mylar - glossy side.
Bottom: Left side is Foil - shiny side.


Figure 2.
Smear.
  • About eight hours after application the lower portion of the each sample was given a single downward stroke with a stark naked finger at pressure that would create a soft fold on a sheet of copy/print paper.

Posted Image

Top: Left side is Mylar - glossy side.
Bottom: Left side is Foil - shiny side.


Figure 3.
Water Rinse.
  • About eight hours after application the samples were held under a gentle stream of water for a minute - more of a rinse than a wash.

Posted Image

Top: Left side is Mylar - glossy side.
Bottom: Left side is Foil - shiny side.


Figures 4 - 6.
Application Method & Comparison:
  • A round-nib Brause Ornament dip pen was used to draw lines of two FP inks: Sailor sei-boku and NBBBl; followed by a Sharpie permanent marker (for reference.)

Figure 4.
Application.

Posted Image

L → R: Mylar - glossy (Ssb, NBBBl, Sharpie); Mylar - frosted (Ssb, NBBBl, Sharpie); Foil - shiny (Ssb, NBBBl, Sharpie); Foil - dull (Ssb, NBBBl, Sharpie)


Figure 5.
Smear.
  • About eight hours after application the lower portion of the each sample was given a single downward stroke with a stark naked finger at pressure that would create a soft fold on a sheet of copy/print paper.

Posted Image

L → R: Mylar - glossy (Ssb, NBBBl, Sharpie); Mylar - frosted (Ssb, NBBBl, Sharpie); Foil - shiny (Ssb, NBBBl, Sharpie); Foil - dull (Ssb, NBBBl, Sharpie)


Figure 6.
Water Rinse.
  • About eight hours after application the samples were held under a gentle stream of water for a minute - more of a rinse than a wash.

Posted Image

L → R: Mylar - glossy (Ssb, NBBBl, Sharpie); Mylar - frosted (Ssb, NBBBl, Sharpie); Foil - shiny (Ssb, NBBBl, Sharpie); Foil - dull (Ssb, NBBBl, Sharpie)


PERSONAL OBSERVATIONS

  • I was pleasantly surprised that NBBBl left some sort of artefact on most samples shown.
  • Should the need arise to write on aluminium foil or plastic that is not treated to accept ink, I will persist in reaching for a Sharpie.
  • As ever for this sort of thing, I invite Members to steer any discussion in whatever direction seems relevant.

-30-


Tags: Adhesion Samples Sandy1


Edited by Sandy1, 16 November 2012 - 17:29.

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#2 Yoda4561

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Posted 16 November 2012 - 18:08

Hi sandy! The reason I tend to do this test is to see how difficult an ink will be to flush out of a pen should it end up drying out uncapped or just forgotten in the back of my coffeecup'o pens. It also quickly reveals which Noodler's inks are the drying type and which ones are cellulose reactive, as the cellulose reactive inks like Bulletproof Black will rinse off completely.

#3 amberleadavis

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Posted 20 November 2012 - 06:48

Oh wow, I love this. You have taken the experiments to a whole new level. Posted Image

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#4 Sandy1

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Posted 20 November 2012 - 13:10

Hi sandy! The reason I tend to do this test is to see how difficult an ink will be to flush out of a pen should it end up drying out uncapped or just forgotten in the back of my coffeecup'o pens. It also quickly reveals which Noodler's inks are the drying type and which ones are cellulose reactive, as the cellulose reactive inks like Bulletproof Black will rinse off completely.


Hi,

I think the samples show that NBBBl adheres well to surfaces that would repel most water soluble aniline dye FP inks; and that a gentle wipe and/or a water rinse would not dislodge all of the dry ink.

I believe the samples support the suggestion to use some sort of chemical/physical means to remove the ink from one's pen; and that allowing the ink dry-out in one's pen is best avoided.

Are there other conclusions that may be drawn from the above samples? >> Please chime in.<<

As time & tides permit, I may run a set of 'daub' samples with another of member of Noodler's 'bulletproof' family of inks, such as Lexington Grey. If anyone has suggestions as to modification of method, materials, etc., please let me know via PM.

Bye,
S1

The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire.


#5 Sandy1

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Posted 20 November 2012 - 13:21

Oh wow, I love this. You have taken the experiments to a whole new level. Posted Image


Hi,

As ever, I am not hesitant to embark upon an inky adventure to explore the characteristics of materials that are available.

Bye,
S1

The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire.


#6 amberleadavis

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Posted 07 December 2012 - 06:05

I think you reached the correct conclusion -- the inks that react to the paper are easier to clean out of a dried pen. And logically, allowing inks to dry in the pens should be avoided.

However, let's pretend that your friend is that idiot that has pens dry up on you all the time And let's further pretend that you have subjected your friends pens to sonic cleanings and flushes. And let's further pretend that your friend is into supersaturated colors and won't lay off the Noodler's. At the end of the day, your friend's nibs probably look like this ...


Posted Image




What sort of cleaning methodology would you recommend?

Your mylar test show that some of the inks "stick" to the metal ... Did any solutions work better than others?

Would a toothbrush work better than a soft cloth?

Yes, I am that friend, please, call me Kettle. Posted Image

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Want to get a special letter / gift from me, then create a Ghostly Avatar  

 

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#7 79spitfire

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Posted 07 December 2012 - 06:17

I think you reached the correct conclusion -- the inks that react to the paper are easier to clean out of a dried pen. And logically, allowing inks to dry in the pens should be avoided.

However, let's pretend that your friend is that idiot that has pens dry up on you all the time And let's further pretend that you have subjected your friends pens to sonic cleanings and flushes. And let's further pretend that your friend is into supersaturated colors and won't lay off the Noodler's. At the end of the day, your friend's nibs probably look like this ...


Posted Image




What sort of cleaning methodology would you recommend?

Your mylar test show that some of the inks "stick" to the metal ... Did any solutions work better than others?

Would a toothbrush work better than a soft cloth?

Yes, I am that friend, please, call me Kettle. Posted Image


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#8 Sandy1

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Posted 07 December 2012 - 07:49

I think you reached the correct conclusion -- the inks that react to the paper are easier to clean out of a dried pen. And logically, allowing inks to dry in the pens should be avoided.

However, let's pretend that your friend is that idiot that has pens dry up on you all the time And let's further pretend that you have subjected your friends pens to sonic cleanings and flushes. And let's further pretend that your friend is into supersaturated colors and won't lay off the Noodler's. At the end of the day, your friend's nibs probably look like this ...

. . . ✄

What sort of cleaning methodology would you recommend?

Your mylar test show that some of the inks "stick" to the metal ... Did any solutions work better than others?

Would a toothbrush work better than a soft cloth?

Yes, I am that friend, please, call me Kettle. Posted Image


Hi,

Certainly a bit of wiping seems in order - nothing like a bit of elbow grease. But I'd avoid brushes that may leave [micro] scratches which may hold ink more tenaciously, hence less easy to clean that a smooth surface.

In the NBBBl Review I suggested ye olde DIY cleaning solution of 10% unscented household ammonia + a bit of surfactant such as Kodak Photo-Flow. (That Review has a few 'precautions' as to the use of NBBBl, so taking those into account, along with a sprinkling of common sense, inky goodness awaits.)

If that cleaning solution doesn't work, its on to the Rapido-Eze or similar chemical cleaning solution for draughting pens. I am hesitant to make a blanket recommendation as to its suitability for all pen materials.

Bye,
S1

Edited by Sandy1, 07 December 2012 - 13:23.

The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire.


#9 amberleadavis

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Posted 07 December 2012 - 10:15

Thank you!!!

Fountain pens are my preferred COLOR DELIVERY SYSTEM (in part because crayons melt in Las Vegas).

 

Want to get a special letter / gift from me, then create a Ghostly Avatar  

 

Participate in the newest Inky TODs: 

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#10 Yoda4561

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Posted 07 December 2012 - 11:00

A diluted 1:4 household ammonia:tapwater solution has zapped every noodler's ink I've tested off pen nibs and plastics almost instantly. Sometimes to be extra thorough after an ammonia flush I'll give it a quick run in the ultrasonic (with the ammonia solution still in the feed ) just to make sure it's all liquified before doing the final water only flush.

edit: Nowdays I keep a small *clearly labeled* spray bottle handy with that 1:4 solution in it. I've been using Blue Heron in my safari lately and it's great for a quick spritz on the nib followed by a touchup fill with a little water to keep the pen flowing without doing a full flush.

Edited by Yoda4561, 07 December 2012 - 11:04.


#11 Sandy1

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Posted 07 December 2012 - 13:27

Thank you!!!


Hi,

You're welcome!

See also: 'Limit to soaking?' LINK

Bye,
S1

The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire.


#12 amberleadavis

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Posted 10 December 2012 - 21:17

Thank you!!

Fountain pens are my preferred COLOR DELIVERY SYSTEM (in part because crayons melt in Las Vegas).

 

Want to get a special letter / gift from me, then create a Ghostly Avatar  

 

Participate in the newest Inky TODs: 

Why do I like those nibs? 

What do I like about my handwriting? 

Whose handwriting do I like?  

Which Script Will I learn? 

Which Inks for my Handwriting

 

Ink comparisons:  The Great PPS Comparison  366 Inks in 2016

 

Check out inks sorted by color:  Blue Purple Brown  Red Green Orange Black  Pinks  Yellows  Blue-Blacks Grey/Gray UVInks Turquoise/Teal


#13 Sandy1

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Posted 11 December 2012 - 13:56

Thank you!!


Hi,

You're welcome!

I also wanted to mention that I am unaware of fountain pens that are made of Mylar or aluminium. Their use here was requested, and was interpreted by me to be valid examples of materials that are not absorbent.

When NBBBl is used with plastics and metals commonly used for fountain pens, I would not be surprised if slightly different results were achieved, yet I speculate that much the same conclusions could be drawn.

Bye,
S1

The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire.







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