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Just Received My Twsbi Vac 700


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#101 ticoun

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Posted 02 May 2012 - 02:15

That's it, I couldn't wait any longer, I just placed an order for a Sapphire VAC 700 with a fine nib! :bunny01:
I'm so excited, the wait will be very hard!

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#102 etoyoc

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Posted 03 May 2012 - 00:10

Are you keeping the top open while writing?


Yes, and just to see if it made a difference, I tried it with the top closed. I have a Pilot Prera that has the same drag and skip issue. It never has worked out either. I just inked the Prera, and yes. it has the same feel to it which is why it has sat unused for so long.

Good idea from Jimmy.

On advice of our admin, Wim who ran the Stipula FPN pen group buy, as a way of carefully separating the slit to give better flow, I got a set of metal feeler gauges (less than $4) that start at .0015-inch (.038mm) and goes up to .025-inch (.635mm). They work great stepping your way up to gradually give wider separation. Also check placement of nib relative to feed.


I recently saw this post. I plan on picking up a new feeler gauge to see if it will help. The nib and feed look to be aligned properly.

Edit... sometimes it amazes me what you can get through Amazon, and with prime and free shipping, I will have that set you linked delivered sooner than I would have time to go buy it myself.


Just for an update, the new set of feeler gauges came in already, I removed .0015 to .004, scrubbed them down with soapy water to remove the major amount of oil. And proceeded to work through one gauge after another, then readjusting the nib alignment, and then testing. At .002 the Pilot Prera improved. At .003, the Vac 700 began to sing. Now we have a very wet line and a smooth, gliding nib. Too bad the F I ordered is writing more like a M, but eh... it will do, I just won't be able to use it on fine detail writing. Now, to clean off the feeler gauges, and soak in barbicide for a while (it has anti-rust properties) and to store in my pen tinkering box.
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#103 SamCapote

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Posted 03 May 2012 - 22:44

Are you keeping the top open while writing?


Yes, and just to see if it made a difference, I tried it with the top closed. I have a Pilot Prera that has the same drag and skip issue. It never has worked out either. I just inked the Prera, and yes. it has the same feel to it which is why it has sat unused for so long.

Good idea from Jimmy.

On advice of our admin, Wim who ran the Stipula FPN pen group buy, as a way of carefully separating the slit to give better flow, I got a set of metal feeler gauges (less than $4) that start at .0015-inch (.038mm) and goes up to .025-inch (.635mm). They work great stepping your way up to gradually give wider separation. Also check placement of nib relative to feed.


I recently saw this post. I plan on picking up a new feeler gauge to see if it will help. The nib and feed look to be aligned properly.

Edit... sometimes it amazes me what you can get through Amazon, and with prime and free shipping, I will have that set you linked delivered sooner than I would have time to go buy it myself.


Just for an update, the new set of feeler gauges came in already, I removed .0015 to .004, scrubbed them down with soapy water to remove the major amount of oil. And proceeded to work through one gauge after another, then readjusting the nib alignment, and then testing. At .002 the Pilot Prera improved. At .003, the Vac 700 began to sing. Now we have a very wet line and a smooth, gliding nib. Too bad the F I ordered is writing more like a M, but eh... it will do, I just won't be able to use it on fine detail writing. Now, to clean off the feeler gauges, and soak in barbicide for a while (it has anti-rust properties) and to store in my pen tinkering box.


Excellent news! Yeah, those gauges are drenched in oil for rust prevention. Barbicide...for rust prevention....hmmmm...never knew about that. Is this one the right one? Can you dry them off and the rust protection remains, or have to keep them in it?
With the new FPN rules, now I REALLY don't know what to put in my signature.

#104 etoyoc

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Posted 04 May 2012 - 01:25

Barbicide...for rust prevention....hmmmm...never knew about that. Is this one the right one?[/url] Can you dry them off and the rust protection remains, or have to keep them in it?


Yes, that is what I am talking about. I keep some diluted barbicide in my bathroom at home (for shaving equipment). However, it is cheaper to go to Sally Beauty Supply or a similar store and pick it up locally. I think that size bottle now runs about $8. I recently purchased a half gallon jug on sale for about $15. That gallon will last me probably 4 years. (it gets used on a 1:16 diluted ratio)

Most materials really shouldn't be kept in barbicide and just are supposed to get around a 10 minute soak. The 10 minutes is mostly to give enough contact time for the anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, and anti-viral agents to work. I do not know how long the anti-rust properties will work. I had the barbicide handy because I use it with my razors. They just get a short soak while I am cleaning up from the shave. It works well enough that carbon steel blades don't rust before they go dull; however, how long it will protect things from rusting, I couldn't say. I didn't want to have the gauges rust up without oil, so I figured I would try the barbicide. It may work, it may not. But I had some already and figured it was better than nothing.

Edited by etoyoc, 04 May 2012 - 01:29.

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#105 ravantra

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Posted 04 May 2012 - 02:43

Please explain what the attraction of this pen is. Really.


2) This is the only system that you can fill with only one hand.


Challenge accepted! I just filled my TWSBI 540 with one hand. :thumbup:
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#106 ticoun

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Posted 04 May 2012 - 02:58

Please explain what the attraction of this pen is. Really.


2) This is the only system that you can fill with only one hand.


Challenge accepted! I just filled my TWSBI 540 with one hand. :thumbup:

:roflmho:

-Eclipse Flat Top-|-Parker "51" Aero-|-Sheaffer's Snorkel Sentinel-|-Esterbrook SJ-|-Sheaffer Imperial II Deluxe TD-|-Sheaffer 330-|-Reform 1745-|-PenUsa Genesis-|-Hero 616-|-Noodler's Flex-|-Schneider Voice-|-TWSBI Vac 700-

Take a look at my DeviantART gallery!


#107 attika89

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Posted 04 May 2012 - 12:38

Angry_Panda, have you noticed any differences in line width between the two EF nibs (540vs700)?

Hopefully the Goulets will update their Nib Nook soon....

Edited by attika89, 04 May 2012 - 12:39.


#108 Greebe

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Posted 04 May 2012 - 23:15

Are you keeping the top open while writing?


Yes, and just to see if it made a difference, I tried it with the top closed. I have a Pilot Prera that has the same drag and skip issue. It never has worked out either. I just inked the Prera, and yes. it has the same feel to it which is why it has sat unused for so long.

Good idea from Jimmy.

On advice of our admin, Wim who ran the Stipula FPN pen group buy, as a way of carefully separating the slit to give better flow, I got a set of metal feeler gauges (less than $4) that start at .0015-inch (.038mm) and goes up to .025-inch (.635mm). They work great stepping your way up to gradually give wider separation. Also check placement of nib relative to feed.


I recently saw this post. I plan on picking up a new feeler gauge to see if it will help. The nib and feed look to be aligned properly.

Edit... sometimes it amazes me what you can get through Amazon, and with prime and free shipping, I will have that set you linked delivered sooner than I would have time to go buy it myself.


Just for an update, the new set of feeler gauges came in already, I removed .0015 to .004, scrubbed them down with soapy water to remove the major amount of oil. And proceeded to work through one gauge after another, then readjusting the nib alignment, and then testing. At .002 the Pilot Prera improved. At .003, the Vac 700 began to sing. Now we have a very wet line and a smooth, gliding nib. Too bad the F I ordered is writing more like a M, but eh... it will do, I just won't be able to use it on fine detail writing. Now, to clean off the feeler gauges, and soak in barbicide for a while (it has anti-rust properties) and to store in my pen tinkering box.


I don't think that I am tracking with what you are talking about. Are you just using the feeler guages to open the gap between the tines of the nib or are you using the feelers to widen the slit in the feed?

Thanks
Greebe
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#109 watch_art

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Posted 04 May 2012 - 23:21

Spread the tines apart. An xacto blade would be used to hack the feed.

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#110 ticoun

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Posted 04 May 2012 - 23:22

Are you keeping the top open while writing?


Yes, and just to see if it made a difference, I tried it with the top closed. I have a Pilot Prera that has the same drag and skip issue. It never has worked out either. I just inked the Prera, and yes. it has the same feel to it which is why it has sat unused for so long.

Good idea from Jimmy.

On advice of our admin, Wim who ran the Stipula FPN pen group buy, as a way of carefully separating the slit to give better flow, I got a set of metal feeler gauges (less than $4) that start at .0015-inch (.038mm) and goes up to .025-inch (.635mm). They work great stepping your way up to gradually give wider separation. Also check placement of nib relative to feed.


I recently saw this post. I plan on picking up a new feeler gauge to see if it will help. The nib and feed look to be aligned properly.

Edit... sometimes it amazes me what you can get through Amazon, and with prime and free shipping, I will have that set you linked delivered sooner than I would have time to go buy it myself.


Just for an update, the new set of feeler gauges came in already, I removed .0015 to .004, scrubbed them down with soapy water to remove the major amount of oil. And proceeded to work through one gauge after another, then readjusting the nib alignment, and then testing. At .002 the Pilot Prera improved. At .003, the Vac 700 began to sing. Now we have a very wet line and a smooth, gliding nib. Too bad the F I ordered is writing more like a M, but eh... it will do, I just won't be able to use it on fine detail writing. Now, to clean off the feeler gauges, and soak in barbicide for a while (it has anti-rust properties) and to store in my pen tinkering box.


I don't think that I am tracking with what you are talking about. Are you just using the feeler guages to open the gap between the tines of the nib or are you using the feelers to widen the slit in the feed?

Thanks
Greebe

It's to widen the nib slit.

-Eclipse Flat Top-|-Parker "51" Aero-|-Sheaffer's Snorkel Sentinel-|-Esterbrook SJ-|-Sheaffer Imperial II Deluxe TD-|-Sheaffer 330-|-Reform 1745-|-PenUsa Genesis-|-Hero 616-|-Noodler's Flex-|-Schneider Voice-|-TWSBI Vac 700-

Take a look at my DeviantART gallery!


#111 Nic13

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 15:14

Do you guys want me to ink it up with J. Herbin 1670 like my diamond 540 is inked with? They both are extra fine. I could also compare it to my Micarta but it has Noodler's Turquoise EEL in it and I just filled it? Let me know and I will post some about it tomorrow with some pictures.


I'd be really interested in the 540 EF vs Vac 700 EF :thumbup:


I would Like to see this as well, might be just what i need to convince me to buy one :roflmho:

#112 StipulaLamy

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 17:27

Do you guys want me to ink it up with J. Herbin 1670 like my diamond 540 is inked with? They both are extra fine. I could also compare it to my Micarta but it has Noodler's Turquoise EEL in it and I just filled it? Let me know and I will post some about it tomorrow with some pictures.


I'd be really interested in the 540 EF vs Vac 700 EF :thumbup:


I would Like to see this as well, might be just what i need to convince me to buy one :roflmho:


I have the 540 and 700 in EF & the 700 is better hands down than my 540. No cracks so far, my 540 had a crack in the first couple of days. And the 700 is dramatically smoother than my 540.

#113 imahawki

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 20:28

I bought the Saphire in Fine and the Amber in Extra Fine. I can't wait for my order to arrive.

#114 Scylax

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Posted 05 May 2012 - 21:08

Mine arrived from TWD this morning, but I won't be able to ink them until tomorrow :( They look gorgeous, though, and I can't wait to use them! :puddle:

#115 sternlight

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 09:02

Got my Vac 700 in Sapohire today. Here's the deal on filling: you need to have the end of the section well covered by ink. Because of the size of the nib, most bottles either need to be pretty full, or have a very deep reservoir insert. I've looked at MontBlanc, Namiki, Edelstein, Penman and TWSBI 540 (with filler cap removed) bottles. They all give a partial fill. The Pilot (not Namiki) bottle reservoir is very deep and gives a good fill. Until we get a TWSBI 700 bottle, either use pretty full ordinary bottles or the Pilot with reservoir insert. Pilot Blue ink looks very good (closest water-resistant ink I've found to the old Penman Sapphire) and the bottle works well with its odd globular design and deep well insert.

Mine also skips on initial upstrokes of n. m. e until it gets going. Perhaps it's nib QC; I've emailed TWSBI for a replacement nib.

The size is close to a Pelikan 1000. It's definitely an executive's pen, especially when the cap is posted.

Other than the above-mentioned skipping on startup initial upstrokes, it writes like a dream, and the flow is good with a fine point. It's not at all a dry writer.

To my taste the matte clip is attractive and not at all jarring with the other, glossy accoutrements.

I also own a Pilot 823 vacuum fill, but the TWSBI is less stodgy and more fun.
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#116 amberleadavis

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 10:10

So, uh, I've used mine for about two days now.

First, my faithful sidekick, Cinnamin, had trouble with hers (the sapphire) refusing to write. (Yeah, she's in the same office so I assume it's an Amber problem). We reinked it. What she HATES is that the ink looks like it's separating. (The ink isn't actually separating, but it is spotting along the plastic like hard water spots). I'm assuming that this is the nature of the vacuum fill. What say you all?



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#117 amberleadavis

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 10:11

Got my Vac 700 in Sapohire today. Here's the deal on filling: you need to have the end of the section well covered by ink. Because of the size of the nib, most bottles either need to be pretty full, or have a very deep reservoir insert. I've looked at MontBlanc, Namiki, Edelstein, Penman and TWSBI 540 (with filler cap removed) bottles. They all give a partial fill. The Pilot (not Namiki) bottle reservoir is very deep and gives a good fill. Until we get a TWSBI 700 bottle, either use pretty full ordinary bottles or the Pilot with reservoir insert. Pilot Blue ink looks very good (closest water-resistant ink I've found to the old Penman Sapphire) and the bottle works well with its odd globular design and deep well insert.


I found the Noodler's bottle to fill easily. Also, super easy fill with the 5ml ink sample vials.

#118 imahawki

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 11:48

I filled my Amber with J. Herbin 1670. It went fine for the first fill but I will have to decant ink for future fills. The neck of the bottle is too small :( This is a first for me and I wonder why ANYONE would make a bottle with such a small opening.

#119 Amandaa

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 12:37

I received mine over the weekend and didn't even test it. Entirely too large and uncomfortable in my hand. It would have been fine if the grip was smaller, but just wasn't going to work for me unfortunately. Back it went.

#120 imahawki

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Posted 09 May 2012 - 15:33

Interesting. I've yet to find a pen that I find uncomfortable at all let alone to the point I wouldn't use it.




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