How To Clean A Clogged Inlaid Nib?

[primitivepete]

Any ideas? got a sheaffer that just doesn't want to play. I tried soaking it and plunging it out with one of those baby booger things. It still does not want to take water from the converter through to the nib.

[jar]

Does it work using a Sheaffer Cartridge?

[JonSzanto]

Just for completeness, what model pen? If you've really done a good job soaking (assuming a little ammonia, overnight, etc), then I'd suggest first trying a soak in something like J. B.'s Pen Flush, and if that doesn't do the trick I would give the entire section/nib unit a ride in an ultrasonic cleaner.

[primitivepete]

Thanks guys, a little more junk comes out which each soak, so I'll keep trying. I think it's a cheaper 330 model designed to look like the Imperials.

[rogerzilla]

IME ammoniated water, left overnight, shifts any ink deposits.

[primitivepete]

sincere thanks to whoever posted this video:

 

There were all kinds of chunkies down inside the feed. I think someone tried it with India ink at some point.

 

Now comes the tricky part...can I put it back together!?

[primitivepete]

went back together just fine and water flows through to the nib now. I'll try it with ink next, but I think I'm in the clear.

[SmoutKa]

Lol, I see I missed out on your topic. Went through this only yesterday

If your pen was the 550, and the particles were red and hard, then there has been a serious quality problem in the factury back in the 80ies.

 

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php?/topic/217944-sheaffer-triumph-and-imperial-feed-dismantling/

 

By the way: how did you manage to screw it all back together? I had to use quite some force, and even then it should be possible to screw it tighter.

[primitivepete]

Writing fine now.

 

My feed piece looked a little different than in the video...it had the small tube thing attached to part of the feed. But it had dried chunks of black ink clogging up the works.

 

It seemed to screw back together just fine. I had to give it a good strong twist to get the section part to flush up against the rest of the barrel, but other than that, no problems.

 

I really like the way it writes. It has a nice fine line that is still relatively wet, and even though it doesn't flex any, it shows some line variation just by how fast you write or how long you leave the nib on the paper. Pretty smooth too with no hints of scratchiness, but it does have a certain feel that isn't quite like some of my smoother nibs...not friction, exactly, but a certain rub. Very nice. It might bother some people, but I kinda like it. Kind of reminds me of the squeakiness of a few iridium tipped Esterbrook nibs.

 

By the way, for the heat to get the nib section to come apart, I microwaved a small ziploc with some uncooked rice in it for 45 seconds or so, then wrapped it around. Works great on getting almost any stuck section out of the barrel of an old pen, too. It may also work when screwing the nib section back in, as well...a little heat would make the plastic expand a bit, making it a little easier, but I didn't have to do much other than tighten it by hand.

Edited April 5, 2012 by primitivepete

[OcalaFlGuy]

By the way, for the heat to get the nib section to come apart, I microwaved a small ziploc with some uncooked rice in it for 45 seconds or so, then wrapped it around. Works great on getting almost any stuck section out of the barrel of an old pen, too. It may also work when screwing the nib section back in, as well...a little heat would make the plastic expand a bit, making it a little easier, but I didn't have to do much other than tighten it by hand.

 

That is ingenious.

 

 

Bruce in Ocala, FL

[primitivepete]

Thanks, but I can't really claim credit...learned it from someone on this forum. Can't remember who.

[ticoun]

By the way, for the heat to get the nib section to come apart, I microwaved a small ziploc with some uncooked rice in it for 45 seconds or so, then wrapped it around. Works great on getting almost any stuck section out of the barrel of an old pen, too. It may also work when screwing the nib section back in, as well...a little heat would make the plastic expand a bit, making it a little easier, but I didn't have to do much other than tighten it by hand.

I'll try this on my 330. It needs to be cleaned, but I just can't get the dang thing unscrewed. I was a bit scared of overheating it, but with this trick I might be able to open it. Tons of huge dried ink flakes come out of this pen when I use JB's perfect pen flush, but the flow is still too dry, better than before though.

[Sandy1]

Hi,

 

I find the 330/440/444 series and Targa sections are reluctant to release the last vestiges of ink when flushing from the ink reservoir end of the section. I found that 'back flushing' from the nib toward the reservoir does the trick.

 

I use soft [surgical] plastic tubing to fit over the nib, forming a seal at the grip, then run a siphon from a large vessel of water. (The same rig is used to gently flush capillary feed Parker 61s - from the capillary end to the nib - not back flush.)

 

Especially if 'chunks' are encountered, I find back flushing is the way to go whenever possible. Clearly, disassembling the pen is great for initial 'deep cleaning' of unrestored / neglected pens.

 

Please also note that Member pharmacist has provided us with enhanced cleansing procedures for I-G inks, Post #271 LINK.

 

Bye,

S1

Edited April 6, 2012 by Sandy1

[primitivepete]

ooohh...never thought of hooking a pen up to a siphon...I like that idea.

[SmoutKa]

I found the same. Although my method is simpler. After normal flushing, I take a mouthfull of water, and 'spit' it through, holding the section in my mouth. Since the outside of section and nib are prefectly clean by then, no ink comes in my mouth.

 

 

Hi,

 

I find the 330/440/444 series and Targa sections are reluctant to release the last vestiges of ink when flushing from the ink reservoir end of the section. I found that 'back flushing' from the nib toward the reservoir does the trick.

 

I use soft [surgical] plastic tubing to fit over the nib, forming a seal at the grip, then run a siphon from a large vessel of water. (The same rig is used to gently flush capillary feed Parker 61s - from the capillary end to the nib - not back flush.)

 

Especially if 'chunks' are encountered, I find back flushing is the way to go whenever possible. Clearly, disassembling the pen is great for initial 'deep cleaning' of unrestored / neglected pens.

 

Please also note that Member pharmacist has provided us with enhanced cleansing procedures for I-G inks, Post #271 LINK.

 

Bye,

S1

[Chrissy]

By the way, for the heat to get the nib section to come apart, I microwaved a small ziploc with some uncooked rice in it for 45 seconds or so, then wrapped it around. Works great on getting almost any stuck section out of the barrel of an old pen, too. It may also work when screwing the nib section back in, as well...a little heat would make the plastic expand a bit, making it a little easier, but I didn't have to do much other than tighten it by hand.

 

That is ingenious.

 

 

Bruce in Ocala, FL

It is ingenious.

 

I wonder if heating my lavender wheat wrap in the microwave then wrapping a pen in it would work as well as a bag of uncooked rice?

Edited April 6, 2012 by Chrissy

[ticoun]

By the way, for the heat to get the nib section to come apart, I microwaved a small ziploc with some uncooked rice in it for 45 seconds or so, then wrapped it around. Works great on getting almost any stuck section out of the barrel of an old pen, too. It may also work when screwing the nib section back in, as well...a little heat would make the plastic expand a bit, making it a little easier, but I didn't have to do much other than tighten it by hand.

 

That is ingenious.

 

 

Bruce in Ocala, FL

It is ingenious.

 

I wonder if heating my lavender wheat wrap in the microwave then wrapping a pen in it would work as well as a bag of uncooked rice?

Should work as well, but you will need to heat he wrap longer because of the greater quantity of grain.

Edited April 7, 2012 by ticoun

[spaceink]

Just wanted to chime in, way after, that the rice method truly worked for me. Wrapped up my Imperial section and let the heat do its thing for less than 10-15 seconds, and was then quickly able to unscrew the metal part out. Thanks for posting.

 

And oh, for those who might attempt this method, do it over a clear surface so you can be careful that you don't lose the rubber and metal rings that easily fall out.

[ac12]

And be VERY VERY careful that you do not break off the tail of the feed. Been there, done that. I was a very unhappy camper when that happened.

Edited July 15, 2015 by ac12

[mitto]

Great thread , great information.