Inset Nib On The Namiki Silvern- Removing And Re-Sealing

[hari317]

One more question? I now noticed a thread from a few months before you started this thread. In it member zanio says the original adhesive can be softened with a hairdrier to aid removal. Did you try that?

 

https://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/index.php/topic/204044-questions-about-namiki-sterling-silvern-art-craft/?do=findComment&comment=2098980

he talks of a custom series pen. I have not tried heat, but if you feel like, try and let us know.

Edited June 28, 2014 by hari317

[gregglee]

Thanks.

 

I considered the heating comment relevant because Custom model inset nib is very similar. 8mm wide rather than 9mm on Silvern / Sterling, but essentially the same shape. Picture of Custom below is clipped from an ebay listing. On the other hand Customs were made 1970s to early 80s, so the adhesive selection could have been changed by 1996.

 

Custom Sterling Crosshatch

 

Regarding your suggestion of John Mottishaw, I had already checked with nibs.com. He can likely do the repair work based on pictures in repair example gallery, which includes a Pilot inset nib, which mentions resetting as part of the repair. But his repair queue for pens not originally sold by them is over six months. So I was looking for other alternatives. nibs.com examples at http://www.nibs.com/beforeandafter.htm then scroll down.

 

The times on my pen are aligned. It writes, but not satisfactorily.

[jde]

Reviving Hari's thread to give public thanks for it.

 

One of my favorite pens, a Namiki Sterling Turtle, had the ink leaching problem at the tail of the nib just as Hari described.

 

I've forgotten how long ago this happened—maybe 2 years ago? I followed his instructions, but used Gorilla Glue 2-Part epoxy because that was all I could seem to find locally.

 

I don't know if I did a poor glue job, or if the epoxy itself was just not very good. Several weeks ago my nib started leaching again at the tail end of the nib. Then a week ago, the nib just came off when I uncapped my pen.

 

This time (and thank you Hari for holding my hand a little) I used a DevCon 2-Part (5 minute) epoxy that several folks here on FPN recommended. (Easily found at my local Dollar store.)

 

The first time attempting this fix was scary, and I wonder if I was a little timid in using the epoxy. This time I made sure to apply plenty at the end where the tail sits on the section. (Being careful about the feed in the section and the slit on the nib. I'm feeling pretty good about my fix this time around.

 

So far all is well! The pen is back writing, and no inky fingers for moi. I'm always grateful when people like Hari post these kinds of instructions. Not everyone will want to attempt a fix of this sort, but for those of who want to, it is a great kindness and education.

 

Cheers, my dears,

Julie

 

Before and after photos:

 

 

 

 

[hari317]

Thanks Jde.

[Left FPN]

Again reviving this very old thread, I too am moving away from GS Hypo cement and have been looking for a more favorable adhesive.

 

The original adhesive used by Waterman on the Carene range has a soft feel to it so I have tried but failed to find anything, in the public domain, that would be similar.

 

Most adhesives now are of the cyano' type which I want to stay away from.

 

I too may try the standard (24 hour) 2 part epoxy cement on my latest nib fixes.

[hari317]

Since the original pictures are now missing thanks to PB, I frequently get requests for the pictures from people faced with leaking nibs. I have now created a pdf file of the original post along with the pictures and updates. Pls feel free to download it at the following link.

 

Inset Nib On The Namiki Silvern.pdf

Edited February 26, 2018 by hari317

[stan]

Recently removed and reset a nib from a Pilot Silvern.

 

You do not need a hair dryer of any heat.

 

Tools:

X-Acto Knife

Dental Floss

Household type gel epoxy (Never cyano- anything)

Round toothpicks (the flat break too easily)

 

1. Take your dental floss and inset under nib and gently floss under your nib.

2. When the floss has moved up to where the nib clips on the side of the section take your X-Acto knife and gently pry up one of the two clipped sides.

3. Continue flossing under the nib. It will eventually give.

4. Clean the section and underside of the the nib thoroughly. This means removal of ALL of the existing adhesive.

5. On some models/nibs there is a pinhole or recess in the section where the peak of the nib sits. Take the tip of your X-Acto knife and clean out the old glue from this area.

6. Test fit the nib and remove. Your nib should be flush with the section. If not, it usually means the area under the peak of the nib has not been correctly cleaned out. Repeat.

7. Apply epoxy to the section. Do not get any on the rectangular area that appears to hold a pad. Leave a little area with no epoxy around this area.

8. Install the nib from the peak down and ensure it is clipped on the side.

9. I suggest rolling the nib against smooth flat surface like aluminum foil or glass to ensure the glue is squished all over.

10. Using a toothpick remove any glue that has squished out the sides.

11. Take whatever pen cleaner you use and rub the edges where the nib meets the section. This will remove anything you left over.

 

It's a ten minute job.

[rutherfordr]

How did you get the dried glue out of the section?

 

Did you chip away at it gently with the x-acto knife?

[stan]

How did you get the dried glue out of the section?

 

Did you chip away at it gently with the x-acto knife?

 

The dried glue will come up with an X-Acto knife. If it is the original adhesive, it should come off fairly easily. The cyano-stuff is much harder to remove.

Take your time and try very hard not to remove any section.

 

You want a smooth clean looking section to apply the epoxy and nib.

[sndeshpande]

Moral of the story - stay away from pens having inset nibs?

[stan]

Not necessary. Slip some floss under the nib and it comes right up. You will need an Exacto knife or similar to lift one of the sides off the section.

 

Why is anyone making this so complicated. It is not rocket science and there are no elaborate procedures or techniques.

[hari317]

Moral of the story - stay away from pens having inset nibs?

every pen needs some or the other kind of repair. Some inset nibs need repair and they can be repaired quite easily after you have done a few as Stan (peerless1) says. With inlaid nibs on the other hand you have no recourse except hope that captain trolleys seals the leak.

[KingsCountyWriter]

To continue a revision of this informative post, is there a way to get a pdf with all of the photos? One was created by OP previously, but that no longer exists and I think it's something that I'd like to personally archive.

 

The Pilot Custom Black Stripes that I have are all over 40 years old and there's a couple that I'd like to remove the nib and replace the adhesive. This post makes me very comfortable, from Hari's initial findings to Peerless1's direct listing.

 

Obviously this goes for all postings that someone might want to archive. Is there a good way to do it? Photos and all?

[hari317]

To continue a revision of this informative post, is there a way to get a pdf with all of the photos? One was created by OP previously, but that no longer exists and I think it's something that I'd like to personally archive.

 

The Pilot Custom Black Stripes that I have are all over 40 years old and there's a couple that I'd like to remove the nib and replace the adhesive. This post makes me very comfortable, from Hari's initial findings to Peerless1's direct listing.

 

Obviously this goes for all postings that someone might want to archive. Is there a good way to do it? Photos and all?

Here is the pdf

 

 

https://ia800106.us.archive.org/26/items/InsetNibOnTheNamikiSilvern/Inset%20Nib%20On%20The%20Namiki%20Silvern.pdf

[CraigN]

Hari,

 

Thank you for reposting the information. I have two Pilot pens with inset nibs. Both function well, but I may find one some day that will leak ink at the nib.

 

Regards,

Craig

[KingsCountyWriter]

Thanks for the pdf Hari. Those 9 pages will be helpful in the long run.