Jump to content

Ahab Pen - Opening Up Fin Vents - With Photos


SamCapote

Recommended Posts

With all the people wondering and perhaps getting less than optimal flow, I decided to take one of my feeds out and modify the top fin vents (the side under the nib) to open them up for a juicy flow. I used an X-acto #11 blade which are VERY sharp. You could use a utility knife or a single side razor blade, but it must be new/sharp so you are cutting the hard rubber ebonite, rather than crushing it. This material is harder than the rubber on a tire or even those Rubbermaid dish draining platforms, but softer than plastics. GO SLOW, as once it's cut, you better be happy with it.

You should have some sort of magnifier to see the details for optimal results. I like using a Donegan Head set with #4 magnifier lens. You look pretty cool wearing these around the house. :embarrassed_smile: I placed the feed on a hard surface and made the cut straight down at a slight angle which you can see.

 

Here is the before image appearance, and also my nib/feed placement in the pen section holder. (click on these thumbnails)

 

Notice in the "before" image of the feed that many of the vents do not go all the way into the top longitudinal center channel. In contrast all of the vents on both sides are fully cut and open into the bottom center channel.

 

I don't know if this is important, as there seems to be a nice "puddle" of ink surrounding all around the nib and feed before I did any modification, but if I wrote repeated long lines while flexing down, eventually I would get railroading, followed by a period of stopped ink flow which I wanted to fix. This also shows how the top vents are not EXACTLY lined up across from each other as they are on the bottom. Obviously, these are hand cut, and I doubt it matters.

 

 

 

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h75/pike444/pens/Ahab/IMAG0177s.jpg

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h75/pike444/pens/Ahab/IMAG0180s.jpg

 

 

Now I did just a couple of vent enlargements. This was very easy and quick to do. You can even note my time stamps on the photos if you are interested which was real time. I wanted to go easy and test it. I am using Noodler's new Purple Heart ink exclusive from Goulet Pens which I love the color and symbolism of it.

 

 

 

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h75/pike444/pens/Ahab/IMAG0178s.jpg

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h75/pike444/pens/Ahab/IMAG0179s.jpg

 

You have to make sure you gently use either the back of the blade, or a toothpick to clean out any loose pieces of ebonite. I also blasted with a couple shots of canned compressed air. I also rinsed the feed under faucet and used my dog's (old) toothbrush to clean out the vents. Once I refilled with ink, I saw an improvement, but still needed a bit more ink juice to be happy. So I took it out and cut these, and the result was PERFECT. Exactly the wet, juicy flow with no railroading that I was seeking. Also no drops coming out, but I could see that much more hacking and it might become a dripper.

 

One other tip before I refilled it after the cuts below, I pressed the nib tip from reverse side to bend the nib down just a hair so it had better contact with the feed, after all my aggressive flex testing. That made a big difference too. This final view shows what works magnificently after writing 3 pages of text and doodles with no problems.

 

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h75/pike444/pens/Ahab/IMAG0181s.jpg

 

 

 

This is a thumbnail to show the before and after I enlarged the feed vent slits. You can see some variations where I tried lifting my nib. Please understand that I have not yet spent any time on my penmanship or lettering quality. As I write more (beyond this photo), I am finding it is easier to use the wetter modified feed, because it requires less down pressure to flex, so I can lift it to recover to a finer stroke.

 

 

 

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h75/pike444/pens/Ahab/IMG_1474s.jpg

 

.

Edited by SamCapote

With the new FPN rules, now I REALLY don't know what to put in my signature.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 29
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • SamCapote

    6

  • JonB55198

    3

  • tenney

    2

  • Honeybadgers

    2

Thanks for this instruction! In Nathan's video about the Ahab he mentions that people may want to modify the feed channels for more flow and I was wondering if anyone would attempt this. I'm left feeling I can if I want!

...writing only requires focus, and something to write on. —John August

...and a pen that's comfortable in the hand.—moi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Sam, This is an AWESOME how-to! This should answer bunches of questions people are having!

Increase your IQ, use Linux AND a Fountain pen!!http://i276.photobucket.com/albums/kk11/79spitfire/Neko_animated.gif
http://fedoraproject.org/w/uploads/5/50/Fedorabutton-iusefedora.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for doing this work for us Sam. I wish we could purchase loose feeds from Noodler's in case we get over enthusiastic with our modifications.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sam,

Thanks for posting this. I have 3 ahabs so i will try this with one of them :-)

 

-Jon

WTT: Conklin Nozac Cursive Italic & Edison Beaumont Broad for Pelikan M1000 or Something Cool (PM me to discuss. It's part of my One Red Fountain Pen trading post)

WTB: 1. Camlin SD

2. 1950s to early 1960s 1st Gen MB 149 with BB nib

3. Airmail 90T Teal Swirl

4. PenBBS 355-16SF Demonstrator

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I recommend just starting with 2 or 3 slit enlargements, then you have to write with it for a while so you get to a stable ink level after the fresh filling excess in the nib/feed gets used up. If you are in no hurry, even let it sit overnight and check it again before opening up more.

 

I say this in part because there seems to be some variability between nibs/feeds, and if your feed starts with already having the top slits cut all the way through into the center channel, you may need less that I did.

 

I believe once the dust settles from all this that some of these replacement parts may be made available--correlating with actual pen purchases (vs. modders grabbing larger quantities for their own pen versions to be resold at higher prices).

Edited by SamCapote

With the new FPN rules, now I REALLY don't know what to put in my signature.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sam, just a quick question, did you lose the very fine line capability of the non modified nib?

 

I'd like to know this too Sam :)

WTT: Conklin Nozac Cursive Italic & Edison Beaumont Broad for Pelikan M1000 or Something Cool (PM me to discuss. It's part of my One Red Fountain Pen trading post)

WTB: 1. Camlin SD

2. 1950s to early 1960s 1st Gen MB 149 with BB nib

3. Airmail 90T Teal Swirl

4. PenBBS 355-16SF Demonstrator

Link to comment
Share on other sites

No I did not lose it. Used the same notepad as I wrote yesterday which was trying to show continuous thick writing without skipping or railroading, and now below my cyan line, the first time using it today. I can get an even finer line. I think it is because the overall flow has improved, I can use a very light stroke, but then if I want to press it, I can still get the thicker line. (thumbnail)

 

 

 

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h75/pike444/pens/Ahab/IMG_1475s.jpg

With the new FPN rules, now I REALLY don't know what to put in my signature.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

At this past weekend's pen posse a few people said that to stop railroading of my Ahab the channel, and not the fins, needed to be deepened. It seems that by cutting the fins you've increased the flow. Is that correct?

--

Glenn (love those pen posses)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

At this past weekend's pen posse a few people said that to stop railroading of my Ahab the channel, and not the fins, needed to be deepened. It seems that by cutting the fins you've increased the flow. Is that correct?

 

Yes. And if they said that, they did not read the enclosed brochure, or look at Nathan's photos.

 

My enlarging the fin vents was both from having spoken with Nathan, and it being printed on his instruction brochure pointing out the specific vents to enlarge. That brochure also does say you can enlarge/deepen the center channel, and I'm not sure how to compare results from the two methods.

 

One thing is for sure, with the typical modern plastic nib used by 99.999% of modern pen makers, the mainstay feed custom modding technique is deepening/widening the center channel, so people are used to that method. It also requires a lot more force cutting down into plastic, and easier to cause more damage than you intended. Having an inexpensive ebonite feed introduces all the other more delicate ways of being able to carve it for the desired result. Slicing down the corners of the fin vents like I did was quick, easy to control, and I could see the degree of enlargement more clearly than trying to guess what I am digging out of the center channel. Reminder again to use a new, sharp X-acto blade or single edge safety razor so you get easy, clean cuts. I think an old utility knife blade may not give an ideal result.

Edited by SamCapote

With the new FPN rules, now I REALLY don't know what to put in my signature.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks for the answer Sam :)

WTT: Conklin Nozac Cursive Italic & Edison Beaumont Broad for Pelikan M1000 or Something Cool (PM me to discuss. It's part of my One Red Fountain Pen trading post)

WTB: 1. Camlin SD

2. 1950s to early 1960s 1st Gen MB 149 with BB nib

3. Airmail 90T Teal Swirl

4. PenBBS 355-16SF Demonstrator

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, Sam. So the fins you cut based on the pics are those on which the nib "sits" rather than the fins visible looking at the nib in-pen. Do you think one could (shouldn't?) remove the nib assembly to cut the fins with the pen inked but fixed nib-up? I'd think that would make it much faster and easier to tweak-check-repeat.

--

Glenn (love those pen posses)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Jon, most welcome!

 

Thanks, Sam. So the fins you cut based on the pics are those on which the nib "sits" rather than the fins visible looking at the nib in-pen.

 

Correct.

 

Do you think one could (shouldn't?) remove the nib assembly to cut the fins with the pen inked but fixed nib-up? I'd think that would make it much faster and easier to tweak-check-repeat.

 

I think you could remove the nib/feed holding nib pen up, but my guess is the suction/force of removing it would result in a serious ink splatter risk. I find it easiest to pull the nib/feed out holding my arms/pen horizontal. Doing it vertically, I'm almost sure I would be wearing a blue ink face. :roflmho:

 

Unlike any other pen I have used, these plungers are so quick and easy to empty and refill, that it's not worth getting ink all over. You have to rinse/brush/blow the feed after you are done working on it to get all the pieces cleaned off, and I think it is beneficial to freshly draw up the ink with the double stroke. It also eliminates any water dilution that will be in some of the slits.

With the new FPN rules, now I REALLY don't know what to put in my signature.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Jon, most welcome!

 

I think you could remove the nib/feed holding nib pen up, but my guess is the suction/force of removing it would result in a serious ink splatter risk. I find it easiest to pull the nib/feed out holding my arms/pen horizontal. Doing it vertically, I'm almost sure I would be wearing a blue ink face. :roflmho:

 

I've removed the nib and feed repeatedly on the Ahab and other Noodler's pens while adjusting ink flow, and I've never been splattered with ink. I keep the nib end up so that ink won't run out of the pen while the nib and feed are removed. Tilting the nib end up somewhere between 45 and 90 degrees from horizontal should be fine, and I just use whatever angle feels comfortable when I grab the nib and feed.

 

Do it at the kitchen sink and just yank the nib and feed out, then rinse them off so you can see what you're doing. Meanwhile, leave the pen, open end (nib and section end) up in a tumbler, jar, or glass while you work on the feed.

 

You may have to work the filler back and forth a bit when you get the nib and feed back in so that ink will flow. I usually follow this by putting the tip of the nib on a piece of paper towel to draw out some ink. Hopefully, this will draw out any ink that is diluted and get you to full-strength ink.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Most Contributions

    1. amberleadavis
      amberleadavis
      43844
    2. PAKMAN
      PAKMAN
      33501
    3. Ghost Plane
      Ghost Plane
      28220
    4. inkstainedruth
      inkstainedruth
      26627
    5. jar
      jar
      26101
  • Upcoming Events

  • Blog Comments

    • Shanghai Knife Dude
      I have the Sailor Naginata and some fancy blade nibs coming after 2022 by a number of new workshop from China.  With all my respect, IMHO, they are all (bleep) in doing chinese characters.  Go use a bush, or at least a bush pen. 
    • A Smug Dill
      It is the reason why I'm so keen on the idea of a personal library — of pens, nibs, inks, paper products, etc. — and spent so much money, as well as time and effort, to “build” it for myself (because I can't simply remember everything, especially as I'm getting older fast) and my wife, so that we can “know”; and, instead of just disposing of what displeased us, or even just not good enough to be “given the time of day” against competition from >500 other pens and >500 other inks for our at
    • adamselene
      Agreed.  And I think it’s good to be aware of this early on and think about at the point of buying rather than rationalizing a purchase..
    • A Smug Dill
      Alas, one cannot know “good” without some idea of “bad” against which to contrast; and, as one of my former bosses (back when I was in my twenties) used to say, “on the scale of good to bad…”, it's a spectrum, not a dichotomy. Whereas subjectively acceptable (or tolerable) and unacceptable may well be a dichotomy to someone, and finding whether the threshold or cusp between them lies takes experiencing many degrees of less-than-ideal, especially if the decision is somehow influenced by factors o
    • adamselene
      I got my first real fountain pen on my 60th birthday and many hundreds of pens later I’ve often thought of what I should’ve known in the beginning. I have many pens, the majority of which have some objectionable feature. If they are too delicate, or can’t be posted, or they are too precious to face losing , still they are users, but only in very limited environments..  I have a big disliking for pens that have the cap jump into the air and fly off. I object to Pens that dry out, or leave blobs o
  • Chatbox

    You don't have permission to chat.
    Load More
  • Files






×
×
  • Create New...