"lubricated" Ink. Anything To It.

[Bill Wood]

Some of my medium nibs are just fine on the cheaper paper we use at work, but I've just noticed that some of my medium-fine nibs, a couple of Sailors, really need to get pushed across the paper rather a nice smooth glide. I've heard a few things about inks with some 'lubrication' in the formula. Some have it, and some don't - and I'm just wondering has found any big difference in some of the 'lubricated' inks compared to - lets say - a benchmark Waterman Blue/Black. Thanks all.

[PAKMAN]

I tried a lubricating ink once but the pen kept sliding off the page!

 

Actually I think I read somewhere that the lubrication was for the piston?

[torstar]

I'm convinced the Noodler's Eel inks are giving a better flow from my stubborn pens.

[JLT]

I tried a lubricating ink once but the pen kept sliding off the page!

 

Actually I think I read somewhere that the lubrication was for the piston?

 

Some inks, like the Noodler's American Eel series, are intended for use in piston fillers for precisely that purpose. The higher lubricity also affects the writing experience and many folks use them for this ancillary property.

 

Anything to it? I'd say there is. I have American Eel Blue in regular rotation and my piston fillers get a drink of it every second or third fill. It keeps the innards properly slicked up and one can feel the difference, albeit slight sometimes, on the page. The downside? Eel Blue is not waterproof - not even water-resistant - in any way.

 

Nano-pigment inks are generally thought of as having lubricating properties. I have very limited experience with these inks but they do feel smoother than most dye-based inks. Their slickness is a consequence of the nano-pigment particles themselves, acting like tiny ball bearings between the nib and the paper's surface. These inks will feel slicker on paper but won't do a thing for a piston filler's internals.

[welch]

Many inks are "lubricating" in that they are wet, cause the nib to glide across the page. Noodler's Eel is supposed to lubricate pistons, although I cannot say if it does. I did find that Blue Eel was very wet, took a long time to dry.

 

The most lubricating ink of all time, of course, was Parker Quink WITH Solv-X, a magical ingredient that cleaned you pen as you wrote. Unfortunately, Solv-X was pulled from the Quink formula years ago, so you will have to trust us...

[KCat]

JLT has nailed the info on the Noodler's Eels. I like it in terms of how it makes a XXXF nib feel but it will take a good time to dry on papers like Rhodia and such because it doesn't soak in as well. I'm not sure that's the lubrication or the high dye content, though.

 

There are other inks that seem to have significant lubricity compared to the standards. The new Iroshizukus are very slick in my experience. I haven't tried all of them but the Tsuki yo, Ku jaku, Tsukushi and Yama budo are all on my shelf and all behave the same. Extremely smooth inks by comparison to most. I still find Waterman to be plenty lubricating for most pens and a quality ink, of course. I used it for years. Diamine as well. But admit to finding the "Iros" impressive in this regard. But man are they expensive here in the US. I understand in Japan they're not much different than other ink brands (cost wise).

 

Noodler's varies throughout. Not only the Eel series has nice lubrication it's just that the Eel inks are specifically for piston lubrication. Since I don't use it *for* that purpose,I can't comment on that function. I happen to like the color and like how it feels between nib and paper.

[Yoda4561]

Just wanted to add that if the tines are even slightly misaligned, the scratchyness that results will overwhelm most any ink's inherent lubricity.

[Bill Wood]

Thanks all. Anybody hear of Glycerin to lubricate ?? Apparently this was a trick that a Noodlers Manufacturer used. I wonder if it helps flow? 3 drops of pure Glycerin to 1 ounce of ink. I'd like to try it. I've found that soap is not the best for increasing the flow of inks.

[JLT]

Thanks all. Anybody hear of Glycerin to lubricate ?? Apparently this was a trick that a Noodlers Manufacturer used. I wonder if it helps flow? 3 drops of pure Glycerin to 1 ounce of ink. I'd like to try it. I've found that soap is not the best for increasing the flow of inks.

 

Glycerin is a commonly-used surfactant and one can use the food-grade stuff available in pharmacies and some specialty food stores without any contamination concerns. Common dish detergent (NOT soap) may also be used.

 

What one tends to get when one increases the amount of surfactant in a solution is greater rate of flow, not necessarily greater lubrication, although it is a reasonable expectation that greater rate of flow will reduce mechanical friction. That is true only to a certain point. Too much surfactant is just that - too much. The rate of flow can be increased to a point beyond which it can no longer be managed at the point of contact, i.e. the nib on the page, and what you get is pooling and blobbing with no incremental reduction in mechanical friction. The point here is that surfactants should be added gradually, a very small amount at a time, and the results tested before adding more. I would recommend decanting some portion of the ink bottle into a smaller container and use a toothpick to add surfactant until you achieve the properties you desire.

[corniche]

Thanks all. Anybody hear of Glycerin to lubricate ?? Apparently this was a trick that a Noodlers Manufacturer used. I wonder if it helps flow? 3 drops of pure Glycerin to 1 ounce of ink. I'd like to try it. I've found that soap is not the best for increasing the flow of inks.

 

Glycerin is a commonly-used surfactant and one can use the food-grade stuff available in pharmacies and some specialty food stores without any contamination concerns. Common dish detergent (NOT soap) may also be used.

 

What one tends to get when one increases the amount of surfactant in a solution is greater rate of flow, not necessarily greater lubrication, although it is a reasonable expectation that greater rate of flow will reduce mechanical friction. That is true only to a certain point. Too much surfactant is just that - too much. The rate of flow can be increased to a point beyond which it can no longer be managed at the point of contact, i.e. the nib on the page, and what you get is pooling and blobbing with no incremental reduction in mechanical friction. The point here is that surfactants should be added gradually, a very small amount at a time, and the results tested before adding more. I would recommend decanting some portion of the ink bottle into a smaller container and use a toothpick to add surfactant until you achieve the properties you desire.

 

Hello Bill, et al,

 

Typically, pure SILICONE grease is used to lubricate pistons; whereas pure GLYCERIN can be added to inks to increase lubrication. As JLT recommends, I would use a small amount, e.g., a drop on the end of a toothpick per pen fill.

 

You do not really want to add it to the entire bottle unless you are dedicating the bottle to one pen; since all pens write differently, the enhanced lubrication should be tailored to the pen- adding glycerin to the entire bottle would negate this.

 

Noodler’s Eel is lubricated with a derivative of a frog excretion. The slime that frogs excrete is a unique goo- it is both slick and sticky. In model railroading, we have a product called “Frog Snot” which is applied to a locomotive’s wheels to enhance traction; gun slingers use a product called FrogLube to lubricate and clean their guns. Both products are a derivative from the frog excretion- as is Noodler’s Eel lubricant.

 

All the best,

 

Sean

[Bill Wood]

So Sean - pardon the expression again but can you put "Frogs Snot" in ink? - and if so - where would one get "Frog's Snot" - and (yes - Frog season is over in Saskatchewan) ! :blink:

[corniche]

So Sean - pardon the expression again but can you put "Frogs Snot" in ink? - and if so - where would one get "Frog's Snot" - and (yes - Frog season is over in Saskatchewan) ! :blink:

 

Hello Bill, et al,

 

While I dislike the name intensely; "F.S." is a fine product if you want to enhance your model locomotive's tractive effort; however, I would NEVER put it ink.

 

"F.S." is tacky- not slick, which reminds me, while FrogLube, (for guns), is slick- you can't put that in ink either.

 

Stick (pun unintended) with pure glycerin.

 

All the best,

 

Sean

Edited November 3, 2011 by S. P. Colfer

[ninly]

Noodler’s Eel is lubricated with a derivative of a frog excretion. The slime that frogs excrete is a unique goo- it is both slick and sticky.

 

Sorry for nitpicking here -- and I'm certainly no expert -- but biologically I would guess that the substance is a secretion rather than an excretion. Generally these are different processes with different purposes (e.g., we secrete skin oil because it helps protect and moisturize our skin, whereas excretions ... well, we just want rid of those.)

 

Interesting information, though, Sean! Lots of interesting stuff in this thread. It's timely, too, as this week I've been comparing the properties my new bottle of Noodler's Purple Heart (an American Eel ink) to my other inks.

[corniche]

Noodler’s Eel is lubricated with a derivative of a frog excretion. The slime that frogs excrete is a unique goo- it is both slick and sticky.

 

Sorry for nitpicking here -- and I'm certainly no expert -- but biologically I would guess that the substance is a secretion rather than an excretion. Generally these are different processes with different purposes (e.g., we secrete skin oil because it helps protect and moisturize our skin, whereas excretions ... well, we just want rid of those.)

 

Interesting information, though, Sean! Lots of interesting stuff in this thread. It's timely, too, as this week I've been comparing the properties my new bottle of Noodler's Purple Heart (an American Eel ink) to my other inks.

 

Hello Ninly,

 

You're 100% correct, (it is a secretion not an excretion), - thanks for catching that. You'll have to excuse me; I haven't been asleep since yesterday morning and I think I'm getting a little "punchy."

 

All the best,

 

Sean

Edited November 3, 2011 by S. P. Colfer

[The Good Captain]

From memory, semolina boiled to extinction and then strained and filtered, would produce the same sort of viscous liquid that could be used for the purposes described.

If the stuff we had for school lunches is anything to go by.

[Even_Stephen]

Some of my medium nibs are just fine on the cheaper paper we use at work, but I've just noticed that some of my medium-fine nibs, a couple of Sailors, really need to get pushed across the paper rather a nice smooth glide. I've heard a few things about inks with some 'lubrication' in the formula. Some have it, and some don't - and I'm just wondering has found any big difference in some of the 'lubricated' inks compared to - lets say - a benchmark Waterman Blue/Black. Thanks all.

 

Dear Bill,

 

I have had the same problem with two Sailor pens: a 1911 Large and my newly bought King of Pens. With both I have had (worryingly) hard starts with several inks, such as Sailor Jentle Four Seasons and the ordinary black and blue. What really helps my pens write extremely comfortable are the very cheap Pelikan 4001 inks, such as "Königsblau," Royal Blue and Iroshizuku Ku-jaku. With both inks I absolutely need no pressure whatsoever for the pens to write, their mere own weight is enough to get them going.

 

The only downside to this is that these inks generally are absolutely non-waterresistant, such as the basic Lamy inks are. Let us not even start with discussing their uv-resistance. To cut to the chase: if you still have trouble with your pens, I believe you will be blown away by the cheapest of inks (at least in Germany/the Netherlands), the Pelikan 4001 which sells for about Euro 6,50 or 7 Dollars for 62,5 ml (or 2 fl. oz).

 

All the best,

Stephen

[chromantic]

Monteverde inks contain a lubricant and, if my experience with MV Brown is anything to go by, it really works; took a while to find a pen (Luxor Parker Vector) where it didn't gush. In a Jinhao Safari, I'd watch as a big drop formed on the end of the nib and then fall onto the page.