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Ecclesiastical Stationery Supplies Registrars Ink


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#261 Ignatian

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Posted 28 March 2012 - 15:29

I know that this ink has been getting a lot of wonderful press- and much has been said already- but I thought I would add my two cents. I have used ESSRI for several months now in a variety of pens and on a variety of paper ranging from bank deposit slips to 32lb Staples stuff to official ecclesiastical record books (baptisms, marriages, confirmations and funerals.) I guess I actually use it for a purpose consistent with its name!

This ink has been a real adventure. You never really know what to expect when you put pen to paper. Sometimes it oxidizes and darkens fairly quickly. At other times it remains blue; and at still other times it remains "bluish." This may not be my favorite or even everyday ink, but it is certainly the most fun! More fun than one should really have in church!

Thanks, Sandy, for introducing this to us...and for your always extraordinary reviews.

Jim

PS I am using it currently in a Sheaffer Balance, with a gusher of a medium nib.

Edited by Ignatian, 28 March 2012 - 15:42.


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#262 Sandy1

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Posted 29 March 2012 - 18:47

I know that this ink has been getting a lot of wonderful press- and much has been said already- but I thought I would add my two cents. I have used ESSRI for several months now in a variety of pens and on a variety of paper ranging from bank deposit slips to 32lb Staples stuff to official ecclesiastical record books (baptisms, marriages, confirmations and funerals.) I guess I actually use it for a purpose consistent with its name!

This ink has been a real adventure. You never really know what to expect when you put pen to paper. Sometimes it oxidizes and darkens fairly quickly. At other times it remains blue; and at still other times it remains "bluish." This may not be my favorite or even everyday ink, but it is certainly the most fun! More fun than one should really have in church!

Thanks, Sandy, for introducing this to us...and for your always extraordinary reviews.

Jim

PS I am using it currently in a Sheaffer Balance, with a gusher of a medium nib.

Hi,

You're welcome!

Thanks for sharing your extended experience with ESSRI.
:thumbup:

:bunny01:. "More fun than one should really have in church!" .:bunny01:


Indeed!

Bye,
S1

Edited by Sandy1, 29 March 2012 - 18:48.

The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire.


#263 Korybas

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Posted 04 April 2012 - 15:05

Hello all!

Just thought I should report this, about ESSRI ink:
I am using it with my Visconti HS Stub for some months now, and its a wonderful ink that tames the "fire-hose" but I have noticed that it stains the piston blue. Of course, its from Titanium and I have no worries of corrosion, but I thought to let you know. I guess that I can remove the tint of the piston with some diluted amonia solution, but I haven't done so so far...


Hi,

Thanks for the update! :thumbup:

I am curious about maintenance of the pen since starting to use ESSRI: Has the pen been flushed when inking-up? Or has the pen been run for months without maintenance?

When/If you choose to use an ammonia solution to remove the stain, please let us know how it goes.

Bye,
S1



Hello Sandy and friends!

I can confirm that the staining of the Titanium piston is very easy to clean with some 10% solution of ammonia.
I flush the pen after 3 fillings of ESSRI ink, usually once every 10-15 days, both with a solution of ammonia and with plain water afterwards. But never thought to clean the piston... Anyway, that is very easy to do, with a few cotton swabs...

Bye!
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#264 Sandy1

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 13:53

Hello all!

Just thought I should report this, about ESSRI ink:
I am using it with my Visconti HS Stub for some months now, and its a wonderful ink that tames the "fire-hose" but I have noticed that it stains the piston blue. Of course, its from Titanium and I have no worries of corrosion, but I thought to let you know. I guess that I can remove the tint of the piston with some diluted amonia solution, but I haven't done so so far...


Hi,

Thanks for the update! :thumbup:

I am curious about maintenance of the pen since starting to use ESSRI: Has the pen been flushed when inking-up? Or has the pen been run for months without maintenance?

When/If you choose to use an ammonia solution to remove the stain, please let us know how it goes.

Bye,
S1



Hello Sandy and friends!

I can confirm that the staining of the Titanium piston is very easy to clean with some 10% solution of ammonia.
I flush the pen after 3 fillings of ESSRI ink, usually once every 10-15 days, both with a solution of ammonia and with plain water afterwards. But never thought to clean the piston... Anyway, that is very easy to do, with a few cotton swabs...

Bye!

Hi,

Thanks for the detailed information! :thumbup:

It seems to me that one needs to address cleaning the entire pen: As previously mentioned, disassembling to the extent that one can re-assemble the pen. Likely most important when changing to-from an I-G ink, less important for a pen dedicated to a given ink.
(I use my MB149 with many inks without problems, but I flush the pen+cap within a day or three of inking-up. I've not felt the need to send it for service / deep cleaning.)

Bye,
S1

The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire.


#265 rbadger332

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 13:53

Update on mine: Got my ink yesterday and filled my Homo Sapiens. This ink REALLY tames this pen out. Makes the nib write like a Medium (which it is supposed to be.) As others have stated, every paper reacts differently. Some make the ink turn black VERY quickly, where others can take hours or longer. I love it! I think this ink is going to find a permanent home in my pens. Also - VERY distinct smell. Im not sure if they used Phenol in the ink as the fungicide, but it sure smells "chemically." One of my cats smelled the open bottle and ran off in a hurry. :P

EDIT: Forgot name of pen in intro.

Edited by rbadger332, 05 April 2012 - 13:54.

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#266 mcbender

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 17:30

My Homo Sapiens (F) came today, so of course I immediately filled it with this. I'm a little surprised at how normally the pen writes; these are supposed to be very wet, and I was expecting it to write closer to an M, but it's just as narrow a line as the rest of my F nibbed pens. I'm almost disappointed - "taming the flow" seems less attractive if it's done too well, I think (I was kind of hoping it'd still put rivers of the stuff down).

It's interesting, I get more of a washed out blue/grey colour and it's not darkening as much as I expected it to; I was nervous it wouldn't be waterproof but it still withstands a long soak and running water (although the result is a washed-out looking grey). Then again, maybe I've just been spoiled by Pharmacist's ink recently, which has a higher IG content, flows wetter, and ends up almost completely black after a day or two. I'll have to see if the ESSRI darkens any more with age also.

#267 rbadger332

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 17:37

Try your Homo Sapiens with Pilot-Iroshizuku ink. It will be a different beast, I guarantee it. :P

Edited by rbadger332, 05 April 2012 - 17:37.

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#268 Korybas

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 22:26

My Homo Sapiens (F) came today, so of course I immediately filled it with this. I'm a little surprised at how normally the pen writes; these are supposed to be very wet, and I was expecting it to write closer to an M, but it's just as narrow a line as the rest of my F nibbed pens. I'm almost disappointed - "taming the flow" seems less attractive if it's done too well, I think (I was kind of hoping it'd still put rivers of the stuff down).


+1 for this! I hoped for the same! Alas, alas! :headsmack:
First experience with an IG ink, you see... :embarrassed_smile:

It's interesting, I get more of a washed out blue/grey colour and it's not darkening as much as I expected it to; I was nervous it wouldn't be waterproof but it still withstands a long soak and running water (although the result is a washed-out looking grey). Then again, maybe I've just been spoiled by Pharmacist's ink recently, which has a higher IG content, flows wetter, and ends up almost completely black after a day or two. I'll have to see if the ESSRI darkens any more with age also.


Really? Does the Pharmacist IG ink has a better flow? And darkens more? :hmm1: :hmm1: :hmm1:
I would think that the end color result of the IG inks depends on the paper used...
Thanks for any input,

Aris
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#269 inkstainedruth

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Posted 05 April 2012 - 22:40

Hello all!

Just thought I should report this, about ESSRI ink:
I am using it with my Visconti HS Stub for some months now, and its a wonderful ink that tames the "fire-hose" but I have noticed that it stains the piston blue. Of course, its from Titanium and I have no worries of corrosion, but I thought to let you know. I guess that I can remove the tint of the piston with some diluted amonia solution, but I haven't done so so far...


Hi,

Thanks for the update! :thumbup:

I am curious about maintenance of the pen since starting to use ESSRI: Has the pen been flushed when inking-up? Or has the pen been run for months without maintenance?

When/If you choose to use an ammonia solution to remove the stain, please let us know how it goes.

Bye,
S1



Hello Sandy and friends!

I can confirm that the staining of the Titanium piston is very easy to clean with some 10% solution of ammonia.
I flush the pen after 3 fillings of ESSRI ink, usually once every 10-15 days, both with a solution of ammonia and with plain water afterwards. But never thought to clean the piston... Anyway, that is very easy to do, with a few cotton swabs...

Bye!


Interesting. Pharmacist specifically said to *not* cleaning with ammonia with his inks -- to use (IIRC) white vinegar instead, because the ink and ammonia will react badly together. Is this because his have a higher IG content?
Ruth Morrisson aka inkstainedruth
"It's very nice, but frankly, when I signed that list for a P-51, what I had in mind was a fountain pen."

#270 mcbender

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 02:30

After a bit of use, I'm getting better flow and more darkening (but still inconsistent, the shading is all over the place). It doesn't give as consistent an appearance as I get with Pharmacist's ink (which I see subtler shading from), but that might also be because I was using that ink in a wider nibbed pen, so I'll have to try that out in the HS soon and give a report comparing them.

I would be very interested to know the resolution of the ammonia question - I've been using JB's Pen Flush which has ammonia content to clean IG ink out of pens, and it seems to work but I'd like to know if that's not good practice.

#271 pharmacist

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 05:33

Just to clear up some things about using ammonia to clean IG ink from pens. The most important thing is not to use ammonia the first rinses, because the IG compounds can precipitate into a tarnish like film onto the internal parts of the ink. You might use ammonia to remove the dye stains in the IG ink, but only after the first rinse with vinegar to remove as much IG compounds as possible. You do not want that permanent pigment to attach into the capillary tubes of your pen....The idea of this workflow has everything to do with the composition of IG ink. Remove IG compounds first without precipitation (tap/destilled water or better: vinegar) and then clean out the dye compund (anything you like, including ammonia/(rubbing) alcohol).

#272 Korybas

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 07:08

Just to clear up some things about using ammonia to clean IG ink from pens. The most important thing is not to use ammonia the first rinses, because the IG compounds can precipitate into a tarnish like film onto the internal parts of the ink. You might use ammonia to remove the dye stains in the IG ink, but only after the first rinse with vinegar to remove as much IG compounds as possible. You do not want that permanent pigment to attach into the capillary tubes of your pen....The idea of this workflow has everything to do with the composition of IG ink. Remove IG compounds first without precipitation (tap/destilled water or better: vinegar) and then clean out the dye compund (anything you like, including ammonia/(rubbing) alcohol).


Pure or diluted white vinegar?
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#273 pharmacist

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 11:09

Hi Korybas,

diluted white vinegar (about 10 %) should suffice. Rinse in between with water and then finally to remove the dye stains use ammonia or rubbing alcohol as you want.

#274 mcbender

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 11:41

Ah, okay, that makes perfect sense, pharmacist. I always flushed with water first, which explains why I never saw anything adverse happen.

#275 Sandy1

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 12:49

My Homo Sapiens (F) came today, so of course I immediately filled it with this. I'm a little surprised at how normally the pen writes; these are supposed to be very wet, and I was expecting it to write closer to an M, but it's just as narrow a line as the rest of my F nibbed pens. I'm almost disappointed - "taming the flow" seems less attractive if it's done too well, I think (I was kind of hoping it'd still put rivers of the stuff down).

It's interesting, I get more of a washed out blue/grey colour and it's not darkening as much as I expected it to; I was nervous it wouldn't be waterproof but it still withstands a long soak and running water (although the result is a washed-out looking grey). Then again, maybe I've just been spoiled by Pharmacist's ink recently, which has a higher IG content, flows wetter, and ends up almost completely black after a day or two. I'll have to see if the ESSRI darkens any more with age also.

Hi,

Many thanks for adding to the trove of experiences with ESSRI! :thumbup:

While I certainly understand your enthusiasm to try the intended combo, I would suggest giving the pen a thorough cleaning to remove any artifacts of manufacture; then use an ink that is known to you to suss-out the pen+nib basic characteristics. (I use WFBl & MBMBl.) This also gives the pen a chance to 'get down to business': parts shifting/aligning a bit as they are used, and the micro changes from being exposed to fluids.

An I-G ink will typically have the nib running at its narrowest 'native' width: modest flow and a clean taut line. If you were to use ESSRI or any other I-G ink in your other F-nib pens, I would not be surprised if you noticed the line to be slightly more narrow and crisp than when used with dye-based ink.

Bye,
S1

The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire.


#276 Sandy1

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 13:13

After a bit of use, I'm getting better flow and more darkening (but still inconsistent, the shading is all over the place). It doesn't give as consistent an appearance as I get with Pharmacist's ink (which I see subtler shading from), but that might also be because I was using that ink in a wider nibbed pen, so I'll have to try that out in the HS soon and give a report comparing them.

I would be very interested to know the resolution of the ammonia question - I've been using JB's Pen Flush which has ammonia content to clean IG ink out of pens, and it seems to work but I'd like to know if that's not good practice.

Hi,

It seems your new HS is 'waking up'!

The best way to compare inks is from the same pens on the same pen/s. I look forward to seeing your Comparison.
As the ESSRI has proven to be greatly influenced by the paper, more than a few papers may give a more well-rounded result. Also, the rate and extent of oxidisation should be taken into account, so the samples need to 'cure' for some days or weeks.

It seems that JB's Pen Flush was a 'shop standard' for quite some time prior to being made available over the counter. IIRC there is no limitation as to its use, and I have not read of any adverse results since it came onto the market. I suppose the question 'Is it the best for all pens and all inks under all circumstances?' remains to be answered.

Bye,
S1

The only time you have too much fuel is when you're on fire.


#277 Sandy1

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Posted 06 April 2012 - 13:21

Just to clear up some things about using ammonia to clean IG ink from pens. The most important thing is not to use ammonia the first rinses, because the IG compounds can precipitate into a tarnish like film onto the internal parts of the ink. You might use ammonia to remove the dye stains in the IG ink, but only after the first rinse with vinegar to remove as much IG compounds as possible. You do not want that permanent pigment to attach into the capillary tubes of your pen....The idea of this workflow has everything to do with the composition of IG ink. Remove IG compounds first without precipitation (tap/destilled water or better: vinegar) and then clean out the dye compund (anything you like, including ammonia/(rubbing) alcohol).

Hi,

Many thanks for adding your knowledge of pen maintenance when using I-G inks - not only the stuff to use, but the rationale behind the process. :clap1:

Bye,
S1

*goes to deep clean the MB149*

Edited by Sandy1, 06 April 2012 - 13:32.

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#278 mcbender

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Posted 07 April 2012 - 14:54

Yes, the information is much appreciated, pharmacist :)

Sandy, I'll definitely try to do a thorough comparison soon, although it might be a while before I have enough spare time to really do it justice. I'm trying to decide what the best methodology is going to be in order to make the results useful - I haven't done this sort of thing before.

#279 drgoretex

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Posted 18 April 2012 - 18:06

Please take note of the previous suggestions to decant the ink into at least two [glass] bottles, which was refined to propose three bottles - taking into account the large volume, avoiding sediment and keeping the ink sound as time passes. http://www.fountainp...ost__p__2164772

Bye,
S1[/font]


I thought I'd add a bit of feedback (no pun) about ESSR. I picked up a bottle of this a few months ago, and was using it exclusively for most of that time, being swept away by enthusiasm for it. Have run into a small issue that has caused me (at least temporarily) to get swept away by another ink. That's me. All or nothing. :rolleyes: Of course, it's a great way to really get a feel for an ink - use it all the time, in all my pens for a few weeks, and I will get to know it pretty well...

Great things about ESSR, which I still LOVE - it really resists bleedthrough and showthrough, even on relatively lousy paper. That is COOL. It shades nicely, especially with a wetter pen. It morphs from blue black to gey-black with a hint of blue. Cool. I like that. It is permanent and waterproof. Love it! It is well behaved and looks good.

But - and this is why I re-posted your comment above, Sandy1 - I did find that if I wasn't absolutely rigorous about pen hygeine, cleaning out daily after use, the wetter pens slowly became medium, then dry. Further, is stained the heck out of my Pelikan M600 & M605 ink windows, and any converters I used it in (the satins resolved rather well with lots of flushing and leaving the pens loaded with water for a few days). Now, this may be ameliorated by filtering/decanting the ink so that there is less sediment, but really the only way to avoid it well would be strict flushing after use. That's a pain, to me.

In the balance - I still really like ESSR, and am more than glad to have a nice big bottle of it, and WILL continue to use it with the cautions above. But for now, I am on to Lamy's Blue-Black Iron gall ink, which doesn't seem to clog as much (so far).

OK. Back to work.

Ken

Edited by drgoretex, 18 April 2012 - 18:08.


#280 daoud62

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Posted 18 April 2012 - 19:15


Please take note of the previous suggestions to decant the ink into at least two [glass] bottles, which was refined to propose three bottles - taking into account the large volume, avoiding sediment and keeping the ink sound as time passes. http://www.fountainp...ost__p__2164772

Bye,
S1[/font]


I thought I'd add a bit of feedback (no pun) about ESSR. I picked up a bottle of this a few months ago, and was using it exclusively for most of that time, being swept away by enthusiasm for it. Have run into a small issue that has caused me (at least temporarily) to get swept away by another ink. That's me. All or nothing. :rolleyes: Of course, it's a great way to really get a feel for an ink - use it all the time, in all my pens for a few weeks, and I will get to know it pretty well...

Great things about ESSR, which I still LOVE - it really resists bleedthrough and showthrough, even on relatively lousy paper. That is COOL. It shades nicely, especially with a wetter pen. It morphs from blue black to gey-black with a hint of blue. Cool. I like that. It is permanent and waterproof. Love it! It is well behaved and looks good.

But - and this is why I re-posted your comment above, Sandy1 - I did find that if I wasn't absolutely rigorous about pen hygeine, cleaning out daily after use, the wetter pens slowly became medium, then dry. Further, is stained the heck out of my Pelikan M600 & M605 ink windows, and any converters I used it in (the satins resolved rather well with lots of flushing and leaving the pens loaded with water for a few days). Now, this may be ameliorated by filtering/decanting the ink so that there is less sediment, but really the only way to avoid it well would be strict flushing after use. That's a pain, to me.

In the balance - I still really like ESSR, and am more than glad to have a nice big bottle of it, and WILL continue to use it with the cautions above. But for now, I am on to Lamy's Blue-Black Iron gall ink, which doesn't seem to clog as much (so far).

OK. Back to work.

Ken


Hi Ken,

Thanks for your reaction.

I'm using ESSRI in the Tiger's Eye pen that you made for me, which is in my daily rotation, and I have been for the past week or ten days. Should I be flushing the nib every day to avoid clogging? I haven't had any problem so far.






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