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Is There An Easy Way To Lubricate Piston Of M200-M800's ?


SamCapote

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Silicon that's safe for use in contact w/ food should be fine. Eg. the stuff that's used to lubricate/seal faucets sold in DIY and home improvement stores.

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I've been using 40W RC Car silcone shock oil in my TWSBI for 4 months. Its made of the same stuff, and it doesnt cost as much/volume. So far my piston and O-Rings have held up well, and oddly, I don't have to lube it as much as I did when I was using other oils. Don't know if it's going to hamr it long run, but considering 4 months havent broken antything, I'm going to continue.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hi:

 

Should be possible photos of the M805 toothpick method?

 

Regards and a I wish to all of you a happy new year.

 

It is quite easy for those models with removable nib/feed assembly that unscrews. Once flushed clean, you just stick the toothpick into the open hole (after unscrewing nib/feed) and deposit the silicon into the ink chamber walls. Be careful you don't get it on the walls of the section, or it will likely get on the nib/feed and repel ink. I got a small jar from Binder's website.

With the new FPN rules, now I REALLY don't know what to put in my signature.

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  • 3 years later...

IMO Silicone Grease is not a good oil for piston fillers. Because it changes its state depending ambient temperature. For this reason in the hot climate environements its difficult to apply on the barrel wall

For last 20 year I am using Staburags NBU 12. Its very expensive grease but IMO its perfect for inky env.

Description of Staburags NBU 12 as follows;
STABURAGS NBU 12 are lubricating greases based on mineral oil and barium complex soap. These products are resistant to very high specific surface pressure, thus ensuring good wear protection. In addition, they are resistant to corrosion, water and many diluted alkaline and acid solutions.

  • Good corrosion protection

  • Good resistance to ambient media

  • Excellent wear protection

  • Good resistance to tribo-corrosion

  • Good load-carrying capacity

  • Good sealing effect

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I lubricated 24 Reform 1745 fountain pens, using this method. (group purchase) I used a plastic

tooth pick and the vial of lube that comes with TWSBI. With a bit of "trial and error", I produced

two dozen pens with near effortless pistons. Don't neglect the piston knob threads.

 

Notes:

Too little lube can be corrected by a second application. It is much harder to remove excess lube.

Any lube, you can see in the pen barrel, is excess and non-functional. Lubricate / don't decorate.

Auf freiem Grund mit freiem Volke stehn.
Zum Augenblicke dürft ich sagen:
Verweile doch, du bist so schön !

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I use SEIKO genuine silicone grease, one of the highest quality in Japan

It may be too good for this purpose, it is safe.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrTEKp3tNrI

It is originally used for water-resistant watch.

Edited by tacitus

Please visit my website Modern Pelikan Pens for the latest information. It is updating and correcting original articles posted in "Dating Pelikan fountain Pen".

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  • 1 month later...

This is basically what I do

 

1. Unscrew the nib off

2. Get a clean and new cotton swab

3. Put a very tiny amount of silicon grease on it

 

4. Put the swab through the hole where you unscrewed the nib from and gently twirl the swab around and apply it generously in the body of the pen.

 

Note before doing so make sure the piston in the pen is pushed back a bit.

 

Hope this helps

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  • 5 months later...
  • 1 year later...

For the piston fillers m600 and below, best is to unscrew the nib unit, apply minimam amount of appropriate silicone grease using a toothpick to the walls of the berrel and working the piston a couple of times.

Worked perfectly for my m215. Thank you.

Edited by KublaiKhan
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I prefer to use Du Pont Krytox GPL 205. It is silicone free, non toxic, non flammable, same kinematic viscosity at temperatures from -36 to +204 (we have weather swings from -30 to +30 here over the year), it's additive-free, etc. Extremely expensive (.5 oz tube costs ~$30 - good enough for a lifetime...) and probably overkill, but you only need so little. Krytox oils don't damage plastics or elastomers or cause corrosion.

Edited by invisuu
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Because 7-8 years ago silicon grease was very hard to find in Germany......not easy now either, a very fine poster sent me a small vial of 100% silicon grease from a dive shop. I still have 1/5th that vial. So it goes a long way.

 

Ron says one should lube one's Pelikan every three or more years. I didn't have to lube many of them, and most of mine are '50-65's. I have more Pelikans lately with in the last two years; so someone else lubed them or they are just still good to go.

In reference to P. T. Barnum; to advise for free is foolish, ........busybodies are ill liked by both factions.

 

 

The cheapest lessons are from those who learned expensive lessons. Ignorance is best for learning expensive lessons.

 

 

 

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100% silicon lubricant. This insures that there is no petroleum content. Use whichever substitute you choose, at the peril of your pen.

Auf freiem Grund mit freiem Volke stehn.
Zum Augenblicke dürft ich sagen:
Verweile doch, du bist so schön !

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I did this to show how to lubricate a converter, but it's the same for an M 200-600 pens with the nib unscrewed and removed. Of course the same method can be used on M800 & M1000's.

Unless you are having serious issues, there really is no need to remove the piston assemblies. They are pre-lubed and quite robust. It's the inner barrel that gets dried out and causes resistance as the piston head travels up an down. The "back end" behind the piston head almost never needs lubricating.

A little silicone grease spread on the inside of the barrel will give you a pen that operates like new.

post-108126-0-76268400-1498150316_thumb.jpg

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