Sheaffer Vac - How Full Should It Fill?

[Iscribe]

I was thinking about purchasing a Sheaffer vac (model not listed by seller). It is listed as being freshly restored by the seller. The seller states that the pen only fills half-way, but can be filled further by expelling the air and drawing up more ink. This is a grren striated vac with wide cap band. I am new to vintage pens so I wondered if it is normal for a restored vac to only fill half way on an initial fill attempt? Thanks.

John

[jar]

I was thinking about purchasing a Sheaffer vac (model not listed by seller). It is listed as being freshly restored by the seller. The seller states that the pen only fills half-way, but can be filled further by expelling the air and drawing up more ink. This is a grren striated vac with wide cap band. I am new to vintage pens so I wondered if it is normal for a restored vac to only fill half way on an initial fill attempt? Thanks.

John

 

No, it is not at all correct and I'd question if it was really restored properly. Factor in about $30.00 or so to get it restored properly.

[777]

I believe that would be the one I restored, and have for sale right now...

 

The pen doesn't fill half-way, but more like between 1/2 and 3/4 of the way, which I hear is semi-normal. But, it's the first one I've restored and I used the fountainbel method so maybe that makes a difference... I'll play with it and see what I can do.

 

There's a first time for everything!

 

Regards,

777 - Tyler Dahl

[ashbridg]

I was thinking about purchasing a Sheaffer vac (model not listed by seller). It is listed as being freshly restored by the seller. The seller states that the pen only fills half-way, but can be filled further by expelling the air and drawing up more ink. This is a grren striated vac with wide cap band. I am new to vintage pens so I wondered if it is normal for a restored vac to only fill half way on an initial fill attempt? Thanks.

John

Why do you think it would load more ink on the second attempt than the first one? The plunger-rod gasket generates the same pressure every time it’s pushed down. Part of the beauty of a Vac-Fil is it loads fully on the first attempt.

Ashby

[777]

I was thinking about purchasing a Sheaffer vac (model not listed by seller). It is listed as being freshly restored by the seller. The seller states that the pen only fills half-way, but can be filled further by expelling the air and drawing up more ink. This is a grren striated vac with wide cap band. I am new to vintage pens so I wondered if it is normal for a restored vac to only fill half way on an initial fill attempt? Thanks.

John

Why do you think it would load more ink on the second attempt than the first one? The plunger-rod gasket generates the same pressure every time it's pushed down. Part of the beauty of a Vac-Fil is it loads fully on the first attempt.

Ashby

 

 

 

You can actually flip the pen upside down, and push the air out of it, then return it to the ink bottle and fill it all the way. Works like a charm!

BTW - I worked on that vac a little more and now I've got it filling over 3/4 full most of the time. For some reason, it's fill-level depends on how fast/slow I push the plunger in. Pushing it at a medium/fast rate results in a very good fill.

Regards,

777 - Tyler Dahl

[Ron Z]

You can actually flip the pen upside down, and push the air out of it, then return it to the ink bottle and fill it all the way. Works like a charm!

 

That shouldn't be needed. Properly restored you should get 2/3-3/4 full. There is the odd pen that won't fill completely no matter what you do, but that is rare. Note that a Tuckawy does not fill that far because the piston doesn't travel far enough to pull a really good vacuum. There are a number of things that can cause a vac to fill less than it should, and it takes a while to learn how to find them.

 

If you use the right materials - the 0-rings from David Nishimura and the buna-N rubber, you are more likely to have the pen fill as it should the first time. Even so, on occasion there can be leaks that you have to track down, or imperfect seams in the barrel that allow the vacuum to break that can cause problems.

[777]

You can actually flip the pen upside down, and push the air out of it, then return it to the ink bottle and fill it all the way. Works like a charm!

 

That shouldn't be needed. Properly restored you should get 2/3-3/4 full. There is the odd pen that won't fill completely no matter what you do, but that is rare. Note that a Tuckawy does not fill that far because the piston doesn't travel far enough to pull a really good vacuum. There are a number of things that can cause a vac to fill less than it should, and it takes a while to learn how to find them.

 

If you use the right materials - the 0-rings from David Nishimura and the buna-N rubber, you are more likely to have the pen fill as it should the first time. Even so, on occasion there can be leaks that you have to track down, or imperfect seams in the barrel that allow the vacuum to break that can cause problems.

 

 

Okay, so after re-sealing everything I've got it filling usually between 80% and 90% full. This is good, right?

 

I used the fountainbel stuff mainly cause I was too afraid to "weld" in that piece using your method... Someday I want to try it though as it seems much more cost effective.

 

Overall though, I kinda' think that Sheaffer vac-fills are a bit of a flawed design. Someone at the factory should have thought ahead 30-40+ years.

 

Regards,

777 - Tyler Dahl

 

 

[Ron Z]

I don't know that I agree. I think that Sheaffer made a remarkable and innovative product. Note that it lasted from the 1930s through to some time in the 50s in one form or another. For a while it was used side by side with the Touchdown fillers. It must have worked well enough that they weren't willing to abandon the design.

 

Manufacturers aren't looking to make a product that will last 30-40 years. The methods used to make modern pens indicate that is still the case. IMO in some cases you're luck if you get 10 years. The 70 or 80 year life span of these products is far beyond what they imagined! You also have to remember that Sheaffer didn't have access to the materials that we have today. In the 1930s and 1940s the Viton and buna-N rubber that we have didn't exist. At the same time, the graphite impregnated rubber that they used in the head gaskets (graphite acting as a lubricant so that the gasket slides more easily) was a very creative idea, and we don't have that to use.

[777]

I don't know that I agree. I think that Sheaffer made a remarkable and innovative product. Note that it lasted from the 1930s through to some time in the 50s in one form or another. For a while it was used side by side with the Touchdown fillers. It must have worked well enough that they weren't willing to abandon the design.

 

Manufacturers aren't looking to make a product that will last 30-40 years. The methods used to make modern pens indicate that is still the case. IMO in some cases you're luck if you get 10 years. The 70 or 80 year life span of these products is far beyond what they imagined! You also have to remember that Sheaffer didn't have access to the materials that we have today. In the 1930s and 1940s the Viton and buna-N rubber that we have didn't exist. At the same time, the graphite impregnated rubber that they used in the head gaskets (graphite acting as a lubricant so that the gasket slides more easily) was a very creative idea, and we don't have that to use.

 

Right you are Ron, I suppose I'm just not a vac-fill fan.

 

Sheaffer definitely had some good ideas, especially when you factor in the materials they had available, and what was possible during that time period.

 

I wonder, in another 50 years how the modern pens I use will be holding up. It'll be interesting to see.

[Ray-Vigo]

It should fill adequately with a single stroke. I would say adequate to be 2/3 or more for a standard sized pen. I agree with Ron on that 2/3 mark, at least from my experience with them. Some do fill a little less, some a little more. 80-90% on a single stroke is a good result, in my estimation. Mine usually are in the 2/3-3/4 range, which I would say is "acceptable".

 

A properly restored wire pen with good transparency is a real gem. I have one in particular that I like. The others work but the transparency element is a real plus. I tend to prefer lever fillers though, as I find them much easier to troubleshoot.

Edited July 25, 2011 by Ray-Vigo

[777]

It should fill adequately with a single stroke. I would say adequate to be 2/3 or more for a standard sized pen. I agree with Ron on that 2/3 mark, at least from my experience with them. Some do fill a little less, some a little more. 80-90% on a single stroke is a good result, in my estimation. Mine usually are in the 2/3-3/4 range, which I would say is "acceptable".

 

A properly restored wire pen with good transparency is a real gem. I have one in particular that I like. The others work but the transparency element is a real plus. I tend to prefer lever fillers though, as I find them much easier to troubleshoot.

 

Then it sounds like mine is working really good now. It seems to be 80% - 90%, sometimes 70% with a single stroke to fill.

 

 

Yup, I definitely prefer lever-fillers. If shellac dried instantly, it would only take me 5 minutes to restore a lever filler. At most...

 

Regards,

777 - Tyler Dahl

[ashbridg]

I don't know that I agree. I think that Sheaffer made a remarkable and innovative product. Note that it lasted from the 1930s through to some time in the 50s in one form or another. For a while it was used side by side with the Touchdown fillers. It must have worked well enough that they weren't willing to abandon the design.

 

Manufacturers aren't looking to make a product that will last 30-40 years. The methods used to make modern pens indicate that is still the case. IMO in some cases you're luck if you get 10 years. The 70 or 80 year life span of these products is far beyond what they imagined! You also have to remember that Sheaffer didn't have access to the materials that we have today. In the 1930s and 1940s the Viton and buna-N rubber that we have didn't exist. At the same time, the graphite impregnated rubber that they used in the head gaskets (graphite acting as a lubricant so that the gasket slides more easily) was a very creative idea, and we don't have that to use.

I think one reason Vac-Fils get a bad name is that many people have never seen a good one. A common complaint is the plunger rods are too hard to depress. The problem may be due to a lack of lubricated head gaskets like Sheaffer used (made from graphite-impregnated rubber). Even with the new buna-N rubber, proper installation of these gaskets poses a challenge for the Vac-Fil hobbyist.

 

Vac-Fils have self-lubricating plunger rods, a design feature I find ingenious. The packing units contain felt seals impregnated with graphite and a special silicone lubricant (I believe I learned that fact from you and David). These materials no longer exist (although Gerry Berg says you can get the correct felt from a Stetson hat worn only by Virginia State Troopers, but I figure my chances of finding any of that felt are slim). Even so, I still want to restore a packing unit authentically. I already harvested the original felt seals from a never-inked Vac-fil. My inspiration is the “rejuvenation” theory of Marshall and Oldfield (as presented in Pen Repair, Second Edition). They claim the restoration can be done authentically. Others say not. We’ll see.

Ashby

[79spitfire]

I must be doing ok then, The three I repaired all fill 3/4 or better on one swift push. I love watching the ink rise in the transparent section ones. I used the o-ring instead of packing method. This includes one that has an obvious seam showing where the celluloid was joined.

Edited July 26, 2011 by 79spitfire

[RayCornett]

I happened to find this thread by accident and it caught my attention. Glad to know mine are filling pretty much on schedule after hours of screaming in my head about incomplete fills.

[Ron Z]

I haven't seen anything in the last 6 years to make me want to change any of my comments either. We've been using the buna-N rubber stock that I bought in 2008 since then, and it's held up well. I've had an chance to play with pens that I restored 5 years before or longer, and with a little silicone grease on the rod, they work and fill just as well as they did the day they were restored. Great pens!

[RayCornett]

I did happen to be working on one when I stumbled upon this thread before replying. I love it and need to find a replacement barrel for one I killed with too much heat when I was really new to pen work about 3 years ago. If I actually want a 100% fill instead of the 2/3 to 3/4 I use the same technique as when you want to get a full fill on converters and such by tipping the pen nib up and removing the empty space then redipping.