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Lamy Pens Drying Out Problem
Posted 21 April 2011 - 12:34
Ive always had a few of the lower-range Parkers at home (Jotter, Vector, Frontier), and have never had any problems with them. I also recently acquired a Parker Sonnet with a fine steel nib, which I absolutely love, and it was this pen that really triggered my recent enthusiasm for fountain pens it writes perfectly, first time every time, very smooth and no skipping.
After discovering this forum I thought I should branch out and dry a different brand. Lamy pens always seem to be popular, and are quite easy to find in shops here in the UK, so I treated myself to a Safari (charcoal EF nib) and a Studio (steel EF nib).
I really like both of these pens, but both of them have the same problem which I fear will mean that I am not going to use them very much. The problem is that if I put the pen down for more than a few minutes I find the nib has dried out completely and the pens wont write. The Safari is slightly better than the Studio in this respect, in that it starts up again fairly quickly after a few scribbles. But the Studio is a real problem to get going again.
Have I just been unlucky or do all Lamy pens have this problem? Can anything be done to prevent this happening? Or can anyone give me some tips on how to get the Studio writing again after it dries out like this?
At the moment Im thinking Im just going to stick with my Parkers .
Posted 21 April 2011 - 12:39
Posted 21 April 2011 - 13:11
Edited by USMCMom, 21 April 2011 - 13:12.
Posted 21 April 2011 - 13:53
Posted 21 April 2011 - 14:29
Posted 21 April 2011 - 14:48
Posted 21 April 2011 - 15:07
I really like both of these pens, but both of them have the same problem which I fear will mean that I am not going to use them very much. The problem is that if I put the pen down for more than a few minutes I find the nib has dried out completely and the pens won't write. The Safari is slightly better than the Studio in this respect, in that it starts up again fairly quickly after a few scribbles. But the Studio is a real problem to get going again.
do you mean put down for more than a few minutes uncapped?
Posted 21 April 2011 - 15:24
Posted 21 April 2011 - 20:19
Yes, I mean when left uncapped. I realise that all fountain pens will dry out if left uncapped, but it just seems to happen extremely quickly, especially with the Studio. It seems that if I just pause to think for a minute or two the pen has dried out and it takes a lot of effort to get it going again.
I have certain pens that will dry out quickly when left uncapped, and others that will start going after a while. I'm not sure how much difference the ink will make, but it could influence it somewhat. For instance, my Pilot 78G when left uncapped for a couple of minutes will dry out until I scribble with it to get it going. What might help is to just rest the pen in the cap without fully clicking it shut until you decide to write again...
In regard to the other poster saying the Safari writes dry, I've had the opposite experience. My Safari EF writes pretty wet with the provided blue cartridge... must be a variance or perhaps due to the ink?
I am always looking for new penpals! Send me a pm if you'd like to exchange correspondence.
Posted 22 April 2011 - 00:02
Posted 22 April 2011 - 10:22
I'm quite happy with the Safari now - even if it does dry out it's easy to get the flow going again. The Studio, on the other hand, is very difficult to get going again.
I am really enjoying both pens, so I think I'm just going to get into the habit of capping them whenever I pause.
I guess it's part of the fun of using fountain pens - each one is different, and you have to get to know each pen individually to get the most out of it!
Posted 22 April 2011 - 12:37
Posted 22 April 2011 - 12:42
Posted 22 April 2011 - 12:44
As someone previously said, unless your talking Parker 51, a few minutes is a long time to keep a pen uncapped. Theres also the worry that the uncapped pen will roll of a desk and usualy land nib first !
Welcome to the addiction
Posted 22 April 2011 - 12:54
Lovely pens, though, and I especially like the way nibs can be changed so quickly and cheaply. I've already got quite a few spares (M, F, EF) in both the steel and the black finishes, so I'll have fun experimenting with those.
Posted 23 April 2011 - 21:55
I'd suggest flushing them out and trying again.
Every single one of my 7 lamys had a brownish, reddish, black test ink on the nib or in the feed. To me it is a sign that the pen works because it has been tested in the factory, otherwise there wouldn't be ink in it.
Posted 23 April 2011 - 22:41
and...consider using your Sonnet most of the time. In the Olden Days people bought one pen and used it until it broke or they lost it or whatever. A fountain pen before about 1960 was your word processor: like a typewriter, which people dropped as they bought PCs.
Posted 17 November 2014 - 07:12
I realize this conversation is very old now, but as someone who caps the pen quickly for fear of it drying out, I have been looking into pens with hooded nibs (Lamy 2000, Parker 51, Aurora Archivi Storici 022. Another option is going with the VP and just clicking it shut.
What was your solution, Florian?
Posted 17 November 2014 - 08:32
My al star has this problem too but as its a snap cap. I just cap it and if it fails to start I just pull the nib and wipe it.
I'm sorry if I offend or hurt anybody from my posts. I didn't mean to. At times I'm horrible with wording. I'm saying sorry in advance.
Pilot: Justus95(SF), Elabo(SF), Custom 912(CO), Custom 74(MU), VP(F), Elite 18k(M), Dipper(M), Crystal(F), Parallel(2.4), Metro(M), Knight(F), Birdie(F), Custom 743(FA), Custom 742 Posting
Platinum: PTL5000, Preppy, Deskpen, Brushpen(Kuretake)
Sailor: 55 Fude, 55 Fude Profit
Posted 17 November 2014 - 11:19
many pens do that dry out trick. In often I have 17 pens hanging out in the corner inked....some dry out even or especially with the nib up.
In the US no longer has lick and stick stamps....it may be harder for you to get hands on an old rubber postal sponge cup.
Living in Germany where we are still old fashioned on stamps, I bought one at the German post office, and dip a dry pen in with out much thought. One dip in a damp sponge does it. You could make your own.
A quarter a shot glass full of water will work work too.
Once the pen is started you need to put the cap on when you lay it down for more than a minute....if a screw in pen, you don't have to screw it closed, just put the cap on to the threads.
It's part of the price for pretty lines of fancy ink.
www.nibs.com/blog/nibster-writes/nibs-germany Info on Bock nibs
Due to Mauricio's improved definition of Super-flex, I try not use the term Easy Full Flex, but fail...sigh.
Semi-flex is an “almost” flex; not a ‘flex’ nib. It is great for regular writing with a touch of flair. It can give you some fancy; but it is not made for real fancy writing. For bit more of that get a maxi-semi-flex. Both spread tines 3X. Those are not "Flex" nibs.
Wider than Normal does not exist. Wider than Japanese does. Every company has it's very own standard + slop/tolerance. Developed from the users of it's pens and inks only; not the users or inks of other companies pens. The size you grind a nib to, is your standard only. Paper and ink matter to nib width. Thank god for 1/2 sizes or it would be boring.