Jump to content

Artus Ballit


Robe

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I have just re-corked an Artus Ballit, and I have tought to put some pictures for whom need informations. The disassembly it's quite easy, the nib is screwed in and the plunger group is keep in place from a threaded bush. To fix the cork there is not a screw, the support is slightly mushroom shaped and I fixed the cork seal with some shellac. Now the pics, enjoy!

 

http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb378/Robe_/Artus%20Ballit/ArtusBallit001.jpg

 

http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb378/Robe_/Artus%20Ballit/ArtusBallit003.jpg

 

http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb378/Robe_/Artus%20Ballit/ArtusBallit004.jpg

 

http://i1202.photobucket.com/albums/bb378/Robe_/Artus%20Ballit/ArtusBallit005.jpg

Edited by Robe
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 9 months later...
  • Replies 23
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • crabe919

    7

  • Letsi

    6

  • newlife

    3

  • JDiver

    3

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Hello Robe!

 

Quite interesting to view your posting, because some time ago I made up a thread asking what kind of glue I could use on pens that don't have a screw to fix the cork. Several people even doubted that such a pen exists. I just want to know if your shellac method has turned out fine, because I read that shellac is not water resistant; I always used two component glue successfully.

 

Klaus

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Klaus,

 

I haven't used very much this pen, two or three charges and after I have forgot it empty. A couple of days ago I have cleaned and now it's ready to go with another ink, honestly i can't say that this is an exaustive test, and I don't know if an heavier use could shows problems, but I'm optimist.

In my personal opinion if the cork is treated with paraffin, the problem shellac/water doesn't exist, because the cork is waterproof and the part of shellac in contact with the ink it's minimal.

 

Ciao,

Roberto

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks, Roberto!

 

Seems logical, that a paraffine treated cork will protect the shellac from ink. So if shellac is not hygroscopic it will be alright I think. I will give it a try with my next pen.

 

Klaus

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Hi Robert,

 

Could you explain how did you disassemble this artus?

I have a similar Artus that has a leaking cork issue...

 

Many thanks in advance.

 

Cheers

Link to comment
Share on other sites

recorked mine this morning, but i did it with a spare rubber from a lamy 27/99/2000.

To dismantle the pen, there is a slotted ring in the back of the pen. I've made a tube that fits between the knob of the filling system and the inside of the barrel with 2 little pins on it. That way you can unscrew the brass threaded piece.

 

cheers,

post-79675-0-64189700-1327133930.jpg

post-79675-0-66372400-1327133939.jpg

post-79675-0-69703600-1327133948.jpg

post-79675-0-44389200-1327133957.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

recorked mine this morning, but i did it with a spare rubber from a lamy 27/99/2000.

To dismantle the pen, there is a slotted ring in the back of the pen. I've made a tube that fits between the knob of the filling system and the inside of the barrel with 2 little pins on it. That way you can unscrew the brass threaded piece.

 

cheers,

 

Hi Crabe919,

 

Thanks a lot for your response. I presume the way to twist would be anti-clockwise for both the slotted ring and the nib unit?

Would it be possible to share if what other replacement I could use if I do not have any spare rubber cork from lamy2k or where to get these lamy rubber corks?

 

Cheers!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hello,

 

both turn out anti clockwise.

Don't know where to get a spare rubber, i used one i had left of a lamy 99. Best way is to make you own cork i guess, at least that is what i would do if i didn't had the rubber seal.

Otherwhise you can add a wanted ad in the classifieds, maybe someone can help you out.

 

regards,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hello,

 

both turn out anti clockwise.

Don't know where to get a spare rubber, i used one i had left of a lamy 99. Best way is to make you own cork i guess, at least that is what i would do if i didn't had the rubber seal.

Otherwhise you can add a wanted ad in the classifieds, maybe someone can help you out.

 

regards,

 

Thanks a lot for the information.

I've managed to disassemble the pen and now to look for that elusive cork...

 

There were some design differences, I'll see if it's possible for me to take a picture of the plunger.

 

Cheers!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Apologies for the late reply but here they are...

 

The pen dis-assembled but with nib unit still in as it felt like the collar is stuck... Don't wanna mess around there yet...

 

http://img202.imageshack.us/img202/9830/pendisassembled.jpg

 

The pen body, no Ballit engraved, just plain Artus...

 

http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/707/penbody.jpg

 

Finally the piston and the rod. You can see where the place where the cork is supposed to go has a "cap" that I'm unable to remove...

 

http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/6338/pistonv.jpg

 

Only issue now is to get the cork! :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hello,

 

The cap on my older artus, was a small "plate" that i just could turn of to fit the cap and then screw back on to hold the cork in place. On my ballit, it was the same "champion" to hold the cork in place as the pic of OP.

 

Think your's is not a ballit, but another model. My old artus without model has an friction feed and nib, opposed to my ballit with an screw in nib and feed. So i suppose that it's also friction feed.

 

Where does the small cilindrical black part is supposed to go?

 

cheers,

 

Adam

Link to comment
Share on other sites

hello,

 

The cap on my older artus, was a small "plate" that i just could turn of to fit the cap and then screw back on to hold the cork in place. On my ballit, it was the same "champion" to hold the cork in place as the pic of OP.

 

Think your's is not a ballit, but another model. My old artus without model has an friction feed and nib, opposed to my ballit with an screw in nib and feed. So i suppose that it's also friction feed.

 

Where does the small cilindrical black part is supposed to go?

 

cheers,

 

Adam

 

I'm not sure if I could twist it off the piston stem, will try and update again.

 

From what I see, the only difference is the piston stem where the cork fits and the ink window being green. Could this really be a different model just due to such minor differences? The nib's a 14k warranted nib that is full flex though, it's the sole reason why I bought the pen.

 

As for the small cylindrical part, I've used the OP's pic and added an arrow to show where it's supposed to fit in. Basically it's the end cap at the end of the piston knob.

 

http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/4918/backqr.jpg

 

On a separate note, I'm thinking to just dump the piston and make it an eyedropper...

Seems like a fairly simple operation, just put an o-ring to the piston knob cover cap and put some silicon grease on it.

What's your opinion on this?

Edited by Letsi
Link to comment
Share on other sites

About the pen and model i was just making an assumption, i am by no means a pro at recognizing pens. But because the pen has a different parts, and no inscription ballit i supposed that it is evt another artus.Here on the forum, there are many more guys who can help you further on this way. Maybe contact kaweco, he has great knowledge about german pens.

 

About the eyedropper convert, it seems straight forward, but never did it myself. I like the piston filling system and to bring the pen back to it's original condition i would recork the pen if it was mine.

 

Cheers,

 

Adam

Link to comment
Share on other sites

About the pen and model i was just making an assumption, i am by no means a pro at recognizing pens. But because the pen has a different parts, and no inscription ballit i supposed that it is evt another artus.Here on the forum, there are many more guys who can help you further on this way. Maybe contact kaweco, he has great knowledge about german pens.

 

About the eyedropper convert, it seems straight forward, but never did it myself. I like the piston filling system and to bring the pen back to it's original condition i would recork the pen if it was mine.

 

Cheers,

 

Adam

 

No worries Adam, I was just wondering out loud.

You've helped me out plenty enough already. Really appreciate all your valuable advice. :)

 

It'll be a treat to have it back to its original condition although I'm still fairly new to vintage pen repairs so was just wondering if there's any alternatives, as I'm fairly nervous about messing around with the re-corking.

Edited by Letsi
Link to comment
Share on other sites

if you can unscrew the "cap" that holds the cork, you should try to recork. Don't be affraid, because you can't mess anything up but the cork.

i usualy cut a cork a but to big and put it onto the piston rod. Then i pack the rod in some rubber and put it into my screwing machine. I gently sand the cork down on a 320 sheet whilst the machine rotates.

 

adam

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Today i received a arts favorite from the bay

Here is what i found out:

Barrel and section are exactly the same as the ballIt

Piston system is the same exempt it uses a rubber seal instead of an cork seal, and its the same as found on the lamy99/27 but the rod is +-3mm longer then the lamy's.

Piston blindkap and the cap itselfs are different the the ballit

 

cheers,

 

Adam

post-79675-0-79956900-1328561099.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 11 months later...

Sorry to necro an older thread, but did everyone fabricate the tool to open up the piston assembly? I don't really have access to any files/grinders.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello!

 

If you're talking about a tool to remove the nut from inside the barrel that's quite easy to make. Take an old cake fork, bend away one of the prongs and file the two left prongs so they will fit the nut. No way without pliers and file, sorry!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

All right... So I fashioned a tool by regrinding a staple remover and was able to clear out the guts of my pen, making it into an eyedropper (no chance of getting a new cork). Problem now is that the feed is really struggling to keep up a constant flow of ink. The feed will literally run dry after a few lines. I have to shake the pen a bit vigorously to get it going again. Any chance someone knows what the problem is? Has anyone taken apart the nib/feed unit? I was thinking about deepening the feed lines.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Most Contributions

    1. amberleadavis
      amberleadavis
      43844
    2. PAKMAN
      PAKMAN
      33582
    3. Ghost Plane
      Ghost Plane
      28220
    4. inkstainedruth
      inkstainedruth
      26771
    5. jar
      jar
      26105
  • Upcoming Events

  • Blog Comments

    • Shanghai Knife Dude
      I have the Sailor Naginata and some fancy blade nibs coming after 2022 by a number of new workshop from China.  With all my respect, IMHO, they are all (bleep) in doing chinese characters.  Go use a bush, or at least a bush pen. 
    • A Smug Dill
      It is the reason why I'm so keen on the idea of a personal library — of pens, nibs, inks, paper products, etc. — and spent so much money, as well as time and effort, to “build” it for myself (because I can't simply remember everything, especially as I'm getting older fast) and my wife, so that we can “know”; and, instead of just disposing of what displeased us, or even just not good enough to be “given the time of day” against competition from >500 other pens and >500 other inks for our at
    • adamselene
      Agreed.  And I think it’s good to be aware of this early on and think about at the point of buying rather than rationalizing a purchase..
    • A Smug Dill
      Alas, one cannot know “good” without some idea of “bad” against which to contrast; and, as one of my former bosses (back when I was in my twenties) used to say, “on the scale of good to bad…”, it's a spectrum, not a dichotomy. Whereas subjectively acceptable (or tolerable) and unacceptable may well be a dichotomy to someone, and finding whether the threshold or cusp between them lies takes experiencing many degrees of less-than-ideal, especially if the decision is somehow influenced by factors o
    • adamselene
      I got my first real fountain pen on my 60th birthday and many hundreds of pens later I’ve often thought of what I should’ve known in the beginning. I have many pens, the majority of which have some objectionable feature. If they are too delicate, or can’t be posted, or they are too precious to face losing , still they are users, but only in very limited environments..  I have a big disliking for pens that have the cap jump into the air and fly off. I object to Pens that dry out, or leave blobs o
  • Chatbox

    You don't have permission to chat.
    Load More
  • Files






×
×
  • Create New...