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Replacing Pocket Clips


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49 replies to this topic

#41 Autopoint

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Posted 06 February 2011 - 18:53

Here are some tricks I found helpful:

1. Do little damage to the inner cap when removing it, so the nib won't go dry later.

2. Add some thin rubber or tub sealer to the top of the wooden "rest", to keep the eyelet from rotating while drilling it out.

3. Don't lose the brass finishing washer – it's a critical part.

4. If you use Bates long eyelets, file off a little bit of "tube" length before using.

5. Leave the swedging tools/bits long, so they hold fast in the chuck better.

6. Rotate the cap 90 degrees several times, when swedging.

7. During swedging, you can use more pressing force than you'd suspect.
- - - Happy Fixin', Jim

Collector of Autopoint + Realite + Realpoint, and Esterbrook accumulator

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#42 Autopoint

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Posted 06 February 2011 - 19:04

If you want to download this entire "how to" document, simply go to http://vintageautopo...Estie_clips.doc , download the Word document with pictures, and you should have a copy you can locally archive.

Hope you enjoyed the trip.
- - - Jim
Collector of Autopoint + Realite + Realpoint, and Esterbrook accumulator

#43 watchin

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Posted 19 June 2011 - 05:20

Excellent tutorial!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. I know i will follow in your footsteps.

-William-

#44 PenFisher

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Posted 22 June 2011 - 16:57

If you want to download this entire "how to" document, simply go to http://vintageautopo...Estie_clips.doc , download the Word document with pictures, and you should have a copy you can locally archive.

Hope you enjoyed the trip.
- - - Jim


I have followed your thread from the start and all I can say is :notworthy1: Your journey and the subsequent pictorial documentation has been fascinating and extemely helpful in dealing with a very common yet difficult issue in restoring those loose Estie clips. Your time, deligence and patience in making this information available to all of us is greatly appreciated. Very well done! :clap1:

#45 Tom Heath

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Posted 04 July 2011 - 00:10

Jim
Thank you very much for posting all your research and experimentation with the Esty "J" clip issues.


Your attention to detail would make, Ben Franklin or Thomas Edison proud.

I can not wait to try your "solution " to my problem caps.
Tom Heath

penfancier1915@hotmail.com

 

Tom Heath

 

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#46 Autopoint

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Posted 01 November 2011 - 08:26

FWIW, this method is readily repetitive, with reasonably simple tools. So much so that I now pick up every Estie I find with bent pocket clips (they're usually real cheap). Rather than using a metal letter opener to straighten the clip, it makes a much nicer job to remove the clip, bend it to the appropriate angle with my fingers, and re-swedge the clip to the cap. It's not hard work, and does take a little time, but the result is clearly worth the extra effort. Great job for cold winter nights. YMMV.
- - - Happy fixin', Jim
Collector of Autopoint + Realite + Realpoint, and Esterbrook accumulator

#47 ac12

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Posted 11 November 2015 - 23:15

Here is the new link to the document, as provided by the author.
http://vintageautopo...Estie_clips.pdf

Edited by ac12, 11 November 2015 - 23:16.

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#48 Autopoint

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Posted 12 November 2015 - 00:25

Here is the new link to the document, as provided by the author.
http://vintageautopo...Estie_clips.pdf

 

Many thanks for posting that for me.  Hopefully having the entire document together with the related pictures (again) will be helpful to the large Esterbrook community on FPN.  (The document only disappeared due to a change in my web hosting arrangements!)

 - - - Jim


Collector of Autopoint + Realite + Realpoint, and Esterbrook accumulator

#49 Ron Z

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Posted 12 November 2015 - 02:19

The one thing that is missing is that there should be a short pin on the part that flairs out the eyelet.   This prevents the eyelet from buckling in as you flair the end out.  Buckling reduces the ID of the eyelet, making it a bit too small for the pin on the button.

 

The  rod that goes inside has to be steel.  Aluminum is just elastic enough that it will compress as you flair out the eyelet.


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#50 Autopoint

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Posted 12 November 2015 - 10:27

The one thing that is missing is that there should be a short pin on the part that flairs out the eyelet.   This prevents the eyelet from buckling in as you flair the end out.  Buckling reduces the ID of the eyelet, making it a bit too small for the pin on the button.

 

The  rod that goes inside has to be steel.  Aluminum is just elastic enough that it will compress as you flair out the eyelet.

 

I never had that problem, Ron.  Could be that I "swedged" the eyelet more slowly or more carefully, since I was doing it as a really low volume experimental "test process", but none of my eyelets ever buckled or rippled or got crushed.  In fact it was amazing how much force I could apply to flaring out or swedging the eyelets, without the cap of the pen cracking or breaking.  Note that what worked best involved two different shaped tips for "swedging", with completely different tip profiles, and I used them in sequence.  Of course, I also had some good advice how this was done on a production line from Al Kahn, the equipment guy for the Wearever Pen Company.  The key to my success was taking my time and not forcing anything as I worked, and having a "test mule" that I could repeatedly assemble and rip apart.  YMMV.

- - - Jim


Collector of Autopoint + Realite + Realpoint, and Esterbrook accumulator






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