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Photo

Servicing The Filler Of An Omas Extra Faceted


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79 replies to this topic

#1 hari317

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Posted 13 June 2010 - 20:06

I am new to Omas pens and have only recently been able to discover the beauty and writing of these pens. Last week I received two older Omas extra pens NOS, while flushing the pens today, one of the pens spat out a bit of ink from the piston knob end. So I decided to investigate and fix the filler. Here are the pictures:

Posted Image

The section can be unscrewed from the front. After removing section, unscrew the piston knob all the way, the piston seal with the spindle will come out from the section end of the pen. The piston knob will come out from the distal end.

The Piston seal on spindle, faceted barrel and the filler knob.
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One side of the piston rod has a rectangular linear guide which mates with an anti rotation key fixed on the inside of the barrel, a very simple design:
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There was absolutely no lubricant on the piston seal and the spindle threads. There was some mineral oil like substance on the filler knob threads. I used silicone grease on the piston seal and the spindle.

Omas, I found, uses the vintage MB type "feeder case" arrangement to hold the nib and feeder together. A very well made nib. Excellently shaped tip and tapered slit with proper slit gap, all this out of the box! No tuning was required.
Posted Image

Notice the 50's MB like slots on the feeder case.
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However I did not have to use any tools to disassemble the pen. I used Silicone grease at the section threads and for lubing the piston. Ideally a section sealant should be used at the section threads but I did not have any at hand.

The piston filler is simple and hence has its own shortcomings. There is no backlash in the filler mechanism so inadvertent movement of the filler knob has the capability to hork out ink.

In case the piston seal fails completely and no spares are available, I guess the pen can be used as an ED by sealing the piston filler knob.

I hope this will be useful for folks who will face a leaking piston seal.

Cheers!
Hari
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#2 markiv

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Posted 19 June 2010 - 11:31

AVery informative post, Hari. Perhaps we need a dissembly/technical thread to capture post such as these.

Err... did not realize this was pinned already; was on the mobile board scheme.

Edited by markiv, 19 June 2010 - 11:36.

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#3 pyramid

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Posted 22 October 2010 - 01:22

Thanks Hari for the pictures... Great stuff!!!

#4 Raiden

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Posted 17 February 2011 - 18:57

Great information and photos. Got my pen apart, cleaned and reassembled!

#5 Dark_Severus

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Posted 09 April 2011 - 19:03

Thanks for the beautiful pics Hari. Very useful info.

I seem to have leakage issues with my OMAS Extra, especially when the weather is warmer, is this linked?? My MB149 seems to cope fine...is this just a flaw in the OMAS??

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#6 hari317

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Posted 09 April 2011 - 19:30

I seem to have leakage issues with my OMAS Extra, especially when the weather is warmer, is this linked?? My MB149 seems to cope fine...is this just a flaw in the OMAS??


Where does the pen leak from, when it gets warmer? If it is just a slight overflow from the nib while writing, it may be attributed to the relatively simpler feeder used by Omas as compared to the 149. Any other leaks are not normal at all and should be attended to.
Best
Hari

Edited by hari317, 09 April 2011 - 19:30.

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#7 ncdobson

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Posted 06 May 2011 - 16:49

My safron mini-celluloid just started leaking, but I'm not sure whether I'm adventurous enough to try to fix it myself. Did you get the section unscrewed with your bare hands? Is there any trick to getting the nib reseated properly?

#8 hari317

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Posted 10 May 2011 - 11:14

My safron mini-celluloid just started leaking, but I'm not sure whether I'm adventurous enough to try to fix it myself. Did you get the section unscrewed with your bare hands? Is there any trick to getting the nib reseated properly?


Yes, bare hands only, no tools. I recommend leaving the nib and feed undisturbed inside the section, unless they need attention. In case you have to take the nib and feed apart, note the orientation of the feeder case wrt to the nib and feed. better take some detailed "before" pictures, they always help if one is in doubt. There is no specific trick to the nib and feed, they are of regular construction. good luck!
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#9 ncdobson

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Posted 10 May 2011 - 15:21

I will certainly not disassemble the nib and feed if I don't need to. Thanks!

My safron mini-celluloid just started leaking, but I'm not sure whether I'm adventurous enough to try to fix it myself. Did you get the section unscrewed with your bare hands? Is there any trick to getting the nib reseated properly?


Yes, bare hands only, no tools. I recommend leaving the nib and feed undisturbed inside the section, unless they need attention. In case you have to take the nib and feed apart, note the orientation of the feeder case wrt to the nib and feed. better take some detailed "before" pictures, they always help if one is in doubt. There is no specific trick to the nib and feed, they are of regular construction. good luck!



#10 Calabria

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Posted 11 September 2011 - 19:23

This is an amazing post. I had a similar problem with a limited edition ca. 2005 old-style round celluloid pen (pictured), and sent it in. Got it back after 6 months. Maybe someday I will attempt the repair myself.
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#11 APHK

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Posted 16 September 2011 - 12:48

OMG! If only I found this site 6 months ago...I threw away my OMAS (not sure what model but probably Paragon or Extra since it had a piston) that had a jammed piston and nib that became loose.

Thanks for the post Hari.

#12 kauloltran

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Posted 01 November 2011 - 05:49

Can I do this to a new style Omas Milord as well? How exactly do you unscrew the section to access the piston? Thanks


#13 daynix

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Posted 27 March 2012 - 09:47

I agree with the other posts here - a very helpful post. When unscrewing the piston end - I imagine past the point at which the piston disengages in order to emerge from the distal end - then continue turning the piston knob until it comes out completely.

This seems like a very simple system. I admit to being a little fearful of taking apart an expensive pen, but it doesn't appear that difficult. Certainly better than sending it to someone and waiting six months for the repair and return.
Dayne

#14 1962falcon

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Posted 17 July 2012 - 10:21

Hari.... It's two years on from your original post but what a useful and helpful post it is!.....My new to me Paragon Extra arrived recently..... Overall it's in nice condition and has a great nib... but .... it definitely overdue some TLC and a bloody good clean, also, the piston although working seemed over tight and somewhat jerky in its movement [dry] ...I am aware this OMAS piston will never reach Pelikan levels of smoothness ..... Not having had any experience with OMAS I was puzzled how to disassemble the pen, after a search here on FPN your note appeared and the pen is now in bits ready for a well deserved bath in the wife's ultrasonic cleaner. I will reassemble following the advice and techniques aired here..... Thanks Hari and other FPN'ers

#15 hari317

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Posted 17 July 2012 - 10:26

Hari.... It's two years on from your original post but what a useful and helpful post it is!.....My new to me Paragon Extra arrived recently..... Overall it's in nice condition and has a great nib... but .... it definitely overdue some TLC and a bloody good clean, also, the piston although working seemed over tight and somewhat jerky in its movement [dry] ...I am aware this OMAS piston will never reach Pelikan levels of smoothness ..... Not having had any experience with OMAS I was puzzled how to disassemble the pen, after a search here on FPN your note appeared and the pen is now in bits ready for a well deserved bath in the wife's ultrasonic cleaner. I will reassemble following the advice and techniques aired here..... Thanks Hari and other FPN'ers


Thanks for your kind words 1962falcon.
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#16 Rick Propas

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Posted 29 November 2012 - 12:33

If I may add to this thread, one of the weak points of these otherwise wonderful pens (I own more way more than a handful of modern Paragons) is a tendency to leak at the section. This becomes an issue, as well, if you have to work on the piston or seal. OMAS uses a sealant here, but it is often not applied as thoroughly as it might be at the factory and/or is disrupted in disassembly. Lacking that sealant I have found a safe and effective means of sealing the body to section threads.

First lay down a light facing of natural shellac on the section threads. I prefer natural over synthetic as it releases under heat more easily and at lower temperature. Then lay onto the threads a carefully trimmed to fit strip of teflon plumbers tape (don't use more than one thickness or overlap and don't allow any excess, trim to fit as necessary). Wind it against the rotation of the threads, that is counter clockwise. Cover that tape with another light facing of shellac and screw the section into place. If you get messy don't worry, just remove the excess immediately using your fingers, not a cloth or paper. That should do it.

Hope this helps.

#17 enricof

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Posted 06 March 2013 - 06:28

Just FYI, I just found the same technique works fot my Ogiva 557/S pen.

Posted Image


Section was heavily shellac-ed, I had to put the area under hot tap water to release it.

Thanks Hari!


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#18 hari317

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Posted 06 March 2013 - 08:46

Just FYI, I just found the same technique works fot my Ogiva 557/S pen.

Section was heavily shellac-ed, I had to put the area under hot tap water to release it.

Thanks Hari!

Glad to hear that it worked Enrico.
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#19 andrew98

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Posted 17 March 2013 - 21:03

I just bought an Omas Italia '90, and if I ever need to adjust the nib and feed, do they unscrew like a Pelikan nib/feed unit (counterclockwise) or is it a press fit? I'm guessing my Italia '90 has a nib and feed like the pen in the OP above, so the nib and feed would probably just pull out. Can anyone verify that's how the nib and feed are removed? I wouldn't want to try to take anything apart unless I knew for sure how it's done.

-Andy

Edited by andrew98, 18 March 2013 - 05:26.


#20 The Good Captain

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Posted 18 August 2013 - 21:20

I just tried this on my Ogiva demonstrator and it worked perfectly. I used silicone on the section threads when I put it back together, having done the same on the piston seals etc. I won't know how good it's been until I fill it again in a week or so but everything should be safe and sound.


Edited by The Good Captain, 18 August 2013 - 21:21.

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