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Finishing wood bodied pens


BamaPen

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Since wood is porous and likely to get stained by ink if left unsealed, I am wondering what you use to seal/finish wooden pens?

The Moonwalk Pen - honoring Apollo lunar landings
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To get a hard sealed finish I've heard that Tom Mullane (Old Griz) uses Superglue, building up a thick layer and sealing the wood then sanding back to a hard gloss finish.

 

I can't talk from experience because I can't turn wood, having 10 thumbs.

 

Regards,

 

Richard.

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To get a hard sealed finish I've heard that Tom Mullane (Old Griz) uses Superglue, building up a thick layer and sealing the wood then sanding back to a hard gloss finish.

 

I can't talk from experience because I can't turn wood, having 10 thumbs.

 

Regards,

 

Richard.

 

Tom used to use SuperGlue.. but only on my less expensive kit pens back in the early days ...

My later and better grade pens always got a lacquer finish.

Multiple layers of lacquer sprayed on thin while the pen was turning on the lathe. Then allowed to dry for a week in a low humidity area.

Back on the lathe and then polished with Micro-gloss liquid abrasive... I get this from a violin repair shop.

You get deep deep finish with good protection as long as you don't dip the pen in your scotch

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To get a hard sealed finish I've heard that Tom Mullane (Old Griz) uses Superglue, building up a thick layer and sealing the wood then sanding back to a hard gloss finish.

 

I can't talk from experience because I can't turn wood, having 10 thumbs.

 

Regards,

 

Richard.

Be happy - some who can only have 9. :)

Edited by Fuddlestack

When you're good at it, it's really miserable.

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I normally use a cellulose sanding sealer (Maylands thinned with alcohol so it soaks in). I sand that back with 600 & 1000 grit paper and then put on several coats of wipe on polyurethane. Finally, I run through the wheels on my Beal Buffing system.

 

I have also used CA glue but I sometimes don't like the major glossiness of the finish...

Patrick Sikes

The Norsk Woodshop

www.NorskWoodshop.com

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http://ny-image1.etsy.com/il_75x75.122676229.jpg   http://ny-image0.etsy.com/il_75x75.116681716.jpg   http://ny-image1.etsy.com/il_75x75.121813549.jpg

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i finish my pens like tom too, if the customer wants a high gloss finish. if not i use french polish as i prefer the finish should be in the wood and not on it.

after a while you get a natural patina to the wood with your oils in your fingers. i have never had one returned yet.

what my customers want, they get.

Maker Of Fine Handcrafted Writing Instruments

 

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  • 7 months later...

Since wood is porous and likely to get stained by ink if left unsealed, I am wondering what you use to seal/finish wooden pens?

 

 

The debate has been raging in the penturning forums on this subject. My sense is that while there are advocates of wipe-on polyurethane, dipped polyurethane, plexiglass dissolved in acetone, and various lacquer- or shellac-based friction finishes, the majority of wooden pen makers prefer a cyanoacrylate finish (aka CA, or superglue). Properly applied, CA can produce a hard, glass-like finish that is supposed to last the longest of any of the finishing options.

 

That said, however, there is an entirely separate and even more intense debate about HOW to apply a CA finish - thin versus medium versus thick viscosity CA, applied with white paper towel versus blue shop towel versus toilet paper versus zip lock plastic bags, with or without boiled linseed oil, teak oil, tung oil or Danish oil, applying the oil before or after the CA.

 

One might think that pen makers have entirely too much time on their hands.

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Since wood is porous and likely to get stained by ink if left unsealed, I am wondering what you use to seal/finish wooden pens?

 

 

That said, however, there is an entirely separate and even more intense debate about HOW to apply a CA finish - thin versus medium versus thick viscosity CA, applied with white paper towel versus blue shop towel versus toilet paper versus zip lock plastic bags, with or without boiled linseed oil, teak oil, tung oil or Danish oil, applying the oil before or after the CA.

 

One might think that pen makers have entirely too much time on their hands.

 

Of couse, each one of us is right...in our own minds...

 

Time...time to make another pen :lol:

 

Ken

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I want to thank all of you for the fine tips on finishing. I think I agree with Ken as all of them are the right way. Maybe one day I will find the perfect finish for all woods. Thanks again for the tips. Oh, paper towels, CA Glue and friction polish are what I use this week.

Steve

Dip Pens

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm sure some of you probably know Les in Red Deer....at least know of him.

He's a fan of Fast Drying Wipe on Poly. Now this isn't the fastest way to put a finish on a pen, but when it dries....it's like a rock! After all, you walk on your hardwood floor. If I don't need to finish the pen quickly, I prefer this method.

 

But my stand-by is medium CA/BLO times five, MM to 12K, then Plastix polish to a great shine!

 

Lastest group!!!!

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/SDB777/Pens/groupphotoHaroldinCR.jpg

 

 

Scott (too many options) B

Check out the lastest and greatest PR swirled blanks!

You will be blown away by the prices!

 

Slabsblanksandboards.com

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  • 2 weeks later...

it nice to see another person who likes some curves on his pens

 

 

Straight lines on a pen look great if the pen is already large a diameter. The smaller ball points just 'bang' better with a little 'wasp' to them!

 

 

 

Scott (pens like women need some curve to them) B

Check out the lastest and greatest PR swirled blanks!

You will be blown away by the prices!

 

Slabsblanksandboards.com

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