Getting hoods off 51s

[SincerelySpicy]

I've read here and there about repairing 51s, and everywhere it says to take the hood off with a heat gun or blow drier, while being careful not to get the hood too hot.

 

So far, Ive used a heat lamp with an ambient temperature thermometer, but I was thinking, wouldnt it be easier to heat up a glass of water, use a thermometer and cold water to get the temperature to between 140-160 degrees, and dip the pen up to where the shellac is and let it warm up that way? It seems to be safer than heat guns because the temperature is much easier to control.

 

Is there any reason you shouldnt do it this way?

Edited July 22, 2006 by SJM1123

[Gerry]

Some materials don't react well with hot water (for example the plastic on my glasses clouds if exposed to hot water) but if the plastic is ok with it - and 51's, Esties and others are quite ok with it - the method you describe is very good at getting the heat where it is supposed to go. Use it all the time on my Esties.

 

Gerry

[smbaugh]

You could put the pen in a waterproof and heatproof plastic bag to keep the hot water out of it. The kind of bags you cook turkeys in maybe?

 

Frankly, I wouldn't do it myself. You're applying heat to the nib which will transfer to the feed and the collector. It seems that with my little hair dryer I can shoot hot air right at the spot with the threads. I know it's not precise, but with experience, you can get a feel on whether it's hot enough without cooking everything.

 

Just my $0.02.

 

Steve

[Ron Z]

The plastic used in the 51 is lucite, and should be able to handle hot or warm water, unlike the celluloid pens which will turn cloudy. But dry heat is better.

 

Both Richard and I use a heat gun that we bought at A.C. Moore. A similar version (which I also use) is available from Giovanni. It's used for embossing, but works quite well for pen repair as the opening is about 1/2" in diameter and therefore focuses the heat. Up close it's very hot. About 3 inches from the end it's down to around 165 degrees, cooler farther out. (use a thermometer to test yours if you want to know what it does)

 

Warm the area just in front of the clutch ring. Gently try it, and warm it again as many times as it takes to get it loose. It should be WARM, not HOT. i.e. you should be able to hold it for a second or two without burning yourself.

 

I think that a heat gun is the best way to get these apart. I use a 3/4 inch piece of 5/8 fuel line hose slit down the side to grip the shell, and grip with a pair of pliers. The hose gives you traction and prevents marring the shell. I've been doing this for 15 years and have yet to damage a section or shell.

 

Here's a picture of Giovanni's heat gun where it always is - hanging on the side of my bench.

 

http://mainstreetpens.com/images/heatgun.jpg

Edited July 22, 2006 by Ron Z

[Raymond]

Thanks Ron Z. this is what I need to use my heat gun. I always worried that it may damage my pens now I have the information to use it safely.

 

For what it is worth, I have been using hot water bath to heat my Parker 51 shells to unscrew them and so far so good. My guideline is 70 degree C for 30 minutes and it has opened quite a few stuck 51 hoods for me.

 

It would not work on one of my supposedly brandnew Parker 21 though, but I was being very cautious in pushing the heating because the 21 plastic is not as good as the 51s. (May be the heat gun will work.)

[Ron Z]

It would not work on one of my supposedly brandnew Parker 21 though, but I was being very cautious in pushing the heating because the 21 plastic is not as good as the 51s.  (May be the heat gun will work.)

Warning! Editorial comment!!! <_<

 

I've had a few 21s. I like to say that I've never seen a 21 that isn't cracked, isn't about to crack, or at hasn't at least thought about cracking! :bonk:

 

Do be careful if you're going to repair one. They can break so easily.

[Raymond]

Yes Ron.

 

It was "warming". I sit corrected. I will try the "warm" gun method next time. Thanks again for the info. It sounds like fun.

 

Regarding the Parker 21, fortunately, I have not gotten one that is cracked. I have 5 of them, and all of them are excellent writers, after some nib-tweaking of course. They were my dream pens when I was in grade school. Never got one then so now I like to get a few just to brighten that dark side of my childhood.

 

Mind you, I did have a late model 21 Super melted on me though. I left it in my car during a hot sunny summer afternoon in the 1970s and a couple of hours later, I found out that the hood had melted, with indentation made by the clutch springs.

[Mac In Oak Ridge]

Both Richard and I use a heat gun that we bought at A.C. Moore. 

http://mainstreetpens.com/images/heatgun.jpg

I got a AC Moore 40% off cupon in yesterday's newspaper and bought one for a little less than $13. Nice unit.

[Raymond]

Hi Mac , or Ron:

 

Can you tell me what is the power on the heat gun you bought from A.C. Moore, please? There is no A.C. Moore in Canada so I am looking for something comparable. I am a bit worry about using my high power paint-striping heat gun with a big nozzle.

 

Thanks in advance.

[Richard]

I've had a few 21s.  I like to say that I've never seen a 21 that isn't cracked, isn't about  to crack, or at hasn't at least thought about cracking!

Not true. I have four: a Mark I, two Mark IIs, and a Super. None of them has cracked or is even considering cracking. And you've met all four of them. So there. Neener neener.

 

http://www.richardspens.com/images/collection/zoomed/21_red.jpg

 

This is the Mark I. Lovely pen.

[OldGriz]

Like Richard I have a couple of 21s.... the only one that had a cracked hood came that way, but I was able to get a replacement.

None of the 21s I have are cracked or even look like they will... and they all write very nicely...

If someone is looking for a 51 and can't afford one, I would definately recommend a 21 Super.....

If you just want a 51 look alike the other 21s are also fantastic writers...

[Johnny Appleseed]

I have never actually taken off a 51 hood, though I have an aerometric that I am working my way up to.

 

However I did want to post a link to a bit by David Nishimura, whose opinions I value as much as Richard and Ron here. He seems to think the hot water bath a little safer for 51s (or at least he did ten years ago when he wrote this), though it sounds like a minor edge.

 

Some Notes on Repair of the Parker 51 [1996]

 

Not that I wish to disagree with Richard or Ron, which I am wholly unqualified to do. I just find it's best to read as many viewpoints as possible on a repair issue.

 

Also, be sure to read, and re-read David's article:

 

Pen Repair Don'ts

 

Just about every time I have screwed up a pen repair, it was when I was not following these guidelines.

 

John

[Mac In Oak Ridge]

Hi Mac , or Ron:

 

Can you tell me what is the power on the heat gun you bought from A.C. Moore, please?  There is no A.C. Moore in Canada so I am looking for something comparable.  I am a bit worry about using my high power paint-striping heat gun with a big nozzle.

 

Thanks in advance.

On mine is the following:

 

120Vac 60Hz 320W

 

If you don't have AC Moore Stores how about Hobby Lobby or any hobby store that sells stuff for scrap book people. I don't understand the scrap book thing but there is a whole lot of stuff sold to people who "do" them. The heat gun is used for fusing stuff to paper.

 

Regards,

Mac

Edited July 28, 2006 by Mac In Oak Ridge

[Raymond]

Thanks Mac in Oak Ridge:

 

Holy Macaronni! Mine is 1200W and the low heat setting is 750 degrees F.

Obviously not useful for pen repair.

 

I think I better get a "warm" gun like Ron said.

[Raymond]

It is me again. A question to Richard.

 

Didn't you say in your website that the Parker 21 Mark I tends to blob?

How often does that happen? To the degree that affects writing?

 

I recently got a Mark II Parker 21 for the first time. I think the design is very clever. The 21 Super just copied the 51, but the Mark II was very neat. Are there any problem with the Mark II that promp them to make the 21 Super?

 

I was under the impression, probably from your article or somewhere, that the 21 Mark II and the 21 Super were marketed at the same time. Was that true or just me imagining things?

 

Thanks and Cheers

[Dillo]

I've had a few 21s.  I like to say that I've never seen a 21 that isn't cracked, isn't about  to crack, or at hasn't at least thought about cracking!

Not true. I have four: a Mark I, two Mark IIs, and a Super. None of them has cracked or is even considering cracking. And you've met all four of them. So there. Neener neener.

 

http://www.richardspens.com/images/collection/zoomed/21_red.jpg

 

This is the Mark I. Lovely pen.

Hi,

 

And I fixed numerous uncracked 21s.

 

Dillon

[HyperCamper]

I'd like to add a similar question.

 

I have this Navy Grey Mark I "51". In the past someone has been tampering with it since I can see indents caused by pliers on the metal casing inside.

 

Honestly, I don't know what he or she has used for sealing, but the hood won't budge. Maybe tar, real cement or maybe he or she simply melted the inside together?

 

I've had it submerged in water of about 70 C (in a thermos) for an hour twice: wouldn't budge. Tried pliers gently but this didn't yield any results and I'm afraid that I'll damage the pen when I us more force.

 

It's really getting on my nerves... Any suggestions... help... :bonk:

[JimStrutton]

It's really getting on my nerves... Any suggestions... help... :bonk:

I think maybe the time has come to send it to somebody or risk wrecking it IMHO.

 

You could maybe try a bit hotter, but that is a clutch at straws. You might need to get a complete rebuild and some new parts, so I would think about it were it mine.

 

Jim

[HyperCamper]

I think maybe the time has come to send it to somebody or risk wrecking it IMHO.

I agree. It's just that I want to learn how to do this myself...

 

The other "51"'s I typed about in te "how long for shellac to dry"-post had the same problem, but eventually the hoods came of. This one's seems to be a lot mure stubborn.

 

I'll do my best not to damage it and any suggestions are welcome.

[OldGriz]

As Jim and learned years ago ...

There is nothing that can not be cured with the appropriate application of high explosives.....

 

Unfortunately... pens do not fall in this catagory (unless you are working in "THE LAB").... take it easy with the heat and multiple applications may be needed to finally melt the shellac or whatever is holding it in place...