How to remove sticker residue from pen barrel?

[Arts11]

I just received a Pilot Prera in the mail today, but when I tried removing the barrel sticker, it left that repugnant sticker residue behind. I tried removing it with some water and tissue paper but it seems to have just spread around the glue. I then used just a drop of acetone on a cloth, but now the area where I wiped feels rougher and it's lost its sheen. Did I just permanently damage my pen? Is there anyway to restore it's sheen? How should I remove that sticker residue next time?

[Chthulhu]

Yes, you did damage the pen's finish: acetone and non-metal parts of fountain pens don't mix.

 

I remove sticker adhesive by patiently rubbing at it with my thumb until it comes off.

[inkyfingr]

I usually use ethanol or isopropanol (rubbing alcohol).

[Pippin60]

I use something called "Goo Gone" is citrus based and safe on plastic. I've never had a problme with it. It may take a few applications if its stubbrun but I use it on everything. Its pretty easy to find around most household products.

[Arts11]

Yes, you did damage the pen's finish: acetone and non-metal parts of fountain pens don't mix.

 

I remove sticker adhesive by patiently rubbing at it with my thumb until it comes off.

Ah dang it. It's not very noticeable except when you're actually feeling it or if you try to reflect light off it [it's just matte]. I was planning on using the Prera as my workhorse anyway, so I was expecting it to get banged up, but it still sucks that it's already gotten its first "battle scars," almost immediately out of the box. At least the nib is good. Out of curiosity, is there any relatively inexpensive way to try and restore the finish?

[timthepenman]

baby oil on a cotton pad (the kind my wife uses to remove make-up)

[Ron Z]

Alcohol can and will damage some plastics like celluloid. I have had Goo Gone damage some materials. Some of the "safe" orange cleaners can in fact melt some plastics or damage finishes.

 

In 20 years of pen work however, I have never had lighter fluid, which is naphtha, damage a pen.... at all, ever. Yes, I do still have some pens on which it was used 20 years ago. It works, and is used by many other pen repairers as well.

 

Baby oil is mineral oil, and quite thick. The advantage to naphtha is that it is very light, and evaporates very quickly.

Edited November 23, 2009 by Ron Z

[Arts11]

Alcohol can and will damage some plastics like celluloid. I have had Goo Gone damage some materials. Some of the "safe" orange cleaners can in fact melt some plastics or damage finishes.

 

In 20 years of pen work however, I have never had lighter fluid, which is naphtha, damage a pen.... at all, ever. Yes, I do still have some pens on which it was used 20 years ago. It works, and is used by many other pen repairers as well.

 

Baby oil is mineral oil, and quite thick. The advantage to naphtha is that it is very light, and evaporates very quickly.

Interesting. I'll have to keep lighter fluid in mind for next time. Does it leave any sort of smell or oily feel after you apply it [like do you have to wipe it off or will letting it evaporate be safe enough]?

[gemu]

Many thanks for the hints, but what to do when it seems that the glue of the label already resolved the plastic surface under it?

 

gemu

[jmw19]

Back when I bought CDs, a number of them came with extra anti-opening seals under the plastic wrap. These often left sticky residue behind, and the fragile nature of the jewel cases precluded much rubbing with solvents.

A trick I read about, and used to much success, is simply rubbing clear cellulose tape (aka Scotch Tape) over the residue and peeling off. It generally took a few tries to remove all the residue, but once it was gone, it was gone.

[Ron Z]

I'll have to keep lighter fluid in mind for next time. Does it leave any sort of smell or oily feel after you apply it [like do you have to wipe it off or will letting it evaporate be safe enough?

 

You can wipe it off, and anything left behind will evaporate very quickly. You do notice a smell when using it, but it too dissipates very quickly. If you're concerned (and I don't think one needs to be) you can wash the barrel with a little mild soap and water, then rinse.

 

Dripped onto and allowed to sit on dried adhesive, naphtha will soften the adhesive in a matter of a few minutes.

[OcalaFlGuy]

I then used just a drop of acetone on a cloth, but now the area where I wiped feels rougher and it's lost its sheen. Did I just permanently damage my pen? Is there anyway to restore it's sheen?

 

I don't what what area of the pen had the sticker on it, but assuming it was some UN-knurled area, I would use some Simichrome to try and restore the shineynicitiness.

 

And next time, assuming you are in the US and can get it easily and you don't have any lighter fluid, use pure (or pretty strongly diluted) Ammonia on the sticker glue. Much safer than alcohol.

 

Bruce in Ocala, FL

[Arts11]

I then used just a drop of acetone on a cloth, but now the area where I wiped feels rougher and it's lost its sheen. Did I just permanently damage my pen? Is there anyway to restore it's sheen?

 

I don't what what area of the pen had the sticker on it, but assuming it was some UN-knurled area, I would use some Simichrome to try and restore the shineynicitiness.

 

And next time, assuming you are in the US and can get it easily and you don't have any lighter fluid, use pure (or pretty strongly diluted) Ammonia on the sticker glue. Much safer than alcohol.

 

Bruce in Ocala, FL

The sticker was on the upper part of the barrel near the area where it join with the section (and under where the cap sat). It doesn't bother me when I'm writing b/c I dont grip in that area, but when I'm just holding the pen, I can feel the difference in texture. It's not really rough, it's just not as smooth as the rest of the barrel [which has that slick feel]. The best comparison I can make is that it sorta has a paper texture, where it's smooth, but not slippery.

[gross]

I know this is going to sound stupid, but the hand sanitizers that are everywhere now will take the label and glue off without any damage to the pen. Most do have some form of alcohol in them, but this is in a gel form. Don't use more than you need and act as if it was going to melt the pen barrel. Off will come the label and the glue and, so far, no damage with only a slight smell that is quickly gone. I was given a pump bottle of this stuff a year or so ago. All I use it for is to remove sticky labels. I have removed some from pens without damage.

 

I do strongly advise against using this on your hands as it tends to make you more susceptible to the germs it supposedly combats. Plain old hand soap, used well and often, will do the same job and not weaken your immunity nor strengthen the germs' immunity.

[Rabbit]

I do strongly advise against using this on your hands as it tends to make you more susceptible to the germs it supposedly combats. Plain old hand soap, used well and often, will do the same job and not weaken your immunity nor strengthen the germs' immunity.

Getting off topic here... Regular soap like you said is a great way to remove dirt and germs from hands. As far as I know, it's much safer to use alcohol based hand sanitizer than antibacterial soap though because of the reasons you listed. From what I've heard, the alcohol destroys the germs differently than the agent in antibacteria soap (Triclosan) and doesn't seem to cause as much "resistance" as does Triclosan. I'm glad that you said "used well" because most people don't properly wash their hands--either they don't do it long enough, or they miss very larger areas (typically the backs of their hands and in between fingers). It's probably more effective to use hand sanitizer than to wash your hands incorrectly. There's also some debate about the health of your skin if you wash your hands repeatedly. If your hands are getting dry and cracked, you're creating openings in your natural barrier (skin) that will make you more vulnerable to germs. Some kind of moisturizer is always a good thing. Many hospitals and universities though are approving the use of alcohol based hand sanitizers in their protocols as an alternative to hand washing as long as the hands are not soiled and have been washed at the beginning of the shift.

 

Back on topic....

...Is there anyway to restore it's sheen?...

If the defect doesn't go too deep, you might be able to polish the area with the various pen polishig methods. If you do it too much though in just this one area, you might create a flat spot on the pen or make a probably small defect worse and more noticable. The key is to match your polish with the sheen of the rest of the pen. Might be worth a try though if the original defect bothers you and you keep the situation controlled.

 

--Stephen

Edited November 23, 2009 by Rabbit

[Arts11]

Back on topic....

...Is there anyway to restore it's sheen?...

If the defect doesn't go too deep, you might be able to polish the area with the various pen polishig methods. If you do it too much though in just this one area, you might create a flat spot on the pen or make a probably small defect worse and more noticable. The key is to match your polish with the sheen of the rest of the pen. Might be worth a try though if the original defect bothers you and you keep the situation controlled.

 

--Stephen

I'd consider trying to re-polish my new pen, but at the same time, now that I think about it, the damage isn't that dissimilar to if the pen were accidentally scuffed against the ground. I mean, the damage being there so soon is what really irks me, but given how I'll potentially use the pen, it might not be worth it to try and re-polish it, unless I was doing it as practice for another pen. Still, I am considering it, so do you have any polishing method guides or polishes that you'd recommend?

[Rabbit]

I'd consider trying to re-polish my new pen, but at the same time, now that I think about it, the damage isn't that dissimilar to if the pen were accidentally scuffed against the ground. I mean, the damage being there so soon is what really irks me, but given how I'll potentially use the pen, it might not be worth it to try and re-polish it, unless I was doing it as practice for another pen. Still, I am considering it, so do you have any polishing method guides or polishes that you'd recommend?

I have purchased some polishing supplies from Tryphon, but because I'm still in the experimental/learning phase too, you'll probably get a better answer from someone else who is more experienced than I am.

 

--Stephen

Edited November 23, 2009 by Rabbit

[Brianm_14]

RonZ is spot on as usual. Old thread but great advice! You don't need much, so a lighter fluid can is a handy applicator.

 

Naphtha is a great, safe adhesive remover. Clinically, in both medical and veterinary settings, it can be used to remove stubborn medical adhesive tape, even -especially- the older, really tough stuff. Just don't use near open flames or very hot surfaces.

 

I'd give the affected area a quick, very light polishing with Flitz, Simichrome, etc. on a microfiber cloth, to blend it in. Or let time and daily handling do that for you.

 

Sorry to hear of your mishap. Always frustrating when we unintentionally screw up a nice, new item.