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Regarding Esterbrook repairs...


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45 replies to this topic

#21 OcalaFlGuy

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 00:36

Keeping the little eraser thangummer straight when inserting the j-bar is easypeasy with a little trick.

(I do this with the iddybiddy little spacers in SJ's so I know it works pretty good.)

It's easy to overthink it.

Work on the level.

Hold the barrel horizontal, put the eraser in on the lip of it the way you want it and use a pusher stick (see Race-trac coffee stirrer or 1/3 (width wise) of a pop-sicle stick) to push it in carefully and slowly to the bottom of the barrel. Once there, *keep the barrel horizontal* to keep it in place. Put the j-bar back in with the barrel horizontal until the bar goes up against the spacer and holds it. Prestomongo.

Bruce in Ocala, FL

Edited by OcalaFlGuy, 18 September 2009 - 00:37.


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#22 ladyinthemists

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 00:56

Somehow I just knew that you'd have the answer to this little dilemma, Bruce Posted Image...thanks!

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#23 FarmBoy

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 02:17

Todd, I think that was a _medium_ root beer streaker, with a 7/10 streakiness rating.

I am ready to believe you about no navy 101. Are you saying no A101, or neither the A nor the CA?
The closest I've ever come (in lots of looking) is an oddly discolored light blue pen that was much darker than usual, but still not navy.

Regards, greg

Greg,

I think there were no A or CA 101s in the Navy blue color. I've got an ad that lists 5 colors and Navy isn't one of them. Now Brian has one but then he has more than one Esterbrook one-of-a-kind pens so could it be a faded black OR ? I've speculated that there could have been an odd formulation of material going into the mold machine. Sort of how one may have gotten the odd reddish jewels. As for that ad, I'll see if I can find it, I'm currently digging through Parker ads to resolve that VS really does meaning.

Oh after calibrating my new Mac book That is only a 6.5/10 streaker.

Todd
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#24 OcalaFlGuy

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 02:43

Oh after calibrating my new Mac book That is only a 6.5/10 streaker.

Todd


Leave it to *you* to muck it the works.

Could be a fairly serious disparity between your 6.5 and Greg's 7.0. I remember reading that true verified Streaker status
wasn't conveyed until it graded out at least a 7.0 on the Streakernicitiness scale.

If Greg has the actual specimen, I guess his "hands on" would trump your CG'd evaluation FB.

Bruce in Ocala, FL

#25 gregamckinney

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 03:01


Oh after calibrating my new Mac book That is only a 6.5/10 streaker.

Todd


Leave it to *you* to muck it the works.

Could be a fairly serious disparity between your 6.5 and Greg's 7.0. I remember reading that true verified Streaker status
wasn't conveyed until it graded out at least a 7.0 on the Streakernicitiness scale.

If Greg has the actual specimen, I guess his "hands on" would trump your CG'd evaluation FB.

Bruce in Ocala, FL


The streakerificness was bothering me, so I sanded it down until it is an even dull brown throughout. Problem solved.
greg
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#26 FarmBoy

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 03:36


Oh after calibrating my new Mac book That is only a 6.5/10 streaker.

Todd


Leave it to *you* to muck it the works.

Could be a fairly serious disparity between your 6.5 and Greg's 7.0. I remember reading that true verified Streaker status
wasn't conveyed until it graded out at least a 7.0 on the Streakernicitiness scale.

If Greg has the actual specimen, I guess his "hands on" would trump your CG'd evaluation FB.

Bruce in Ocala, FL


The streakerificness was bothering me, so I sanded it down until it is an even dull brown throughout. Problem solved.
greg

You both realize a TRUE Streaker would BUFF right out.

Todd


YES, I had to.
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#27 ladyinthemists

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 14:55

I just took a look at the Wood Bin and found the following items:
- size 16 ink sac - $1.45 each
- sac shellac - $4.00
- 100% pure talc - $10.00 (!!!)
- 54mm "J" bar - $3.50
- extra small "J" bar, 40mm = $1.25 (would this size work for a pastel Estie?)

I tried to pull up Richard's Pens for comparison prices but for some reason I could not get the site to work for me and direct me to where I wanted to look.

I think I need to find an alternate source of talc!

(NOTE: I am not affiliated with any pen repair items source whatsoever)

Edited by ladyinthemists, 18 September 2009 - 14:56.

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#28 FarmBoy

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 15:00

I just took a look at the Wood Bin and found the following items:
- size 16 ink sac - $1.45 each
- sac shellac - $4.00
- 100% pure talc - $10.00 (!!!)
- 54mm "J" bar - $3.50
- extra small "J" bar, 40mm = $1.25 (would this size work for a pastel Estie?)

I tried to pull up Richard's Pens for comparison prices but for some reason I could not get the site to work for me and direct me to where I wanted to look.

I think I need to find an alternate source of talc!

(NOTE: I am not affiliated with any pen repair items source whatsoever)

Yes on the 40 mm J-bar.

You could try www.tryphon.it for supplies.
San Francisco International Pen Show - They have dates! August 23-24-25, 2019 AND August 28-29-30, 2020. Book your travel and tables now! My PM box is usually full. Just email me: my last name at the google mail address.

#29 ladyinthemists

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 16:03

Thanks, Todd, I see that they have pure talc for $1.50 which is much more in my price range. They also have a couple of other items I would like to have your opinion on:
- 1 oz.Polish Kit (includes three 1 oz. dispenser bottles with Tryphon Scratch Remover, Tryphon Pen Polish and Tryphon Pen Cleaner-Protectant) - $15.00
- Pen Barrel Brush - $2.50
Would these be good items for me to also get?

(NOTE: I am not affiliated with any pen repair items source whatsoever)

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#30 FarmBoy

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 18:06

Thanks, Todd, I see that they have pure talc for $1.50 which is much more in my price range. They also have a couple of other items I would like to have your opinion on:
- 1 oz.Polish Kit (includes three 1 oz. dispenser bottles with Tryphon Scratch Remover, Tryphon Pen Polish and Tryphon Pen Cleaner-Protectant) - $15.00
- Pen Barrel Brush - $2.50
Would these be good items for me to also get?

(NOTE: I am not affiliated with any pen repair items source whatsoever)

I like the barrel brushes, I don't remember where mine came from but they make cap cleaning easy.

The polish kit is worth getting if you have no other polishing materials. I have all sorts of polishing stuff and I go in spurts as to what I use but the Tryphon stuff works fine and it is known to be pen safe. He also sends along a guide of what to use on each type of pen.

I also like the pen wax.
Todd
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#31 OcalaFlGuy

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Posted 18 September 2009 - 21:52

- Pen Barrel Brush - $2.50
Would these be good items for me to also get?

(NOTE: I am not affiliated with any pen repair items source whatsoever)


The pen barrel brush from Tryphon is too big around for Estie barrels and caps. I do however use it along with a toothbrush to clean out barrel threads.

If you don't have a ultrasonic cleaner (ammonia water and one of those is the kitties jammies for caps) GOOD QUALTY (not the cheap stuff) twisted tight paper towel "spears", dawn dish detergent and ammonia water for caps and barrels. (Dawn is just an exceptional cleaner/degreaser while still being pretty mild for my lady like hands.)

The cheapest way out is;

sacs from either Tryphon or Pendemonium
shellac from Pendemonium with an ink or paper order
talc from the pool hall or Tryphon
j-bars from either Pendemonium or Tryphon
hemostats from the on-line scissor place I posted earlier
j-bar push sticks/scrapers from Race-trac c-store coffee stirrers or cut in half, squared off and shaved down pop-cicle sticks.

Bruce in Ocala, FL

#32 gross

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Posted 19 September 2009 - 05:13

If it is not too late to suggest this, to save a couple of dollars you might use some clear (I don't guess it has to be clear) fingernail polish instead of buying the shellac. I don't want to cut into anyone's business and if you are going to restore your own pens always, go a head and get the shellac. But, if you want to get into this a bit more slowly, you can try the fingernail polish. I used it for a year or two before I bought my first shellac. And that dental-pick-looking-thing that you use to pick the meat out of a back walnut or a pecan works great to clean out dried sac bits and to drag out broken bar pieces. I know it is not purist type advice, but when you are first starting. If you don't have a pair of section pliers, you can fix a pair of cheap pliers with some tubing to cover the teeth. A pair of old fashioned spark plug pliers from some junk store work great. None of this is new with me, but I have forgotten over the years who told me what.
-gross

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#33 ladyinthemists

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Posted 19 September 2009 - 20:39

I just got of the telephone with Tryphon. I ordered all of the following items from them:
- 4 ink sacs @ $2.00 each
- sac cement (shellac) $7.00
- 100% pure talc $1.50
- 54mm "J" bar $3.50
I hope I've ordered everything I'll be needing to replace my ink sacs and the one j-bar that I'm sure needs replacing. I happen to already have a pair of hemostats that I think will work (hubby does electrical repair stuff with them). I have small crochet needles (with the small hooks on the ends) that I think should work out if I should need them. I hope that I've remembered everything that you much more knowledgeable folks have advised me to have on hand. I can hardly wait to get my beloved pens back into working order very soon. I'm getting excited thinking about it! I hope that, should I run into any problems (heavens forbid!), you will all be around to steer me back in the right direction. Thanks to all of you for being so helpful to a very novice "pen repair person" who has never done this before.

(NOTE: I am not affiliated with any pen repair items source whatsoever)

She who laughs, lasts 


#34 OcalaFlGuy

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Posted 19 September 2009 - 21:31

I think you have the shopping list nailed.

On the sacs, I suggest you measure on them 1 15/16" and mark with a fine sharpie or the like THEN use a pair of VERY SHARP scissors to cut along the line. That will have you get the exact length more likely the first try without wasteing a sac.
To be sure, you can always cut LONG of your cut here line and work down seeing exactly where the scissors cut. You can always cut more off, you CAN'T Add To what you DID cut off...

Bruce in Ocala, FL

#35 ZeissIkon

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Posted 19 September 2009 - 22:29

Keeping the little eraser thangummer straight when inserting the j-bar is easypeasy with a little trick.


I knew someone would have a better way than a knitting needle and silicone adhesive. My job is full of little tricks like this (for *this* model, you have to hold the whole tool upside down and lower it into the front housing, so the inner bushing doesn't fall out on the floor, but for *that* one, you have to assemble the whole thing into the housing because it won't stay together to lower it in), but I don't know most of the good ones for fountain pens yet...
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#36 ZeissIkon

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Posted 19 September 2009 - 22:34

If it is not too late to suggest this, to save a couple of dollars you might use some clear (I don't guess it has to be clear) fingernail polish instead of buying the shellac. I don't want to cut into anyone's business and if you are going to restore your own pens always, go a head and get the shellac. But, if you want to get into this a bit more slowly, you can try the fingernail polish.


Very strongly not recommended -- the solvent in some nail polishes can attack celluloid.

BTW, I'd point out that if you live in the USA and order from Wood Bin, you'll pay a 3% currency exchange fee to his bank, and another to your own, and then you might have two wait two weeks or more for your package to clear US customs. I think PayPal will reduce the exchange fee (it'll eliminate it if he has a US dollar PayPal account), and the Customs delay is semi-random. They don't always stop packages.
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#37 OcalaFlGuy

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Posted 19 September 2009 - 22:50

Keeping the little eraser thangummer straight when inserting the j-bar is easypeasy with a little trick.


I knew someone would have a better way than a knitting needle and silicone adhesive. My job is full of little tricks like this (for *this* model, you have to hold the whole tool upside down and lower it into the front housing, so the inner bushing doesn't fall out on the floor, but for *that* one, you have to assemble the whole thing into the housing because it won't stay together to lower it in), but I don't know most of the good ones for fountain pens yet...


Now, chapter # pi for those that not only KNOW there is a dash between "anal" and "retentive" but make sure it's in there when they write the words... :P

(Now, I'm sure the BigDawgs just eyeball the j-bar as it goes in and ittybitty it until it's just in the perfect spot, but for those that are going to actually put the eraser back in and USE it for the spacer...)

Before you pull the j-bar, hit the inside of the bottom of the barrel with your nuke light and note the orientation of that eraser. Even on the little biddy one in the SJ it DOES make a difference. <Probably makes a BIGGER difference still on the real sized eraser in the LJ> If you put it back in sideways with the flat ends against the side of the barrel, it's going to be just enough that the lever will come forward about 100 deg. insted of straight up and down. Put it back in the same way it was.

Bruce in Ocala, FL

#38 FarmBoy

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Posted 19 September 2009 - 23:12

(Now, I'm sure the BigDawgs just eyeball the j-bar as it goes in and ittybitty it until it's just in the perfect spot,...
Bruce in Ocala, FL

Are you now implying we need to actually look at the pen's guts?

Todd
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#39 kps

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Posted 20 September 2009 - 01:29

To be sure, you can always cut LONG of your cut here line and work down seeing exactly where the scissors cut. You can always cut more off, you CAN'T Add To what you DID cut off...

On the other hand, a sac that's a quarter inch too long will bunch up in the pen, but a sac that's a quarter inch too short will only cost you a tenth of a millilitre ink capacity.
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#40 kps

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Posted 20 September 2009 - 01:37

BTW, I'd point out that if you live in the USA and order from Wood Bin, you'll pay a 3% currency exchange fee to his bank, and another to your own, and then you might have two wait two weeks or more for your package to clear US customs. I think PayPal will reduce the exchange fee (it'll eliminate it if he has a US dollar PayPal account), and the Customs delay is semi-random. They don't always stop packages.

Woodbin's PayPal is in US dollars (like the prices on their web site), so there's no conversion cost for Americans.

I'd guess that the US has an official exemption threshold for low-value imports, but have no idea what it is (here it's $20 for commercial goods).
“As we leave the Moon at Taurus-Littrow, we leave as we came, and God willing, as we shall return, with peace and hope for all mankind.”Gene Cernan, 14 December 1972






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