2month UV Fade Test

[Aimsport]

I'm taking it for granted I suppose that the left hand side was covered in some way or another to save the ink from exposure to the uv light?

 

I'm surprised by the Whaleman and the Baystate Blue doing so poorly.

 

I'm impressed by the Borealis doing moderately well.

I too am surprised by the Whaleman's sepia, but suspect that it's due to not shaking the ink before use. My experience has shown the color to be much darker than what is shown on the left, and also that this dark color is prone to separating and falling out of suspension. A recent accident with a pen and pants pocket, as well as some water tests, leads me to believe that it is the black portion that falls out of suspension that contains the bulletproof qualities, even if washing leaves behind the red color. Perhaps I'm wrong?

 

Each ink shaken and swirled vigorously. The Whaleman sepia is from a batch purchased in early March from Jetpens. That batch looks different than other members' scans.

 

Left hand side was folded back and covered from both sides in fully opaque material.

[Firefyter-Emt]

Awesome retention of my favorite stand by, Legal Lapis! I am really amazed that the BSB was gone! Whit the "issues" that come up so often with staining, and how it hangs in on your fingers, I would of thought that ink to hang in there like a pit-bull.

[Dip n Scratch]

The colour of Bay State Blue is fantastic. It stains the converter of a pen instantly & does not wash out. The awful fade performance is a nasty sting in the tail after paying a premium price.

Better to stick with something cheap like Jinhao Blue & extract the ink from the cartridges with a syringe & blunt tip.

Obviously if one wanted a really fade-resistant ink we need something with carbon black or ferro-gall in the formula.

[Morphling27]

The colour of Bay State Blue is fantastic. It stains the converter of a pen instantly & does not wash out. The awful fade performance is a nasty sting in the tail after paying a premium price.

Better to stick with something cheap like Jinhao Blue & extract the ink from the cartridges with a syringe & blunt tip.

Obviously if one wanted a really fade-resistant ink we need something with carbon black or ferro-gall in the formula.

The original post with the fade test has a black ink with carbon in it (hence the name).

 

Also, are you meaning a figurative way to pay the price with BSB? I won't disagree with that, but otherwise Noodler's inks are a very good $/mL.