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Full Version: How to change a nib on a Sheaffer Craftsman lever-filler?
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Readymade
(Sorry if I'm posting in the wrong forum)

Received a Sheaffer Craftsman today, lever-filler, with #33 nib.

The nib seems to have lost all its tipping, and is really scratchy.

Was thinking of replacing the nib.

How do I go about removing the nib from the section?

Thanks in advance.
grimakis
Grip and Pull... or your could remove the section and use a knockout block...
Ernst Bitterman
If gripping and pulling, give it a soak first, and really only proceed if the point is a little loose anyway. I've got several Sheaffers with no tipping left because, I suspect, people were yonking on the point to remove it.

Another interim measure is to smooth the remaining material into a useable writer-- it's damaged already, and if you don't go mad you can in theory one day send it away for re-tipping.
Readymade
QUOTE (Ernst Bitterman @ Aug 13 2008, 02:51 AM) *
If gripping and pulling, give it a soak first, and really only proceed if the point is a little loose anyway. I've got several Sheaffers with no tipping left because, I suspect, people were yonking on the point to remove it.

Another interim measure is to smooth the remaining material into a useable writer-- it's damaged already, and if you don't go mad you can in theory one day send it away for re-tipping.


Just to clarify -- by "grip and pull" you mean: I grip the nib and section together, and just pull away from the section? That's it?

The pen's got a sac attached. Do I have to remove the sac first?

And umm... how do I put everything back together? Do I simply push it back?

The tipping looks like it's all gone. Not much to smooth there...

I was thinking of trying to grind the nib into a stub.

Not sure about re-tipping. I understand it's expensive and I don't really want to spend all that much on this one pen.

@grimakis: don't have a knockout block unfortunately...
Kelly G
Building a knockout block is quite simple - get a block of wood - drill some holes. Or, I use a tall socket with a drill gauge. I need to drill a block of wood to rest the drill gauge on, but haven't taken the time.
Ernst Bitterman
By grip'n'pull, it's more usual to mean the point on its own, which is held in a little less firmly than the feed and which acts as a wedge to keep the feed in place. I use "wedge" for purpose, because sometimes its as easy to remove the wedge that keeps an axe-head in place. A knock-out block is better.
Readymade
QUOTE (Ernst Bitterman @ Aug 13 2008, 10:45 PM) *
By grip'n'pull, it's more usual to mean the point on its own, which is held in a little less firmly than the feed and which acts as a wedge to keep the feed in place. I use "wedge" for purpose, because sometimes its as easy to remove the wedge that keeps an axe-head in place. A knock-out block is better.


OK, thanks! Just found Ron Zorn's great page on how to make your own knockout block and other tools cheaply.

http://www.mainstreetpens.com/articles/cheaptools_1.htm
teej47
If you carefully push the nib from side to side with your fingers you should be able to work it free from the section. This will often leave the feed just loose enough that you can pull it straight out fairly easily. If the tipping is broken off already there's not much risk of messing up the nib. BUT... be very very careful! If you can't wiggle the nib without working at it very much, you should not proceed. My own (somewhat painful) experience is that vintage Sheaffer feeds tend to be fragile and kind of brittle. My still-fairly-small collection is mainly Sheaffers and Eversharps. I've broken 4 or 5 Sheaffer feeds and no Eversharps... and not because I've been any rougher with the Eversharps. If it doesn't move without much effort, by all means wait until you have a knockout block. And whatever you do, don't get any ideas about how section pliers might be helpful (for anything having to do with a nib or feed, that is). No details that I care to share... just believe me headsmack.gif

Tim
(still in the market for spare mid-century Sheaffer feeds...)
Ron Z
QUOTE (teej47 @ Aug 13 2008, 03:47 PM) *
If you carefully push the nib from side to side with your fingers you should be able to work it free from the section....
Tim
(still in the market for spare mid-century Sheaffer feeds...)


A very bad idea with Sheaffer feeds! Sheaffer feeds have a rubber insert that goes down the middle, and the wall of the feed itself is rather thin. I strongly recommend that you not try to pull the feed out, and only knock the feeds out.

My credentials are below.....
david i
QUOTE (Readymade @ Aug 12 2008, 09:52 PM) *
QUOTE (Ernst Bitterman @ Aug 13 2008, 02:51 AM) *
If gripping and pulling, give it a soak first, and really only proceed if the point is a little loose anyway. I've got several Sheaffers with no tipping left because, I suspect, people were yonking on the point to remove it.

Another interim measure is to smooth the remaining material into a useable writer-- it's damaged already, and if you don't go mad you can in theory one day send it away for re-tipping.


Just to clarify -- by "grip and pull" you mean: I grip the nib and section together, and just pull away from the section? That's it?

The pen's got a sac attached. Do I have to remove the sac first?

And umm... how do I put everything back together? Do I simply push it back?

The tipping looks like it's all gone. Not much to smooth there...

I was thinking of trying to grind the nib into a stub.

Not sure about re-tipping. I understand it's expensive and I don't really want to spend all that much on this one pen.

@grimakis: don't have a knockout block unfortunately...


a 33 nib would be cheaper to buy than to retip.

regards
david
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