Hi folks,

I'd greatly appreciate advice on how to blacken the black hard rubber end caps to a 1920s Parker Duofold Junior (e.g., the blind cap and the top of the cap).

Thanks!

The 2 most readily available methods are:

1) the G10 Process done by Richard Binder where you send the pen to him and he does the process. http://www.richardspens.com/

2) Pensbury Manor Black Hard Rubber Pen Potion No.9 that you do yourself. http://www.pensburymanor.com/PMBHRPPNo9.html

(Admins - Not sure this tidbit doesn't violate commercial policy here, but seems innocuous enough.)

Syd

I'm a do-it-yourselfer when possible, so, although Richard Binder is a wonderfully kindly man who has helped me often with repair questions, I'd prefer to try the potion #9.

Anybody had good success with it?

Richard

Since PMBHRPPN°9 is my product, I don't think it would be appropriate for me to comment here as there could be the perception of conflict of interests, and product sales promotion is verboten here, but with over 400 shipped I would think some satisfied folks might come forth, unless they have a problem coming out of the re-blackening closet.

I am a happy user of Wahlnut's magic fluid. Not specifically on Parker end caps but a BHR Esterbrook Relief came up a picture.

I have used it on pens and interestingly enough on the black knobs of my 1950 MGTD that I restored. 1 year later and exposed constantly to sun and they are still black.
I like the stuff!! Usual disclaimer etc......
Cheers,
Rob

For those who have ethical problems using artificial blackening agents, there is a more "natural" alternative that gives reasonable results. Since the brownish discoloration is due to oxidation of the BHR, I have had good results with the following:

The flat surfaces can be lightly sanded to black, unoxidized rubber, using very fine-grit sandpaper; progressively finer-grit abrasive pads are then used to bring the flat surfaces to a shine (this is analagous to the progressive wet-sanding process used on automotive finishes).

The milled surfaces can be carefully buffed using an abrasive like Simichrome with a Dremel and a rotary brush (not the metal brush, the plastic-bristled one), and then finished with the Dremel and a felt buffing wheel, again using a polish like Simichrome. Done carefully, the milling remains intact, and the brown discoloration is largely abraded away.

The finished, polished part is then waxed with a good-quality pen wax (I use Giovanni's pen wax) to protect the hard rubber from oxygen.

You must have a very good touch with the Dremel / Felt wheel combination Romagno. I find them particularly dangerous on plastic and HR. The heat that can be generated by the felt wheel is surprising, and easily damages plastic surfaces.

Personally I limit felt wheels to metal part polishing to avoid surprises.

Just commenting so as to caution inexperienced people to be *very* careful with the felt wheels if they do decide to use them...

Regards,

Gerry

You are right; I use only the battery-operated (4.8 volt battery) 2-speed Dremel when buffing plastic or hard rubber- the relatively low speed with a light touch yields the desired result without harming the part being buffed.

It is absolutely true that removal of the oxidized rubber will expose un-oxidized much darker rubber beneath. For pens without fine detail patterns or important indicia it is a viable option, but some folks find removing surface material is not an option they would choose. Also removal of the oxidized rubber exposes new rubber to another round of oxidation. Arresting or drastically slowing down the oxidation and UV discoloration process is preferable for many.

I am in agreement with you on this point. However, there has been quite an ongoing debate on the ethics of black rubber restoration with reblackening agents, and I was merely offering an alternative.

Personally, I have no issue with reblackening agents, as long as their use is disclosed to any subsequent owner of said pen.