I'm heading to Charleston, S.C. next week to play while my husband is at a conference. Are there any must-see places for pen and paper enthusiasts?

I was recently in Charleston and had some difficulty finding a store which specialized in writing paper and journals such as G. Lalo, Rhodia, Moleskine, etc. However, there is a nice stationery shop called Dulles Designs (no affiliation). It's located at 89 Church St. and is run by a very nice woman from France. I bought some personalized notepads which had my name hand written on them by a calligrapher. The craftsmanship of their products is amazing and I would highly recommend going there if you would like some nice personalized stationery. They also sell Waterford and Caran d'Ache pens. There is also an art supply store on King St. called Tidewell. I don't know about writing paper, but they do sell Lamy and Retro 51 pens. Good luck and enjoy your trip, Charleston is my all time favorite travel destination. I've been there 14 times

You might also want to try simply strolling down Market Street. There's lots of touristy junk in the market, but amid the t-shirts and key chains, one can find many treasures.
I also love Charleston. It is a beautiful and historic city. You should take the ghost tour put on by Bulldog tours(no relation). It is a blast and quite informative.