Two of my pens have hair line cracks in their barrel. The Caran d'ache I may have created in attempting to loosen the barrel, and the Parker is an unfortunate surprise on inspection.
Is there anyway to salvage these pens?
Full Version: Hair line crack in barrel(s)
You will find Parker 51 barrels rather easily. Check www.parker51.com or www.vintagepens.com. The P51 plastic is particularly difficult to work with.
The CdA might respond to a careful application of Tenax, a relatively ferocious model glue-- I say might because I'm not sure of the material. Tenax is for polystyrene and does a brilliant job on Sheaffer TD/Snorkel barrels with small cracks.
Thank you both very much for your responses. I'll check the 51 barrel replacement sites for a possible match. Grey is among the hardest colours to match.
And a hobby glue was among my immediate thoughts, but I am not familiar with Tenax. The CdA is made from some sort of polished plastic. This is not one of their high priced pens, but frankly it is among my favourites and I was sad, sad, sad to see the ink leaking out after I had fiddled with to in an effort to make some other adjustment. I must have put too much pressure on removing the inner barrel.
Is the Tenax applied like a nail varnish?
And a hobby glue was among my immediate thoughts, but I am not familiar with Tenax. The CdA is made from some sort of polished plastic. This is not one of their high priced pens, but frankly it is among my favourites and I was sad, sad, sad to see the ink leaking out after I had fiddled with to in an effort to make some other adjustment. I must have put too much pressure on removing the inner barrel.
Is the Tenax applied like a nail varnish?
Tenax-R7 follows cracks by capillary action and welds the kind of plastic found in Snorkels, TD's, and P51's in under 15 seconds. It's not something you want to use in an unventilated area, but it works really well, as long as everything is clean, dry and tight (it won't fill open cracks). Application with a pinpoint tube applicator works well, but there are other methods like employing a toothpick that work too. Probably not a good idea to brush it on anything.
Hope this helps!
Cheers,
Tom
Hope this helps!
Cheers,
Tom
Yes indeed a hard match for this grey. too dack or too light.
You are better off leveing with it or buy a new pen if you really like a grey......
You are better off leveing with it or buy a new pen if you really like a grey......
QUOTE (Zoe @ Jul 15 2008, 02:11 AM) 
Thank you both very much for your responses. I'll check the 51 barrel replacement sites for a possible match. Grey is among the hardest colours to match.
And a hobby glue was among my immediate thoughts, but I am not familiar with Tenax. The CdA is made from some sort of polished plastic. This is not one of their high priced pens, but frankly it is among my favourites and I was sad, sad, sad to see the ink leaking out after I had fiddled with to in an effort to make some other adjustment. I must have put too much pressure on removing the inner barrel.
Is the Tenax applied like a nail varnish?
And a hobby glue was among my immediate thoughts, but I am not familiar with Tenax. The CdA is made from some sort of polished plastic. This is not one of their high priced pens, but frankly it is among my favourites and I was sad, sad, sad to see the ink leaking out after I had fiddled with to in an effort to make some other adjustment. I must have put too much pressure on removing the inner barrel.
Is the Tenax applied like a nail varnish?
ah, Tenax! I'm actually an active builder of scale auto models...and use Tenax often. I can assure you from long experience that it is very hot, will feather into any hairline, and will weld any polystyrene too quickly to undo a mistake. I would strongly recommend that you use an applicator that is as narrow as you can use, even the edge of an xacto or scalpel blade, or a pin, or a very piece of 26 or 28 gauge wire bent in the smallest loop you can make. Do make sure the pen isn't in the cap when you fix that cap...there isn't a serious modeler alive who hasn't inadvertently welded something extra in a tenax weld.
Tenax is relatively limited in its applicability -- to my knowledge it only works on polystyrene, not on butyrate, acrylics, or ABS. If it doesn't work, there are others to try. Plastruct makes two different solvent cements, one general purpose and one for poly. Ambroid's is pretty good too, but it's a slightly thicker polystyrene solvent, and a little slower than Tenax. Finally, you might want to try a fast cyanoacrylate (superglue). the Zap family are toned down for modelers and other hobbyists. DO NOT NOT NOT use Gorilla superglue on a pen!!!!!!!
Just re-read Tom's reply above -- he's right -- do not use a brush of any kind with Tenax...you'll have an instantly scarred cap.
Tenax is relatively limited in its applicability -- to my knowledge it only works on polystyrene, not on butyrate, acrylics, or ABS. If it doesn't work, there are others to try. Plastruct makes two different solvent cements, one general purpose and one for poly. Ambroid's is pretty good too, but it's a slightly thicker polystyrene solvent, and a little slower than Tenax. Finally, you might want to try a fast cyanoacrylate (superglue). the Zap family are toned down for modelers and other hobbyists. DO NOT NOT NOT use Gorilla superglue on a pen!!!!!!!
Just re-read Tom's reply above -- he's right -- do not use a brush of any kind with Tenax...you'll have an instantly scarred cap.
Many thanks. I think I will show the CdA to a friend who is more able than I am to determine what material was used for the pen. It seems like plastic, but I couldn't swear to it, and the Tenax sounds like a dragon slayer. It sort of scares me to even think of using it.
Unfortunately, I am so rural, I can't pop into a shop, hobby or otherwise, to make inquiries about some of these recommendations.
Unfortunately, I am so rural, I can't pop into a shop, hobby or otherwise, to make inquiries about some of these recommendations.
sounds like a plan, Zoe
Just an update.
I put a note in the Market Place for the Parker. If anyone has a mind to fix it send me a PM.
And as for the Caran d'ache, my buddy Dan up the road says it's plastic, and doesn't suggest I use Tenex. Perhaps the next tme I am closer to civilisation, I'll find a hobby shop and see if they have any suggestions for a glue that won't negatively affect the barrel and perhaps fill its cracks.
Thanks all.
Zoe
I put a note in the Market Place for the Parker. If anyone has a mind to fix it send me a PM.
And as for the Caran d'ache, my buddy Dan up the road says it's plastic, and doesn't suggest I use Tenex. Perhaps the next tme I am closer to civilisation, I'll find a hobby shop and see if they have any suggestions for a glue that won't negatively affect the barrel and perhaps fill its cracks.
Thanks all.
Zoe
Zoe,
the issue here is filling the crack. I am not a pen repair expert, but I do a fair amount of work with plastics and have even slept in a Holiday Inn or two. Polystyrenes, which almost all of my scale cars are made of, is much softer and less brittle than your P51. Tenax will either work or not, but it probably won't do any harm. It is far from the strongest polystyrene solvents. There are others that weld other plastics -- Weld-On is thin and strong and will work on plexiglas, which is usually lucite. Ambroid works well with polystyrene and also bonds poly to other plastics, but it's not the strongest of all bonds. I guess, and we'll need a pro to answer this -- are you looking to fill the crack or weld it closed? If the former, you may want a hot, thin cyanoacrylate (superglue), feathered in from a pin or scalpel blade. Don't use the slow stuff, it's too thick to get in a crack. If the latter, you need to learn what kind of plastic they used in the 50's and its current-day analog, to pick the right welding solvent. Again, I'm not a pro, but I do have some experience with welding plastic...at this moment I'm watching a narrow strip of .010" polystyrene weld, with Ambroid, to the bottom edge of the hood of a 55 Chevy (converted from a BelAir to a 210 for the obsessive...) in 1/24 scale. When it's completely dry, I'll cut/file/sand off all the excess and hope the gap between engine bay and hood is gone. If not, I'll do it again...and again... .010 at a time until the job is done. The Ambroid will melt the plastic and the plastic it is binding to, and form new plastic in a single layer.
the issue here is filling the crack. I am not a pen repair expert, but I do a fair amount of work with plastics and have even slept in a Holiday Inn or two. Polystyrenes, which almost all of my scale cars are made of, is much softer and less brittle than your P51. Tenax will either work or not, but it probably won't do any harm. It is far from the strongest polystyrene solvents. There are others that weld other plastics -- Weld-On is thin and strong and will work on plexiglas, which is usually lucite. Ambroid works well with polystyrene and also bonds poly to other plastics, but it's not the strongest of all bonds. I guess, and we'll need a pro to answer this -- are you looking to fill the crack or weld it closed? If the former, you may want a hot, thin cyanoacrylate (superglue), feathered in from a pin or scalpel blade. Don't use the slow stuff, it's too thick to get in a crack. If the latter, you need to learn what kind of plastic they used in the 50's and its current-day analog, to pick the right welding solvent. Again, I'm not a pro, but I do have some experience with welding plastic...at this moment I'm watching a narrow strip of .010" polystyrene weld, with Ambroid, to the bottom edge of the hood of a 55 Chevy (converted from a BelAir to a 210 for the obsessive...) in 1/24 scale. When it's completely dry, I'll cut/file/sand off all the excess and hope the gap between engine bay and hood is gone. If not, I'll do it again...and again... .010 at a time until the job is done. The Ambroid will melt the plastic and the plastic it is binding to, and form new plastic in a single layer.
The Parker 51 is lucite.
Well, I sure wish you lived nearby and could help me, but without more familiarity and experience with fp, in general, I am finding myself breaking more pens than fixing them. 
I offered the Parker to a FPn member and I suppose he will get this ole boy to work.
And interestingly enough, I prefer the Caran d'ache and hope I can get her into working condition and that "somehow" I'll find a way (glue, sealant) to make this happen.
Many thanks, and thanks to Ron for jumping in with "lucite."
I offered the Parker to a FPn member and I suppose he will get this ole boy to work.
And interestingly enough, I prefer the Caran d'ache and hope I can get her into working condition and that "somehow" I'll find a way (glue, sealant) to make this happen.
Many thanks, and thanks to Ron for jumping in with "lucite."
QUOTE (tmenyc @ Jul 29 2008, 11:01 PM)
Zoe,
the issue here is filling the crack. I am not a pen repair expert, but I do a fair amount of work with plastics and have even slept in a Holiday Inn or two. Polystyrenes, which almost all of my scale cars are made of, is much softer and less brittle than your P51. Tenax will either work or not, but it probably won't do any harm. It is far from the strongest polystyrene solvents. There are others that weld other plastics -- Weld-On is thin and strong and will work on plexiglas, which is usually lucite. Ambroid works well with polystyrene and also bonds poly to other plastics, but it's not the strongest of all bonds. I guess, and we'll need a pro to answer this -- are you looking to fill the crack or weld it closed? If the former, you may want a hot, thin cyanoacrylate (superglue), feathered in from a pin or scalpel blade. Don't use the slow stuff, it's too thick to get in a crack. If the latter, you need to learn what kind of plastic they used in the 50's and its current-day analog, to pick the right welding solvent. Again, I'm not a pro, but I do have some experience with welding plastic...at this moment I'm watching a narrow strip of .010" polystyrene weld, with Ambroid, to the bottom edge of the hood of a 55 Chevy (converted from a BelAir to a 210 for the obsessive...) in 1/24 scale. When it's completely dry, I'll cut/file/sand off all the excess and hope the gap between engine bay and hood is gone. If not, I'll do it again...and again... .010 at a time until the job is done. The Ambroid will melt the plastic and the plastic it is binding to, and form new plastic in a single layer.
the issue here is filling the crack. I am not a pen repair expert, but I do a fair amount of work with plastics and have even slept in a Holiday Inn or two. Polystyrenes, which almost all of my scale cars are made of, is much softer and less brittle than your P51. Tenax will either work or not, but it probably won't do any harm. It is far from the strongest polystyrene solvents. There are others that weld other plastics -- Weld-On is thin and strong and will work on plexiglas, which is usually lucite. Ambroid works well with polystyrene and also bonds poly to other plastics, but it's not the strongest of all bonds. I guess, and we'll need a pro to answer this -- are you looking to fill the crack or weld it closed? If the former, you may want a hot, thin cyanoacrylate (superglue), feathered in from a pin or scalpel blade. Don't use the slow stuff, it's too thick to get in a crack. If the latter, you need to learn what kind of plastic they used in the 50's and its current-day analog, to pick the right welding solvent. Again, I'm not a pro, but I do have some experience with welding plastic...at this moment I'm watching a narrow strip of .010" polystyrene weld, with Ambroid, to the bottom edge of the hood of a 55 Chevy (converted from a BelAir to a 210 for the obsessive...) in 1/24 scale. When it's completely dry, I'll cut/file/sand off all the excess and hope the gap between engine bay and hood is gone. If not, I'll do it again...and again... .010 at a time until the job is done. The Ambroid will melt the plastic and the plastic it is binding to, and form new plastic in a single layer.
QUOTE (tmenyc @ Jul 29 2008, 11:01 PM)
Zoe,
the issue here is filling the crack. I am not a pen repair expert, but I do a fair amount of work with plastics and have even slept in a Holiday Inn or two. Polystyrenes, which almost all of my scale cars are made of, is much softer and less brittle than your P51. Tenax will either work or not, but it probably won't do any harm. It is far from the strongest polystyrene solvents. There are others that weld other plastics -- Weld-On is thin and strong and will work on plexiglas, which is usually lucite. Ambroid works well with polystyrene and also bonds poly to other plastics, but it's not the strongest of all bonds. I guess, and we'll need a pro to answer this -- are you looking to fill the crack or weld it closed? If the former, you may want a hot, thin cyanoacrylate (superglue), feathered in from a pin or scalpel blade. Don't use the slow stuff, it's too thick to get in a crack. If the latter, you need to learn what kind of plastic they used in the 50's and its current-day analog, to pick the right welding solvent. Again, I'm not a pro, but I do have some experience with welding plastic...at this moment I'm watching a narrow strip of .010" polystyrene weld, with Ambroid, to the bottom edge of the hood of a 55 Chevy (converted from a BelAir to a 210 for the obsessive...) in 1/24 scale. When it's completely dry, I'll cut/file/sand off all the excess and hope the gap between engine bay and hood is gone. If not, I'll do it again...and again... .010 at a time until the job is done. The Ambroid will melt the plastic and the plastic it is binding to, and form new plastic in a single layer.
the issue here is filling the crack. I am not a pen repair expert, but I do a fair amount of work with plastics and have even slept in a Holiday Inn or two. Polystyrenes, which almost all of my scale cars are made of, is much softer and less brittle than your P51. Tenax will either work or not, but it probably won't do any harm. It is far from the strongest polystyrene solvents. There are others that weld other plastics -- Weld-On is thin and strong and will work on plexiglas, which is usually lucite. Ambroid works well with polystyrene and also bonds poly to other plastics, but it's not the strongest of all bonds. I guess, and we'll need a pro to answer this -- are you looking to fill the crack or weld it closed? If the former, you may want a hot, thin cyanoacrylate (superglue), feathered in from a pin or scalpel blade. Don't use the slow stuff, it's too thick to get in a crack. If the latter, you need to learn what kind of plastic they used in the 50's and its current-day analog, to pick the right welding solvent. Again, I'm not a pro, but I do have some experience with welding plastic...at this moment I'm watching a narrow strip of .010" polystyrene weld, with Ambroid, to the bottom edge of the hood of a 55 Chevy (converted from a BelAir to a 210 for the obsessive...) in 1/24 scale. When it's completely dry, I'll cut/file/sand off all the excess and hope the gap between engine bay and hood is gone. If not, I'll do it again...and again... .010 at a time until the job is done. The Ambroid will melt the plastic and the plastic it is binding to, and form new plastic in a single layer.
Do you have any other tips for solvent welding lucite? I'll give that Weld-on a try, I haven't seen it mentioned here before. If you happen to know anybody who you would consider a pro, pick their brain. If you can come up with a way to create a strong solvent welded bond with P51 lucite you'll be a hero of the repair forum. Its a problem thats vexed P51 owners and repairers for quite a while now. I know I have at least 15 cracked barrels and hoods, and I'd say thats prolly not too many compared to some of the other people here.
Well, Ron, who posted above, is fixing three of my pens as I write...well, at least he has them now. I'm a long-time fp user but newbie in reallly understanding them. I do know something about welding plastics, however, from my hobby work, so i won't give advice about fixing pens, only about which solvents to use for which kinds of jobs.
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