I have 11 Sheaffer TD and Snorkel pens that need resacing, etc.
None of them were high price acquisitions... but all write well when dipped...
I think I would like to try my hand at doing some of them myself. I figure worst case scenario I am out some parts money and end up having them done professionally... in fact a couple will be done that way.. they are way to pretty for me to screw up... Besides, with that many pens, restoration money is an issue

What parts will I need to do this??
I have made a list and am curious if I am correct..
#14 sacs
Body O rings
Point Holder Gasket for the snorkels

One other question... what is the best way to remove the sac protector from the section on a snorkel without ruining the snorkel...
I have "Da Book", but figure there may be other ways to do it.

Thanks for the help

Ideally, you need Martin's No. 14-1/2 sacs for Snorkels and his No. 15-1/2 for Touchdown TM. Nos. 14 and 15 will work, but not as well. O-rings, of course, and Point Holder Gaskets for Snorkels. The O-ring that some people sell to replace the Point Holder Gasket is too big in OD, too small in ID, and is a poor substitute at best. Martin Ferguson's exact reproduction Point Holder Gaskets are far, far better. Since they became available, I've never used anything else -- and I've replaced dozens of the fat O-rings when people sent me Snorkels that had been "restored" but weren't working well.

The sac protector on a Touchdown is a wiggle/pull fit.

To disassemble a Snorkel, pull the sac assembly backward just far enough that you can see the ends of the ridges that slide in the section grooves. Make a slight scratch mark on the sac protector in line with the top center of the nib. Make a similar mark in the exposed edge of the section. This will allow you to reassemble these parts in the correct orientation with the nib.

DO NOT REMOVE THE SNORKEL TUBE FROM THE SAC SECTION! If it comes loose of its own accord, you can replace it later, but there is no need to remove it as part of the standard disassembly, and removing it means you'll have to align it and set it to the right length all over again when you're reassembling the pen.

To remove the sac protector, first poke a hole in the back end of the sac. If it's ossified, a dental pick will do it. If it's still pliable, you need to pierce it with a very small hooked probe, pull the hooked part out, and then either yank the whoke sac free or cut off enough to ensure a clear path to the front end of the sac.

There are three ways in which sac protectors on Snorkels are secured:

1. The ends of the ridges that slide in the section grooves are rounded over. Use small needle-nose pliers to raise the ends of the ridges just enough that they're straight and will allow the sac section to pass out of the sac guard.

2. The edges of the sac guard between the ridges are crimped inward, with a knife or similar sharpish edge. Use small needle-nose pliers to straighten out the crimped area so that the sac section can pass out of the sac guard.

3. There are depressed areas midway along the length of the flat surfaces between the ridges. These do not need to be loosened; the sac section is molded with corresponding depressions in its putside surface.

Insert a piece of brass tubing into the hole at the back of the sac protector -- use the largest tube that will fit. Do not use a piece of rod or wire or anything else that is a sloppy fit. Gently move the tubing around until it centers on the sac section; this will sometimes, but not always, mean that the back end of the Snorkel tube slips up inside the tubing. Now push the sac section out with the tubing. If you don't do this carefully, you can break the back end of the Snorkel tub's secondary feed.

Remove any remnants of the sac from the sac section and from inside the sac protector. Clean the sac section; if you have an ultrasonic cleaner, use it. Finish cleaning by using an ear syringe to push clear water through the Snorkel tube.

Reassemble in the obvious way.

If the Snorkel tube came free, you can re-set it by assembling the pen without the Point Holder Gasket. Screw the blind cap all the way down as if retracting the Snorkel tube after filling. Insert the Snorkel tube through the feed and align it to that the point is directly in line with the nib (Triumph nib) or so that the lengthwise cut at the end of the tube is directly in line with the nib (open nib), and push it in the proper distance. For the Triumph nib, the end of the Snorkel tube should be flush with the feed's surface; for an open nib, it should barely protrude from the feed.

Now disassemble the pen again. Apply a drop of shellac to the joint where the Snorkel tube enters the sac section, then gently lean the Snorkel tube from side to side so that capillary action will draw the shellac down into the bore through the sac section. Clean off the excess shellac, and allow the shellac to dry for an hour. Reassemble the pen except for the nib unit, unscrewing the blind cap to extend the Snorkel tube. Apply a dot of silicone grease to the Snorkel tube just where it extends out from the section. Install the Point Holder Gasket onto the Snorkel tube, slide it down to the grease, and turn it around to get the grease all the way around. Install the nib unit.

Terrific article Richard. Thanks for sharing.

Gerry

Richard, Thank you very much...
This is just another example of what a wonderful person Richard is... here is a man that makes his living repairing fountain pens and is willing to give up his way of doing the work....
Just another reason I will keep doing business with him.
Now I just have one other question where do I find Martin Ferguson's website or address to order materials from him...
Yeah, I know I want all your secrets...

I find that the small "Universal Point Gaskets" (as introduced originally by Father Terry Koch) work extremely well. You leave the worn gasket in place and place the small auxiliary gasket above it, inserting the snorkel through it. It puts no stress on the pen, the snorkel extraction and retraction are very smooth and it gives a very good and lasting seal.
I tend to use these small gaskets more and more for my own snorkel restoration.

Absolutely. For repairs by an amateur (in the real sense of the word, i.e., someone who is not a professional repairer), that tiny adjunct O-ring is an excellent way to do things. It's easy to install and very reliable.

Might I point out, just for clarification's sake, that the ill-fitting point seals that Richard refers to above are the thick, doughnut-shaped O-rings, and NOT the EPDM point seals sold at www.vintagepens.com and on eBay by vintagepens.

Oopsie. Sorry, David -- I didn't intend to tread on your toes, as it were. I'm so thoroughly used to Martin's seals that I just don't normally think of yours.