I have toyed with getting into this as a hobby now for about two years. Even reading IPA site, the threads here, looking at many catalogs, get videos and books...the following are the questions I have...

LATHE and CHISELS
Should I consider a MIDI or MINI lathe, given that I really do not see myself moving beyond small items?
Variable speed?
Provision for extension bed?
What kind/size chisels?

SETS
Should I consider getting a "starter set" with the lathe. and all the "stuff" to make pens? (I already own a drill press, table saw, band saw, plus other hand tools.)

SUPPLIERS
I have catalogs from GRIZZLY, PENN STATE, ARIZONA, BEREA HARDWOODS, etc. Is one of these better or worse than others.

GETTING GOING
Although I use only FPs, should I start with the BPs first and then go to FPs or just start with FPs?
Do I start with wood and then go to the "fancier" stuff like Corian, acrylic, etc.?


HELP....

Personal opinions only -

Given that you don't foresee doing anything other than pens (but as I have often mentioned, this is a highly addictive business!!) a mini lathe should do the job fine.

Something along the lines of a Carbatec, Bonnie Kline, Record DML24 etc. All reasonably priced and decent machines. There are many others - I'm sure others can wade in here.

Variable speed can be invaluable at times, but starting out I wouldn't get too hung up on it.

Wouldn't bother about bed extension. If you reach that stage you'll probably be better buying a bigger machine anyway.

For pens a smallish roughing gouge (1/2" or 3/4") and a skew (1/2" oval HSS would be ideal IMHO). Not much more is needed, in spite of the catalogues

Sets: Probably a good idea to pick up a decent quality pen mandrel, and the rest as you find a need.

Suppliers: you could add Craft Supplies and Lee Valley to the list. There are a lot out there Stuff varies in quality and depends a lot on personal preferences. Again others will have more info I hope.

Nothing wrong with BPs Handy place to start, so why not! With many kits there's not a lot of difference in difficulty.

I'd personally recommend starting with wood, although it can in many cases be more tricky than the man-made materials. Something very satisfying about the ### stuff

As said often - main thing is to have fun!

Feel free to PM or email if you like.

Regards & good luck,
Ruaidhrí

i think Ruaidhri has covered it all. i would add buffing wheels, something to sharpen those tools with and perhaps a little latter a collet chuck.

regarding the lathe, ultimately you may get frustrated with the inaccuracy of cheaper lathes. i would recommend either buy the best to start with or, something cheap that you are prepared to upgrade if you feel the need for something more accurate. the old lathe will then come in handy for buffing wheels.

i don't think the fp kits are any more harder than say a slimline. with every pen style you decide to make there is always a little investment in tooling required which begins to mount up over the time. better chose a style you like then buy extra tubes and a few yards, metres of beech doweling and practice both turning and finishing to your hearts content before 'wasting' a kit.

good luck

First...
THANK YOU (Caps for emphasis, not yelling... )

Given that I buy from Lee Valley for other tools and gardening stuff (read big stuff so me wife can plant delicate stuff...), I had not even thought of them...

One area I forgot to ask...sharpening the chisels and gouges...

While I do work in wood, the lathe tools are very different, it seems. My plane and chisel blades I currently use a series of 3M autobody papers (from 180 grit to 3000 grit) laid on marble tile---works well with both Engish and Japanese blades. However, I have the angles all laid in in a jig to set my blade holder.

Can I modify my current set-up for the lathe tools or do I have to look into a different rig???

(NOTE...I got the autobody paper idea from a FINE WOODWORKING article about a year ago, then saw a similar set up in a WORKBENCH article a month or so later...and it works like you would NOT believe...)

OOPS...

In my catalog perusing...seems that the MT#2 stuff is more prevelent than the MT#1 and the MT#3 is used to turn porch columns So I would guess a lathe with an MT #2 arbor and tail stock is preferable???

Again, personal opinions

A fairly basic grinder is more or less a must-have to get the shapes you want.

Following that I hone mine to a polished edge, finishing with rottenstone or extra fine buffing compo on a leather wheel.
With Ornamental Turning you can't really sand or the facets are ruined, so the finish has to be straight from the tool.

I mentioned this elsewhere, but it may bear repeating - if you check the spindle nose on the lathe you buy, you'll most likely find that such things as conduit connectors, bases of oil filters from cars etc have the same thread - my Record and Carbatec both have 3/4 x 16tpi, the same as Ford
With these you can make up a few MDF or melamine faced chipboard discs and face them with emery and one with leather for honing. The lazy way
Another with leather and fine valve grinding paste is handy too.

Cost = $0 (in Euros that's €0 co-incidentally LOL)

With the exception of the goniostat I HATE sharpening jigs - pay no attention I'm known as a anal retentive when it comes to sharpening
Seriously though, with basic turning tools they aren't needed. About 45 degrees on the roughing gouge, and 20 on the skew work fine for me. Important to keep an even bevel though.

As to tapers - I have 1 MT on the Record and Carbatec and 2 MT on the Myford.
For pens a 1MT is plenty, so take your pick. Do make sure the spindle and tailstock are the same - there are a few odd exceptions.

BTW - a number of suppliers sell MT blanks. Usually with a stub about 1" dia and 1" long. The tapers come hardened, but the stubs are left unhardened so you can thread them for various other purposes - saves a fortune

enough rambling - more if needed

Cheers,
Ruaidhrí

Again...thank you..

Very informative...especially about the even bevel. I am used to a double bevel on both chisels (my English style are actually English...Blue Chip) and I have generic Japanese, probably made by some bottom level apprentise, but DAMN...

Now...to break it to the wifely person that I have decided to take the plunge...but first...clean the garage, clean the basement, week the garden...HELP!!!

Know what you mean about the micro bevel on chisels - very different on turning tools, where effectively you are using the bevel like the sole of a plane.

You may come across talk of a double bevel on gouges, but this doesn't concern pens - it's usually used (if at all) for deep(ish) hollowing.

Check out here - I've done a bit of tidying since - but it is still a disgrace

Cheers,
Ruaidhrí

You can spend as much as or as little as you feel necessary or who you wish to impress.
I turned pens for 3 years with a set of chisels from Harbor freight that cost $12.00 and I really only used the skew.
I do not believe a moroized sharpening tools is a must I Use diamond stones.
Slim lines are probably the most difficult to make for a someone strating out.They are reccomended because they are inexpensive.
I would opt for a cigar type because there is more "meat" on the tube.Mind the bushing order.
Even if planning on turning pens exclusively I would reccomend a lathe with an M2 taper.
If you stick with a lathe that has a 1x8 tpi on the headstock in a mini most accessories are readily available.
There is a thread about mini lathes and the choice between VS or manual.
I have three lathes, all minis.
If I opt4ed for VS I would only have two lathes based on extra cost.
Changing speeds is a no brainer once you have done it a few times.
AS you getmore into this craft you will learn better platings and which components are to your liking.
You might also want to look into this site
http://www.penturners.org/forum/portal.asp