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The Fountain Pen Network > Creative Expressions > Pen Turning and Making
Gretchen
Hi,

I'm trying to find a tap that will allow me to use Pelican, Osmiroid, Conway Stewart, and Pentalic/Reform nibs in the same pen. They all seem to have the same size threads (please tell me if you know otherwise!), but each locates the threads in different places, e.g. right below the nib or 1/4" below the nib, or they have varying amounts of threading. I gather from the Pelican forum that the size used in Pelican 400s is 9/32 and 36 tpi, and that, I am discovering, is NOT a common tap size! I don't have a lathe unfortunately, but do have a tap wrench, so tapping it is -- assuming I can find the tap!

Oh, and years ago when I worked with plexi, we used a bar of soap for the lubricant, whether on taps or on table saw blades. Is that what you would suggest with pen sections?

Thanks for any suggestions.
Gretchen
KirkFranks
QUOTE(Gretchen @ May 14 2008, 04:59 PM) [snapback]610938[/snapback]
Hi,

I'm trying to find a tap that will allow me to use Pelican, Osmiroid, Conway Stewart, and Pentalic/Reform nibs in the same pen. They all seem to have the same size threads (please tell me if you know otherwise!), but each locates the threads in different places, e.g. right below the nib or 1/4" below the nib, or they have varying amounts of threading. I gather from the Pelican forum that the size used in Pelican 400s is 9/32 and 36 tpi, and that, I am discovering, is NOT a common tap size! I don't have a lathe unfortunately, but do have a tap wrench, so tapping it is -- assuming I can find the tap!

Oh, and years ago when I worked with plexi, we used a bar of soap for the lubricant, whether on taps or on table saw blades. Is that what you would suggest with pen sections?

Thanks for any suggestions.
Gretchen



I think that 9/32 36tpi is a BSF (British Standard Wentworth Fine)
I found this site that had the tap in taper and bottom style.
I would call to confirm first.

http://www.britishfasteners.com/mm5/mercha...tegory_Code=251
Gretchen
Hi,
Thanks, but that's still 10 tpi too course! The British Wentworth fine has only 26 tpi, and this needs 36 tpi. I'm really having no luck so far, so any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

ciao,
Gretchen



QUOTE(KirkFranks @ May 15 2008, 01:25 AM) [snapback]611222[/snapback]
QUOTE(Gretchen @ May 14 2008, 04:59 PM) [snapback]610938[/snapback]
Hi,

I'm trying to find a tap that will allow me to use Pelican, Osmiroid, Conway Stewart, and Pentalic/Reform nibs in the same pen. They all seem to have the same size threads (please tell me if you know otherwise!), but each locates the threads in different places, e.g. right below the nib or 1/4" below the nib, or they have varying amounts of threading. I gather from the Pelican forum that the size used in Pelican 400s is 9/32 and 36 tpi, and that, I am discovering, is NOT a common tap size! I don't have a lathe unfortunately, but do have a tap wrench, so tapping it is -- assuming I can find the tap!

Oh, and years ago when I worked with plexi, we used a bar of soap for the lubricant, whether on taps or on table saw blades. Is that what you would suggest with pen sections?

Thanks for any suggestions.
Gretchen



I think that 9/32 36tpi is a BSF (British Standard Wentworth Fine)
I found this site that had the tap in taper and bottom style.
I would call to confirm first.

http://www.britishfasteners.com/mm5/mercha...tegory_Code=251

KirkFranks
Sorry about that and thanks for the correction.
The chart I used has it listed 26 in one spot and 36 in the other. I see now it was a typo.

Perhaps it will need to be a custom job. Good luck on your search.



QUOTE(Gretchen @ May 15 2008, 03:56 PM) [snapback]612039[/snapback]
Hi,
Thanks, but that's still 10 tpi too course! The British Wentworth fine has only 26 tpi, and this needs 36 tpi. I'm really having no luck so far, so any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

ciao,
Gretchen



QUOTE(KirkFranks @ May 15 2008, 01:25 AM) [snapback]611222[/snapback]
QUOTE(Gretchen @ May 14 2008, 04:59 PM) [snapback]610938[/snapback]
Hi,

I'm trying to find a tap that will allow me to use Pelican, Osmiroid, Conway Stewart, and Pentalic/Reform nibs in the same pen. They all seem to have the same size threads (please tell me if you know otherwise!), but each locates the threads in different places, e.g. right below the nib or 1/4" below the nib, or they have varying amounts of threading. I gather from the Pelican forum that the size used in Pelican 400s is 9/32 and 36 tpi, and that, I am discovering, is NOT a common tap size! I don't have a lathe unfortunately, but do have a tap wrench, so tapping it is -- assuming I can find the tap!

Oh, and years ago when I worked with plexi, we used a bar of soap for the lubricant, whether on taps or on table saw blades. Is that what you would suggest with pen sections?

Thanks for any suggestions.
Gretchen



I think that 9/32 36tpi is a BSF (British Standard Wentworth Fine)
I found this site that had the tap in taper and bottom style.
I would call to confirm first.

http://www.britishfasteners.com/mm5/mercha...tegory_Code=251


richardandtracy
I think you'll have to get it made for you as a special. Most pen threads are invented for the job by the manufacturer.
I did make a tap last summer for Wizergig, but I've not heard any feedback about whether it worked or not - it was the first tap I'd made and the thread finish was a little rough.
I think I can thread 36 tpi on my lathe - Wizergig wanted 42 tpi for his Pelikan and I had to fiddle with the gears - the nearest I could get was 41.7 tpi which is OK for just a few threads engagement. Give me a yell if you can't find a tap anywhere, I'll have a bash at making another for your size. If you do want me to make it, please be aware I'm rebuilding my kitchen & can't do it before August (given the rate at which the kitchen update is progressing!).

Regards

Richard.
Gretchen
Hi Richard,

That's so kind of you thank you! And I didn't realize that normal mortals could make taps!! (of course you're in the UK, and we just finished watching Dr. Who, so perhaps. . . . ). Do you have to do all sorts of heat tempering and what not?? I just assumed that since all these different pen manufacturers were using exactly the same size and thread count that it would be easier to find.
Re-doing a kitchen does look like a very major endeavor. I moved into a warehouse many years ago (doing sculpture then), and was handed a kitchen sink in a box. That was my introduction to plumbing, making cabinets, wiring, etc., lol. It's a lot of working moving water and 'tricity around!

ciao,
Gretchen

btboone
E-taps.com does custom taps and has a lot of hard to find stuff.
richardandtracy
QUOTE(Gretchen @ May 17 2008, 03:56 AM) [snapback]613480[/snapback]
Hi Richard,

That's so kind of you thank you! And I didn't realize that normal mortals could make taps!! (of course you're in the UK, and we just finished watching Dr. Who, so perhaps. . . . ). Do you have to do all sorts of heat tempering and what not?? I just assumed that since all these different pen manufacturers were using exactly the same size and thread count that it would be easier to find.
Re-doing a kitchen does look like a very major endeavor. I moved into a warehouse many years ago (doing sculpture then), and was handed a kitchen sink in a box. That was my introduction to plumbing, making cabinets, wiring, etc., lol. It's a lot of working moving water and 'tricity around!

ciao,
Gretchen

If you are tapping into plastic & are not likely to do it much, a tap from normal free machining steel is quite adequate - all it is is a thread (such as a screw) with a few slots in it to form some cutting edges. The tap is also tapered at the entry end to get as fine a lead in as possible. It really isn't difficult with a lathe.

If you need the tap to do hundreds rather than tens of threads in plastic, or to tap brass, then the free machining steel should be case hardened. Finally, if you need to tap steel, the tap should be made from a tool steel (like 'Silver Steel' in the UK or 'Drill Rod' in North America) and through hardened & tempered. Case hardening and quench hardening can be done with a fireplace/pot of water in the living room, then the tempering can be done in an oven in the kitchen. There is a lot of mystique about heat treatment of steels, but it's very simple to do the basics.

As for the kitchen, yes it's difficult. The change to the kitchen has involved knocking a large hole in a solid brick wall, putting in steel lintles, bricking up one doorway, eliminating two rooms, extending the electricity ring mains, changing lighting in six rooms, re-routing the bathroom waste pipe, adding a radiator, moving a gas pipe and numerous changes to the plumbing. That's all before I get to put the cupboards in.

Regards

Richard.


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