I don't know where this post should be, but I figured people in this topic might be more interested than others. It is by no means a display of penmanship (all hurried tests here), but something relating to the penman's tool: the nib. I have a bunch of Binder italic nibs which I really love, but it doesn't make sense to spend so much on the Safari and AL-stars I have -- the nibs cost only $12, and the pens themselves not much more. But I love these pens. I was about to put an EF on my Vista, when I wondered whether this was the time to experiment with self grinding an italic! Why not? In the worst case I would ruin an F nib that I don't use anymore (because my handwriting has shrunk).

So I tightly folded some 600 sandpaper over a Spyderco sharpening stone and just "squared off" the nib. It takes very little time and pressure. You just have to make sure that you keep your angles constant so the grinds are flat. Then is smoothed on the sharpening stone (rough, then the smooth one). I rounded off the shoulders so they wouldn't dig into the paper. Finally smoothed everything on a couple of mylar sheets I had bought from Richard Binder.

Before sharpening, I loaded the converter with ink to act as lubricant for the grinding and smoothing, and would also allow me to test the nib during intermediate stages in the grinding.

Every now and then, I would test it for the proper thick/thin lines, and for hidden roughness. Would also peer at the nib with a magnifying glass. The process didn't take long at all. The nib was a bit of a dry writer and remains so now, but the broad line seems a bit narrower than my Binder .5mm's. First I wrote on a notepad I had handy:



[Note: the bowls/minims of all the handwriting here are around 2mm]

Hey, I thought. That's not too bad! Here's a close up of the writing on this cheapo, feathery paper:


I tested it out on HP Premium, which is very smooth, but broadens the thins a bit:


Very smooth. Again, not too bad. I was getting happy. Here's a close up on the HP paper:


You can see how the thins spread out. That's the only thing I don't like about HP Premium.

I was so happy with myself I made a journal entry (Kunst & Papier journal from wetpaintart.com -- review pending):


The paper isn't as smooth as HP (or notepad paper, for that matter) but the nib didn't snag on the surface. Here's a close up -- I didn't realize how rough the surface is until I made the scan. It doesn't feel that rough, that's for sure:


So there you are. I have a spare M nib, and another F nib that will soon be italicized. Maybe not as nice as Binder nibs, but cheaper. And it gave me some confidence in myself (I'm a complete klutz with this kind of stuff, believe me). If I can do it, most houseplants could manage. You might want to give it a try.

Doug

First of all, this is beautiful, fast, fluent and legible handwriting. You certainly posted it in the right forum.

I'm not so sure about this reply, but it does relate to your topic.

For many years, I've been using this simple device to sharpen and occasionaly, "italicise" nibs. As you've shown, it is possible to achieve the right result freehand, but it's very tricky to do - quite a delicate operation.

This was in a magazine article - I can't remenber which. Like all clever ideas, it's very simple and very effective.
Here's how it's done :-

Cut a small block of wood to a size which fits comfortably in your hand. Cut a notch in one side. Fit a pen in the notch with the nib facing upside down. Hold the pen firmly in place with an elastic band. Allow it to protrude to taste - in other words, for a shallow shape, extend the pen out of the block - for a steep slope, pull it in a bit. Fix a sheet of fine glass paper, or similar to the surface. This is fixed to my drawing board, but a small sheet of glass is probably a better base. It is very important that the surface should be absolutely flat. - and that's about it.

Making sure that the wood is always in contact with the table, move the block in a sideways motion parallel to the glass paper just allowing the nib to touch. A few strokes back and forth will probably do the job. This little, ingenious device can either sharpen italic nibs or produce absolutely straight edges from round tipped nibs very quickly and with consistency.

I occasionally use it with cheap fountain pens as experiments and would have no hesitation in using it on more expensive pens.

To recap - there are only two things of importance. Make sure that the pen is firmly anchored to the block and use a perfectly flat surface, preferably a piece of glass.

caliken

ps I like the way you write between the lines - so much more attractive than on them.


Click to view attachment

HDoug,

Good job on the nib grinding.

I think you have captured the essence of good italic handwriting. It goes beyond the text book letter forms and incorporates a style and character of your own. Perfect.

Very Interesting ~ both of you have woken up some inspiration in me - Thanks & Well done

Caliken that wood block could rock back & fore & induce a curve on the nib ~ is that the intention? I would have thought that some runner guides on the base would be useful to maintain parallel ~ also if the pen slot were cut at an angle ... ??? And how do you stop the pen rotating in that apparatus??

There is no tendency to rock back and forth and, provided that the edge of the device is off the glass paper, parallel isn't important. I only used the word 'parallel' in my description, to indicate the direction of movement. I'm sorry if this was misleading.
Try taking any small, straight-edged object with an edge about 3 inches long, place it on its edge on a flat surface and move it vertically away and towards you in a sawing motion.. You will find it very stable and almost impossible to rock to and fro.

The accurate shape of the V slot isn't important. As the pen is being fitted, it is rotated in the slot so that the nib is turned straight on. I used only one elastic band for the picture, when I should have used one at the top of the block and one at the bottom. I wind them round the block and, as the pen is already set in the V slot there is absolutely no movement.

I have been using this little device for more years than I care to remember, and have lost very, very few nibs. In all these cases, the fault has been due to carelessness on my part.

In the attached photo, both nibs have been sharpened using the device.. The tiny nib was produced from a much larger one. I ground down the sides and then sharpened it. As you can see, the device is capable of incredible accuracy, even at the tiniest size.

Having said all that, I would still pass the most expensive pens to Richard Binder for his skill and attention.

Great tip, caliken - that wood block trick! Congrats, HDoug!

Very awesome advice, will try that next time I grind down a nib. By the way, I believe your "device" is properly called a "sharpening jig." Not that propriety matters much, really, as long as the nibs turn out fine

Sounds awfully like a reason to pick up a couple of safari nibs

Cheers.

And I'll add my voice to the crowd and say that I always enjoy it when Doug posts captures of his handwriting - even though it highlights the scruffiness of my own

Thanks you, Daosus. I never knew the correct name.

I remember when I first made my copy of this "jig" in the 1960's, I sharpened all of my 15 Osmiroid pens in one evening - and every one was perfect!

caliken

Great tips there, Doug and Caliken.

Caliken, do you place the pen at any particular angle every time, or do you vary it depending on the kind of shape you're going for? Also, is "glass paper" a special kind of fine sand paper? Is there an equivalent rating, like 1200?

Heyyy. So that's what happened to my red Reflex....

After reading many of these posts, I might be ready to play around with re-shaping some nibs, but only on pens I no longer want.

You did a great job! I do like your handwriting as well.

Very cool. An nice handwriting too!

I'm sorry for the delay in replying to your questions - I've only just found this post.

I've only used this jig for square edged nibs but I suppose it would be possible to create a slot thereby angling the nib. Glass paper is (I think!) the finest grade of sandpaper - or perhaps the equivalent. I don't know what 1200 is (?)

caliken