Please indulge a newbie here but does anyone have a link to some resources on how to remove scratches from a Mont Blanc New Generation ballpoint? (I know...but it was a present)


I am familiar with doing some polishing work from my days making scale model aircraft (including using Brasso as a polishing agent; I knew someone who used toothpaste but it made his models smell minty). I tried to do this on an old Platignum fountain pen I picked up at a car boot sale but my efforts weren't too good as I was a bit too enthusiastic with the Dremel buffer. Grateful for any tips.

I've used a manicure set as a scratch remover. _NOT_ an emery board. That's too coarse. But I've used the finer grain boards. It will remove the scratch, but you'll ultimately need a polish to get it to really shine.

I believe the consensus is to avoid machine tools when buffing/polishing as that is too aggressive.

generally whats available to pen turner is micro mesh, used wet or dry, and buffing wheels using tripoli and white diamond. other will use a plastic polish or car paint scratch remover but neither are as fine as white diamond. ask at the IAP http://www.penturners.org/forum/portal.asp if there are any reputable turners living nearby who would like to help.

I sucessfully sanded out 0.5mm deep scratches from a P51 section with worn 600 grade wet & dry paper using hand action only, rinsing regularly. Then polished it with Brasso. That took quite some time as the Brasso doesn't cut anywhere near as much as 600 grade wet & dry. It would have been better if I'd had some 1200 grade as an intermediate material.

Your problem might be getting it to look round enough after sanding out the scratch. The only thing to say is 'Go carefully', and avoid making a flat.

And don't use power tools. It's better to take an hour and get it right than make a mess of it in 5 minutes.

Regards

Richard.

I have used a three part product to clean scratches on CDs that don't read well. I believe it is called Novus Plastic Polish.
One part is for deep scratches, another for minor and the third is a spray for clean and buff.
The best price in the smallest volumes was on-line from lotionsolution.com. I don't think I got the website name correct, but it is close. They sell all kind of 'stuff' for the skin and hair and I have no idea what possesses them to carry this product, but the price is good.

I have had good luck with buffing out scratches that keep a CD from reading well, but not 100%. I always use a cloth and finger tip and never a power tool. If you slow the tool down it might work, but the polishing with a power tool can create enough heat to melt the plastic.

mike

Gio has a selection of pastes/polishes that have a very good reputation - might be worth a look.

Here

Usual disclaimer - no connection other than that of a very happy customer

Regards,
Ruaidhrí

As has already be said, the Novus system is excellent and will likely do the job. Micromesh is excellent. So are Abralon pads. You can get them at automotive finishing suppliers. The finer grits in both MM and abralon are actually less abrasive than the Novus 3. If you know of any pen or bowl turners, they may have a Beall buffing system. It will work wonders in no time.

Hi Richard

Earlier I found some 800 grade wet and dry paper and using it under the tap I was able to smooth out the scratches which thankfully are not very deep. I am now in the process of polishing with Brasso. One section has come out quite nicely and I am working on the next. I may work some other polish (I like the idea of CD polish) and thanks too to Ruaidhri for the suggestion for Gio.

Best wishes

Bruce

I never use power tools for pen resurfacing/polishing. If you do, go large, as in a buffer with a 6 or 8 inch wheel. But I'm not the guy to advise you on using power tools.

I've got the blisters on my fingers from hand finishing to prove it :-)

Depending on the depth of the scratch or scuff I want to remove, I'll start with either 800 grit sandpaper or the coarse side of a foam-padded emery board. If the scratch isn't too deep, then I'll go with the 800 grip paper wrapped around a 2-sided padded emery board and use the polishing side of the board against the pen cap or barrel. (as a side note, I've found some brands of padded emery boards have a polishing side that works beautifully for nib smoothing. But don't experiment with good nibs until you know what you're doing and have an emery board with a very fine polishing surface).

As others have said, always work to keep the area being sanded as round as possible. You don't want flat spots.

After I've taken the surface down enough to hit the bottom of the scratch or scuff, I'll wrap 1000 grit sandpaper around the emery board (polishing side against the pen). I'll go over all sanded areas and expanded the area outward a bit to blend.

Next, I use Novus plastic polish, heavy scratch remover (#3, I think, the chalky white stuff in the green bottle) to bring up a polish. I rub the polish into an old cotton t-shirt rag. Again always expand the area being refinished with each step. I also will polish the entire cap or barrel at this step for an even finish.

If I want even more gloss, I will follow up with Novus Fine Scratch Remover (#2, tan liquid in red bottle) for a final polish over the entire pen. Again, I use an old cotton t-shirt for a rag and rub the polish into the rag.

Hope this helps.

--Karl