The scan does not do justice to the really fine blue threads and the watermarking in the paper. I'm not wild about the color, but if you want a very nice paper that's not white or ivory? Here you are. (And if this paper were white or ivory? I'm so there.)

It's one of those papers that looks as if it's going to be richly textured, but actually it's rather smooth, almost like Frankfurt. There is NO Feathering, even with the very feather prone Pilot Varsity ink; every letter is just as crisp as can be. It also gave outstanding performance in my 10 second smear test -- the ink didn't.
In terms of quality of experience, this paper is almost Zerkall.
If you want a paper that's off the beaten path, this is it.
ETA: The "blobby" letters are because I wrote on this paper late at night when I was tired and goofed in a few places.