I'm getting a new 625 today--and I'm already conspiring to change the nib. I've read that stubs are a good option for someone who wants a bit more flair, but doesn't want to go through the pain of learning to write with an italic nib.

1. It a stub a good choice for a first custom nib?
2. Who would you recommend?
3. Are flex nibs a bad idea for someone disinterested in calligraphy?
4. I normally write with a medium nib, would a medium stub be the logical choice?

Thanks,

Will

You will like stubs -- you may, in fact, become addicted to them. Beware.

1. Yes -- a perfect choice. It's got some line width variation but it's still reasonably smooth.
2. John Mottishaw at www.nibs.com is where I've gotten most of mine. John really has my preferences down by now and they get dialed in just right. Richard Binder at www.richardspens.com is a good source. Deb Kinney also regrinds nibs.
3. Flex nibs are hard to write with and require practice. I tend to write with very light pressure so the flex is lost on me.
4. I normally write with a medium nib and usually choose a broad stub (from Pelikan, in particular). I find a broad stub to be about halfway between a medium and a broad round-tipped nib but the line width variation of a broad makes my writing look cooler. I have a couple of medium stubs but find they don't grab me quite the same way as a broad stub does. Your mileage may vary, of course.

Note: the 625's nib is silver-colored, so you may want to have its nib customized rather than getting a 2-tone nib unit customized and installing it yourself. If, however, you want to keep it "pure" in case you don't like your stub, you will have to put up with a 2-tone nib in a silver pen.

Mike

As above, read all about it at the site of one of the nibmeisters (here's a link to Richard Binder's site - no affiliation just a very satisfied customer). I understand that Richard has a fairly packed order book so if you want something quickly, maybe you could have a bit of a search around...

1. I think so. I actually tried the cursive oblique and italic first and those were great but the stub is even more forgiving but still gives your line character.
2. I only have experience with Richard Binder and Dillo and my own grinds. All good nibs though I don't recommend me as a source. I only grind nibs for fun and on rare occasion.
3. Flex - they can be fun regardless of your interest in the "pen & ink arts" but I agree that they can be challenging to start with for folks new to anything but your basic nib. I'd say if you want to try some flex at some point, look for Esterbrook flex nibs as a relatively cheap first try. Someday you should try one though - I can scribble just as quickly with my flex as any other nib - won't look gorgeous like the work the artists here can do. Legible, still.
4. Last one is tough because I'm not sure what "medium" is anymore. I've got such a range of nibs and brands. My Pelikan 150 B is the same if not a tad finer than my Pelikan Grand Place F. I have .4, .5, and .6 mm stubs and have relatively small handwriting. These widths work well for me. I can use .8 - .9 but don't care to most of the time. I would say my .6 mm stub nib is about the same width as most Western medium nibs. .4 is probably too narrow for you. .6 to .8 would probably be the right range.

my .02

I too am contemplating a stub nib and have asked Richard Binder with respect to the right stroke width for a stub. Richard's advice is to measure the the height of your minuscles (small letters) and the appropriate width is approximately one fifth of the size of your minuscules; for example, my minuscles average about 4mm, so I'd probably be looking at a .8mm stub. Richard did stress to me, however, that this is a rule of thumb and not hard and fast. My standard Western nib is a medium as well. As an option to the stub, I'd been thinking of a cursive italic as my first custom grind, but the consensus of the nib experts is that I'd probably be happier starting with a stub for daily writing.