i'm tempted to try one of the 51-style heroes, as the real 51s i have come across have been priced north of $100.

my conern is that i have a low tolerance for leaking, skipping, and otherwise poor performance. i know from reading reviews and posts that there have been some problem with heroes, but i don't really have a feel for how common these issues are.

so, how likely is it to get a bad one?

and, which one to go for? 100, 329, 330?

thanks for any suggestions!

I was in the same boat as you are. I wanted to do the "51" thing, but didn't want to drop the cash. Ended up purchasing a Hero 100, 616, and 329 from someone on the marketplace. I didn't have any problems with any of them until the day I put that back out on the marketplace.

I'd say go for the 100 myself.

i bought a hero 336 as little as $1.20 SGD. It works just as fine.

I paid £30 ($60) for my 51 aero and I only thought that the price was OK rather than stunning. Perhaps you need to look around more?

There's nothing wrong with the Hero clone for a $10 pen. I have a 100. It came on a blister card, no box. My 100, I bought a fine nib, writes super, no problems of anykind. At a distance you can't tell the difference between the real deal and the Hero. When you pick it up, the first thing you notice is how light it is. The cap is not the quality as the real one, it's pretty thin and maybe aluminum. The jewel seems to be the machined from aluminum also. On my real Parkers, they are plastic. Another thing is the sqeeze bulb on the aerometric converter is a different plastic material than the original and ink, any ink, stains it badly to the point where mine at least, is not tranparent anymore. Not a big deal. Overall, it is a nice pen for the money, mine functions fine.

Oh, I think on the 100, and mine is downstairs and I'm too lazy to get it, the clutch ring is suppose to be a view window to tell you how much ink is left in the pen. This is a pretty useless feature, as I remember not being able to see thru it anyway.

For the price, if I got a bad one, I wouldn't fuss about it, I'd just toss it away.

I bought a "user" grade "51" at an antique store for $8.
To work properly all it needed was to be flushed.

I'd look a little bit more for "the real deal" ....

I have a 100 that I bought from Todd at isellpens.com for $20something. I've loaded it with PR Chocolat since the first day it arrived. The fine nib lays down the smooth, even line and I've never had any leaking or skipping problems with it.

Surprisingly consistent fine line. The finish is cheap, but then so is the pen - har har! But the line's the thing; it's the, er, bottom line. So I'd say try it out.

Me, I just rediscovered my Sheaffer Crest (not cheap), inked it with Old Manhattan Black, and it is a dream to write with. So... Heroes are abandoned for overall quality, the line and all.

I've gotten three Hero pens of late... the two 100's I have are pretty decent for the price they aren't Parker quality, but I do think they are fine for daily, potentially abusive, work use.
Neither of mine have the "visible" clutch ring, both are solid metal. And neither of them has stained at all in the ink-sack area... even with Bay State Blue ink...
My third Hero, the 001 360, is nothing to write home about, its a competent writer that feels pretty much like a ballpoint, so it doesn't get much use.

Once you figure in shipping and the possible "hit or miss" quality of Hero pens (I do like 2/3rds of my Heros)... waiting a bit and digging around to find a nice "51" might be worth your while... I've seen several "51"s go on the 'bay lately around 50usd... not too shabby and can be easily fixed by many of the fine professionals here.

It is. I go to great lengths to seek out true fine lines (or my preception of them), this had it out of the box. Go figure.

I'd look around for a 51. I got one on Ebay for around $40.

I have a 100 in stainless I got off the Marketplace. It's a joy to write with.

I also have a 132 (which isn't really a 51 clone as much as a different take on a hooded nib pen) that works very nicely.

My next gold-nibbed Hero may be a 110.

I only have one non-gold-nibbed Hero. It's a new 329. It isn't nearly as enjoyable as the others, but it is also loaded with my most challenging ink (PR Grey Flannel). I will eventually put a friendlier ink in it. I have also been thinking about buying other non-gold Heros some time soon because I think it's possible I might have just gotten a semi-lemon.

If you want a 51, get a 51.
If you want a decent, inexpensive FP, get a Hero.

I think decent is an understatement, but I'd have to agree that for most the Hero just isn't going to satisfy the desire for a 51. A 21 Super would probably be a much better substitute.

The Hero is a really good cheap way to determine whether a person likes the hooded nib concept if you ask me, though.

The Hero 100s are the top of the Hero 51 clone line. They are more expensive than the other Hero 51 clones. I have even read somewhere that there are even Hero 100 knock-offs.
My 100 has a metal clutch ring and no ink-view window. It writes faultlessly and copes with any ink I put in it. I currently have some of Parker's pen-killer ink - Parker Penman Sapphire, and previously Ebony - in it and it hasn't dried out or skipped.
Mine came in a presentation box and has a stainless steel cap that is the equivalent of my real 51 in fit and finish. If you are going to buy a 100, make sure it comes with the presentation box. My current one came from iSellPens. I have two more in the mail, a stainless-steel model, and a bling-bling one. The main reason I ordered this one is the extra weight. My hands are fairly solid due to a mis-spent youth making metal water tanks, and I feel more comfortable with a slightly heavier pen.


The next models down are the 329 series. There are two versions - old-style and new-style. Both are well-made, economical models. The old-style 329 is just like a cheaper 100, but with a clear plastic ink-view window between the section and the ink-barrel. It too, will take any ink you feed it, and will write on anything that will accept ink. The new-style 329 has a more modern look and a finer nib, ideal for maths and engineering students. Because of the very fine nib, this one needs a lush black ink like Penman Ebony, Private Reserve Velvet Black or Sheaffer Skrip Black. Parker Quink (and probably Waterman) inks are too thin to work well in this pen.

Next model down is the 616. This is a more 'industrial' pen than the 329s and comes in two sizes, normal and jumbo. The normal size matches the 100 and 329 pens in size, while the jumbo is a little larger and is almost identical to a real P51 in all dimensions.

I haven't tried any of the other Hero 51 clones (and there are number of them) but these are the ones that have the most positive comments.

Also, you can feel confident taking your Hero pens out of the house, because losing one won't break the bank or your heart. My P51 is definitely a stay-at-home pen.

I have several Hero pens, amoung them a stainless Steel 100 and a 616. They write very well and I use them constantly.

I have several Hero pens; a flighter 100, a maroon 616, a green 329, and a flighter 828. I also have a 330 which I got out of a 3/$10 bin at the Dallas Pen Show last fall, but I don't count that, as it was already pretty junked when I got it. The 828 is not a Parker clone, and it is the only one with a medium nib, and is the lowest quality of the 4. It writes fine, if you like a medium nib, but the fit and finish is not as good as the others.

The 3 P 51 types were my favorite pens until I got a few Dani Trios. I still keep them in the rotation, and actually purchased a bunch of 616's for resale, some of which I have sold to friends who wanted an inexpensive, but nice pen.

None of them are the equal of the P51; however, the 100 flighter cost me less than 1/4 the cost of the least expensive 51 I own, and the 329 and 616 are noticeably less expensive than the 100.

Donnie

True, the Heros aren't up to Janesville standards, but the price to fun ratio is high -- if you get a good one.

The 329/330 is adequate if you want a taste of the hooded nib life. For $5 at isellpens.com (usual disclaimer applies), you can't beat it.

The 616 is OK, but I would agree with others that a Parker Super 21 would be better. Plus the quality on these pens are up and down.

The 100 is the best approximation of a "51." I got a stainless steel model and it has been the least finicky, most reliable Hero I have. I paid $25 for mine, and to get a decent gold nib that consistently puts down a nice fine line for that price is a more than fair deal.

But don't give up one finding an affordable "51," or its cousin, the 21. Ernesto over at parker51.com has some NOS Super 21 FP/MP sets for $50 and decent user grade "51s" can still be found in the $30-50 range.

I've bought seven Hero 100 pens in the last four years. Four of them were for gifts, my wife stole one, and I have one in pretty constant use. The seventh 100 developed a crack in its hooded section (the plastic was too thin, the innards were jammed in there too hard, or the cap was too tight -- take your pick). So my very small sample has about a 14% failure rate. As Mr. Haase (His Nibs) has written a few times, his experience was that about 1 in 5 of the 100s he sold had the same problem.

Todd at isellpens.com immediately offered to replace my cracked pen, but I decided I would rather open it up and see how it worked. As for putting a line of ink on paper, 6 of my 7 Hero 100 pens are just stellar writers, if you like a very fine line of about normal wetness. I've had no troubles with them drying out. While most were exceptionally smooth-writing right out of the box, a couple had to be "written in" over the course of a couple of weeks.

I don't know where people are finding $40 P51 pens -- I've been watching eBay for a while and I find that they tend to end up a bit north of $60.

As it happens, I have been "north of 60" eight times, and have eight P51 pens from various sources. The single Hero 100 I have left is of the same writing quality as my best Parker 51s. The maroon model looks pretty sharp, too.

Is the Hero 100 the same quality as my Parker 51 pens? Not quite. But very, very close. And it writes as smoothly as any.

If the pens only cost $30 you might consider buying two: you would have only about a 2% chance of a double failure (and the seller would likely agree to replace them anyways, especially if you asked him/her about it before purchasing).

But I also suggest you accept that, sooner or later, and no matter what you decide about the Hero pens, you are going to buy a 51.

Hope this helps.

Mike B

I own several 329s and one 187. I don't use the last one much, but the 329s are nice lightweight pens. I've gotten quite a lot of use out of them so far.

The quality of the Hero 100 is inconsistent. Some of them are problem free, and others are not. I wasn't one of the lucky ones. Mines writes nicely right after I fill it, but the next day it takes a lot of effort to coax it back to life. In my 100, ink evaporates in a few days.

Also, apart from the hooded nib, they really don't look like a Parker 51. If you want a cheap pen that looks like a Parker 51, and is dependable, I recommend a Parker 21.

At a pen club meeting I got three pens from a fellow pen nut. A Pilot Custom in Cherry wood, a Conway Stewart amber Dandy (modern) and he threw in a black Hero 100. I have since sold the Conway Stewart and have tried to sell the Pilot Custom and plan to keep the best writter in the bunch the Hero100!

Many pens have a vent in the cap. Read elsewhere on the FPN for discussions re pro and con for these vents.
I have a Parker Sonnet which had this problem. After reading this on Rick Connor's website (scroll down to the orange section above the picture of the Sanford ink bottle) I sealed the end of the cap with candle wax.

I did this years ago with my Sonnet, and more recently with my Hero 100 and two 329s. Since then I have been using Parker Penman ink (aka the pen-killer) in the 100 and one of the 329s with no problems.

Methode Enwaxement (Sorry, just trying to add a little class to the discussion...)
Put a tea light candle on the stove. Gently heat it until all the wax melts and is thin and runny. You should not get it so hot that it bursts into flame and burns the kitchen down. Dip the end of the pen cap in the wax. The gap in the cap is usually hidden under the clip, so you have to go deep enough to let the wax run into that little hole. Remove cap, let cool and wipe off the excess wax.

Do not do this to your precious pens that you are keeping for posterity or as an investment. This should only be done to working pens that are easily replaceable. Also, check if you need to do it first. If your pen doesn't dry out when capped, it has a good working internal seal and doesn't need this process. If the pen does dry out when capped, then put the open end of the cap to your mouth and see if you can blow through it. If a noticeable amount of air goes through, then it needs to be sealed.

Yes, I agree that this is the likely problem. When I hold the clip up to a strong light and look into the cap, I can see a small amount of light entering the cap. The light is coming from the area where the clip attaches to the cap. Some time ago, I tried to seal that area (from the inside of the cap) with epoxy, but it's a very small area, in a very tight space, and I probably missed the area altogether. I'll give your suggestion a try. Thank you!!!!!!

thanks for the comments.

i'm after a inexpensive fine point that lays down a wet line, is reliable, not a screw cap, and easily obtained (i'm not an ebay fan). the lamy safari would fit the bill except i don't like the taper on the grip.

i may roll the dice on one of the $10 heroes. looks like a 100 would be close to $30 with shipping and that's a little more than i'd like to gamble.

i appreciate everyone's help!

A hero 329 or 330 will suit you prefectly then. Get at least two, though -- quality control is a bit iffy at that price level, and you do get duds (some things can be fixed, but a bad nib is a bad nib!). Occasionally you will find one with the barrel shellaced on, so you can't fill it! That can be repaired by dipping the pen in hot water until the shellac lets go.

I have a number of these pens, one currently filled with FPN Gallileo Manuscript Brown, which has given me problems in other pens. Works great in my 330!

Peter

I don't have a real 51, so i can't compare, but i've had good lick with more Hero 110, 329, 330. Not quite sure why, but i like the 110 the best so far.

I don't have the 100 model but I do have the Hero 563 model which I am happy with.............if this helps.

Man, now I have to get one of these. I think I'm going to end up ordering a 110 and one of the chrome versions of the 132.

A Hero certainly isn't a Parker, but I have had very good luck with my Heroes. I have four at the moment, a 100, a 187, a 618, and a 700.

Lisa

I have two Heros, and both of them write very well. They also look decent, which is pretty much all I want from a pen.

However, the piston converters that Hero makes are terrible. To fill mine up, I had to dip the nib, pull up the plunger, take the converter off, push the plunger back down, and repeat until I had a sizable amount of ink.

The aerometric converter that was in the other pen was great, though.

I'd get the Hero, as it's so cheap. Then, if you don't like it, you can lay down the money for the Parker.

I have two Heros. They're ok. Nothing fantastic, I like my little Kaigelu a lot more (also Chinese). But then, plastic pens are too light for my long fingers unless it's a Sheaffer cartridge pen. But Heros store a lot of ink in them. And if I lose or break them, I just go back for another cheap one.

You know, though, if you want a Parker, though, I'd get a Parker. Every time I've "settled" rather than gotten what I wanted, it's really been a disappointment - from my first computer to my first husband.

~Kim

Yea!

I've got a handful of 329s and 331s. They are good knockabout pens - just don't expect them to be as good as premium pens. Generally, they are on the 'toothy' side. But some of us like our pens to write that way. If you are like this, go for a Hero (or two). You'll be delightfully surprised.

But if you are looking for that 'writing-on-glass' feel in your pens, perhaps you'd better steer clear of them. Of course, I am only talking about the 329s and the 331s - can't say anything about other models, though. I don't own any other models.

Yeah, what he said. I have a 51, it's a great pen. I have a Hero 100, it's a great pen. Both are regularly inked in both get lots of use, possibly the Hero more. I carry that with me and I don't carry the 51 out of the house. Both are smooth, instant starters and wet.

Cheers,

Bill J