Hi, all. I'm relatively new to fountain pens and am enjoying them (and this site) very much. I'm looking forward to the LA pen show this weekend! I have a couple questions.

I have a new Waterman Phileas pen, a couple weeks old. At first it wrote beautifully. Now it regularly dries up as I'm writing, and the only way I can get it moving again is to turn the piston and get a drop or two to come out and prime the nib. (Obviously not a very convenient way to use it.) What am I doing wrong? How does one deal with a dry scratchy line?

And, apropos of such questions: what would be a good manual for a fountain pen novice about maintenance and repair? I'm not the sort who will be replacing the sacs in his pens - but I'd like to spare Fred at the Fountain Pen Shop in Monrovia from having to fix all my tiny problems like this!

Many thanks!
Tom

Nip around to the drug store and get an ear-bulb (or ear syringe, they're sometimes called). Dismount the converter and use the bulb to blow vast doses of water through where the ink normally trickles. A barely perceptible amount of dish soap in a large glass of water is not a bad idea-- it's a little early in the game to go looking for ammonia. This treatment should clear out both residual ink and the likely culprit behind the trouble, schmutz left by the manufacturing process.

If that doesn't turn the trick, I'm sure some smart person at the Pen Show (which I'm too far away from to attend and thus acting childishly stupid pen show for jerks!) will be able to suggest a remedy-- the Phileas is one of the best values in terms of function/$ around, and should work better than that.

We might also enquire-- what ink do you use? Sometimes a specific ink and a particular model of pen don't get along with one another.

Thanks, Ernst! I'll try the ear bulb syringe.

I'm using Private Reserve ink, which should be okay. After my post, I also read Richard Binder's comments on adjusting a nib, which were helpful. One way or another, I should get this Phileas running more smoothly.

Thanks again. I'll think of you while perusing the aisles at the Pen Show this weekend!
Tom

As far as a repair manual; I would suggest Da Book - the late Frank Dubiel's "The Complete Guide to Repair and Restoration". While several repair techniques have been improved on in the last few years, most of the manual is still appropriate and a great guide for understanding your pen. Check out Pendemonium; http://www.pendemonium.com/ under the Reference Books section - repair manuals.

Most notable of the new techniques is the use of a heat source other than open flame. Modern adjustable temperature heat guns are far superior to open flame in that you can avoid turning your pen barrel into a torch. Some hard core (and experienced) repairers still use open flame, but most have switched to the more sane method.
Additionally, Frank was a fan of rubber cement and nail polish - most people avoid those.


Have fun!

http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/in...mp;#entry513110

I got this response over at the Waterman forum about PR and Phileas interaction-- it's not what one might call a ringing endorsement. Get some cheap ink, like Quink or Skrip, and give that a try. You might find it runs better on that.

As far as manuals-- I second the qualified recommendation above, as long as it's taken in light of the material found in this forum. After all, it's free advice from some of the most qualified pen-ticklers in the world today, along with random bursts of noise from semi-informed goons like me.

Another vote for Da book--its a great resource.