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The Fountain Pen Network > General Pen Topics > Repair Q&A
rtrinkner
Hi folks,

I'm a pen reconditioner newby, considering buying a Dremel. In particular, I'd like one to help remove the pellets in Vacumatics, and perform other miscellaneous non-professional pen repairs.

Which model Dremel would you recommend? Which Dremel bits would you recommend?

In particular, which bits are recommended for the pellet extraction/griding?

Also, are there any good Dremel bits for cleaning the visulated portion of the Vac barrel of old ink to improve visibility? In the past, I've used an diluted amonia solution and a test tube brush.
SMG
QUOTE(rtrinkner @ Feb 10 2008, 05:09 PM) [snapback]509768[/snapback]
Hi folks,

I'm a pen reconditioner newby, considering buying a Dremel. In particular, I'd like one to help remove the pellets in Vacumatics, and perform other miscellaneous non-professional pen repairs.

Which model Dremel would you recommend? Which Dremel bits would you recommend?

In particular, which bits are recommended for the pellet extraction/griding?

Also, are there any good Dremel bits for cleaning the visulated portion of the Vac barrel of old ink to improve visibility? In the past, I've used an diluted amonia solution and a test tube brush.

I have the hand held rechargeable one that looks like some wierd space pistol. Works great. I have the small Dremel brand carbide burr (rounded one about 3mm diameter) and that is all I use for removing pellets.

I have not used a dremel tool to go inside the barrel of a Vac, a test tube brush and ammonia water solution with some scraping here and there with a chop stick or dulled dental tool is all that I have ever needed. The barrel of a Vac is not totally smooth, there is a somewhat smooth portion from about half way down but where the diaphragm sits is a larger diameter inside and is rough.

Cheers,
Sean
BubbaT
QUOTE(rtrinkner @ Feb 10 2008, 11:09 AM) [snapback]509768[/snapback]
Hi folks,

I'm a pen reconditioner newby, considering buying a Dremel. In particular, I'd like one to help remove the pellets in Vacumatics, and perform other miscellaneous non-professional pen repairs.

Which model Dremel would you recommend? Which Dremel bits would you recommend?

In particular, which bits are recommended for the pellet extraction/griding?

Also, are there any good Dremel bits for cleaning the visulated portion of the Vac barrel of old ink to improve visibility? In the past, I've used an diluted amonia solution and a test tube brush.

I probably would not get a dremel, unless I wanted a cordless one. Then depending on my needs I would get one of the Doggie Claw Clipping/Golf Shoe Cleaning/Pumpkin Carving ones. If I were not concerned about quality and wanted cheap I could find one at my local hardware store for about $10-$20. If I wanted a quality tool, but just a standard tool I would go with a Proxxon. If I wanted high quality I
would go for a Weecher or a Foredom.

The bit I would get depends on the tool, but let me suggest a place: www.widgetsupply.com
it has bits I can't find anyplace else and a lot cheaper.
rtrinkner
Thanks for the responses!
danielfalgerho
For operations requiring really precise control such a grinding Vacumatic pellets, I believe a slender unit you can hold pencil style works much better than a pistol grip. Then again, if you have a part in student sci-fi movie, the pistol grip type is better...
An AC unit will give you years of service (probably) but with a cordless you will have to replace NiCad batteries periodically. IF they are available at a reasonable, price, IF they're not discontinued, IF you can reasonably service the unit yourself rather than send it to the manufacturer (that may be in China)
As for bits, you can get nice set from www.tryphon.it or many other sources, or look at the task and take it from there. For Vac pellets the small (1 mm or so) straight bit work well. And your dentist probably discards a lot after use. Too dull for teeth but fine for plastics...
Good luck,
d

QUOTE(rtrinkner @ Feb 10 2008, 05:09 PM) [snapback]509768[/snapback]
Hi folks,

I'm a pen reconditioner newby, considering buying a Dremel. In particular, I'd like one to help remove the pellets in Vacumatics, and perform other miscellaneous non-professional pen repairs.

Which model Dremel would you recommend? Which Dremel bits would you recommend?

In particular, which bits are recommended for the pellet extraction/griding?

Also, are there any good Dremel bits for cleaning the visulated portion of the Vac barrel of old ink to improve visibility? In the past, I've used an diluted amonia solution and a test tube brush.

SMG
Daniel, don't knock the rechargeable pistol type until you try it. I have both types here, the pistol and the older inline type. The new pistol version is way easier to use, it weighs half of the old version and you can rest the grip on the bench for support when getting those pesky pellets out. BTW I got the idea for this one from Aaron Svabik at the TO pen show. Much easier to control as the weight of the unit is alongside your hand and not cantilevered way out there. The soft start and speed adjustments are easy to reach as well.

The burr that I use is 1.4mm diameter, I was off on my pervious estimate. I have been using the stylus version since July of last year and would never go back. It has done about 50 or so vacs in that time as well as other polishing and whatnot. The old inline version I have is now mounted in a Pana-vise and is used strictly for nib grinding.
The pistol version is really quite nice, as there is a small delta shaped grip at the tip which gives you fine motor control with your fingertips, but the weight of it is supported by the web of your hand. I hold the filler against the bench and support the bottom of the pistol grip on the bench as well. Then turn it up to full whack and slowly feed the burr into the pellet, 9 times out of 10 the pellet will melt onto the burr and come right out.

Dremel Stylus

Cheers,
Sean
Ray-Vigo
I avoid using Dremel tools (at least the standard shop models) on delicate pen operations since the RPMs start off quite high and just go up from there. The faster it spins, the faster it removes material (assuming your pressure stays the same). I use them to grind rust from metal bicycle and cars parts and they do wonders on that. I stay away from delicate operations though since they can remove material quite quickly.
rogerb
The 'pistol' rechargeable Dremel is called the Stylus...I have just got one, in the sales, mainly for my dog's Grizzly-bear claws !!
She will allow me to do one at a time, before the Grizzly teeth are shown ohmy.gif

Super little tool, but starts at high rpm, as mentioned so might be a bit risky for pens(it certainly would be in my hands!!)

[If you do want to use one for the dog, the cylindrical sanding drums are best, I was advised! The grinding bits get too hot sad.gif )]
OldGriz
As a restorer this is my take on the Dremel tools...
The only thing that I consider a Dremel good for in pen restoration is getting the old pellet out of a Vac filler and grinding nibs...
DO NOT use a Dremel to polish the bodies of pens... you will either burn the material or take off big honkin globs of it. Even at the lowest speed they are just too fast.

HOWEVER, there are other tools, like the Foredom and it's ilk, that when used with the variable speed pedal are wonderful for refrosting or polishing caps, etc...
gilster
QUOTE(Ray-Vigo @ Feb 13 2008, 07:27 PM) [snapback]513369[/snapback]
I avoid using Dremel tools (at least the standard shop models) on delicate pen operations since the RPMs start off quite high and just go up from there. The faster it spins, the faster it removes material (assuming your pressure stays the same). I use them to grind rust from metal bicycle and cars parts and they do wonders on that. I stay away from delicate operations though since they can remove material quite quickly.


I'm curious, then, to know what you use for Vac pellet removal (assuming you work on Vacs) if you don't drill the pellet out in some fashion. What other methods are available?

Paul
OldGriz
QUOTE(gilster @ Feb 14 2008, 01:50 PM) [snapback]514221[/snapback]
QUOTE(Ray-Vigo @ Feb 13 2008, 07:27 PM) [snapback]513369[/snapback]
I avoid using Dremel tools (at least the standard shop models) on delicate pen operations since the RPMs start off quite high and just go up from there. The faster it spins, the faster it removes material (assuming your pressure stays the same). I use them to grind rust from metal bicycle and cars parts and they do wonders on that. I stay away from delicate operations though since they can remove material quite quickly.


I'm curious, then, to know what you use for Vac pellet removal (assuming you work on Vacs) if you don't drill the pellet out in some fashion. What other methods are available?

Paul


Removing the pellet from a Vac is not what one would consider a delicate operation.... I use a Dremel... you just need to be careful.... just like using any other power tool...
Ray-Vigo
QUOTE(OldGriz @ Feb 14 2008, 02:00 PM) [snapback]514237[/snapback]
QUOTE(gilster @ Feb 14 2008, 01:50 PM) [snapback]514221[/snapback]
QUOTE(Ray-Vigo @ Feb 13 2008, 07:27 PM) [snapback]513369[/snapback]
I avoid using Dremel tools (at least the standard shop models) on delicate pen operations since the RPMs start off quite high and just go up from there. The faster it spins, the faster it removes material (assuming your pressure stays the same). I use them to grind rust from metal bicycle and cars parts and they do wonders on that. I stay away from delicate operations though since they can remove material quite quickly.


I'm curious, then, to know what you use for Vac pellet removal (assuming you work on Vacs) if you don't drill the pellet out in some fashion. What other methods are available?

Paul


Removing the pellet from a Vac is not what one would consider a delicate operation.... I use a Dremel... you just need to be careful.... just like using any other power tool...



I concur- when you have to drill something out then you have to drill it out. You could indeed use a Dremel on that operation. However I would beware of trying to use the Dremel more generally, especially around celluloid or older plastics since they do remove surface material quite quickly (even with the softest buffer attached).
gilster
QUOTE(Ray-Vigo @ Feb 14 2008, 03:34 PM) [snapback]514329[/snapback]
I concur- when you have to drill something out then you have to drill it out. You could indeed use a Dremel on that operation. However I would beware of trying to use the Dremel more generally, especially around celluloid or older plastics since they do remove surface material quite quickly (even with the softest buffer attached).


Fair enough. Any thoughts on the best type of burr to use to get that pellet out?
Ron Z
I have a Dremel, have used a Dremel, but find that the flex shaft tools with the foot pedal are much better for most operations. You have better control of both the tool speed and bit. The ability to continuously vary the speed is critical.

I use the tool for a wide range of operations including removing pellets, removing oxidation from various metal parts, cutting, etc. I DO NOT use the tool for polishing pens. It's far too easy to burn the celluloid or hard rubber. It's a combination of tool size (small) and speed (high). If tempted, resist the temptation!

danielfalgerho
Well, I stand corrected. Personally I've had lousy luck with rechargeable units (Craftsman) battery longevity being a problem and, for critical work I get better control by holding the tool close the chuck side.
d
QUOTE(SMG @ Feb 13 2008, 05:08 AM) [snapback]512561[/snapback]
Daniel, don't knock the rechargeable pistol type until you try it. I have both types here, the pistol and the older inline type. The new pistol version is way easier to use, it weighs half of the old version and you can rest the grip on the bench for support when getting those pesky pellets out. BTW I got the idea for this one from Aaron Svabik at the TO pen show. Much easier to control as the weight of the unit is alongside your hand and not cantilevered way out there. The soft start and speed adjustments are easy to reach as well.

The burr that I use is 1.4mm diameter, I was off on my pervious estimate. I have been using the stylus version since July of last year and would never go back. It has done about 50 or so vacs in that time as well as other polishing and whatnot. The old inline version I have is now mounted in a Pana-vise and is used strictly for nib grinding.
The pistol version is really quite nice, as there is a small delta shaped grip at the tip which gives you fine motor control with your fingertips, but the weight of it is supported by the web of your hand. I hold the filler against the bench and support the bottom of the pistol grip on the bench as well. Then turn it up to full whack and slowly feed the burr into the pellet, 9 times out of 10 the pellet will melt onto the burr and come right out.

Dremel Stylus

Cheers,
Sean

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