Can someone check my ink sac selection? I have two Sheaffer Jr.s which from what I havd found, should take a 15 - 2 1/8" necked sac, and an Esterbrook that I am trying to make sure what model it is, but it appears that they all take a 16 sac. Does that sound correct?

Now, next.. using ammonia and water in a 1-10 part solution (1 part ammonia) is it safe to soak nibs and sections in this or should it only be used for flushing?

One last one, on the Esterbrook, the clip is loose and kind of needs to have the ring part bent down to tighten it to the cap body. I have removed the inner cap and the top jewel already and see that the clip is retained with a brass retainer that has been peened to maybe 60 degrees into the clip. I can easily tighten this clip up, but what I would like to do is to remove it so the cap can be refurbished. Is there a trick to removing the clip? It appears that I would need to pry the beveled brass to center in order to remove the clip. I can leave it, but polishing the pen with a buffer would work better with it removed.

Oh, and I almost forgot, what is the best way to remove the barrel "sleeve" that the ink sac sits on in order to remove the J-clip so I can clean some rust off the J-clip and clean inside the body??

Thanks guys!

OK - first, the Sheaffers - chances are that you can get by with a #16 sac. Take the old sac out, shove the new sac in the barrel and trim off at the barrel edge. Then line up the open end of the sac with the edge of the section where it meets the barrel. Note how much you need to cut off for the sac to fit on the section, cut it a little short and attach it to the section.

2] The Esterbrook - the SJ, (small one) and the J both take a #16 if the J has a sac stabilizer. If the J doesn't have one (older ones and the Dollar pens didn't) use a #18

3] You can soak the nibs in the ammonia solution

4] Don't even think about removing the Esterbrook clip if it's rivited. Seriously. You'll be sending the pen to me or some other restorer if you try, and I'll have to charge a pretty penny to put it back on. I've replaced clips, but have decided that it would be cheaper for the client to simply replace the cap.

Having said that, you can lift up gently under the clip with a small screw driver, and push down on the end of the clip to tighten it against the cap. If it's up really high, buy another pen.

5] The J bar - this is where the rather pragmatic side of me surfaces. If I don't have to, I don't remove the J bar. If it's a bit dusty and rusty inside, it doesn't matter. The crud won't get into the sac, and won't get out of the pen. Sometimes leaving well enough alone is better. I've seen J bars break when pulled out, barrels crack... If it ain't broke......

6] If you don't have a copy of "Da Book" buy one. Just ignore Frank's instructions to use: open flame, nail polish, rubber cement, baby power and a few items that escape me at the moment.

Thanks Ron, I will polish the cap with the clip loose and then tighten it. I have a metal lathe, so I plan to turn a quick punch with a matching taper and support the underside with a transfer punch. Then I can re-peen the rivet that holds the clip in place nice and tight. Sadly, I then have to make a new top jewel to replace the damaged one.

Thanks for the heads up on the lever and J-bar. I didn't want to break it, but it was a little rough looking and I was afraid it would abride the sac and cause it to fail. I may try to sand it with a small dowel and fine sandpaper stuck to it.

Da Book is in the works, but being an hands on kind of guy, I like to figure it out on my own at times.