I couldn't find my original posting of this mix, so here's a repeat. This mix is half Noodlers Aquamarine and half PR Black Magic Blue. To my eye it's a great blue with violet tones, and while the BMB will run off with water, the Aquamarine is waterproof.


StephenB

[deleted...wrong post! :-) ]

I like the way Waterman's Blue-Black goes on paper, but the way it dries into a teal blue green bugs me. So I played around with mixes a bit. 4:3 Waterman Blue Black to Pelikan Violet makes a nice blurple color very close to Diamine's Imperial Blue. Maybe a shade darker. It dries definitely blue and takes that teal green out.

Thanks for the hint, StephY. I have just received a bottle of Noodlers Navy that came in more green than I was expecting. I'll try adding a little violet to it.

Stephen

Waterman-Aurora Blue Green

Click to view attachment

Roughly 4 parts Waterman Green to 1 part Aurora Blue
The 4:1 ratio isn't very strict, and you can play around with it a bit to achieve lighter or darker tones. This had a bit more blue that I'd intended though.

Still a purdy color!

Darkening J. Herbin Vert Olive
I mixed 8:1 Vert Olive with Perle Noir, and got a nice dark green (like a military olive green, similar to MB Racing Green, I think) that's perfectly usable in fine-nibbed pens. And it keeps the wonderful shading that Herbin is known for. It's easy to adjust the mix ratio to go lighter or darker.

Neill

Blue & Blackberry Rush

While I enjoy drinking Naked Juice's Blue & Blackberry rush, I specifically liked the color. In order to re-create that color for a writing ink I mixed:

4 parts Rohrer & Klinger's Fernambuk (red color)
1 part Waterman's Florida Blue

The ink has an amazing separation of color between it's red and blue components. I have used it in several pens without problem. The penmanship scans show the comparison between my B & B Rush, to Skrip violet, and Waterman Florida blue.

Found some recipes online, posting them here:
Quick Iron Gall Ink !!!NOT for FPs, but seems interesting enough

1 part gum arabic -> used in candy making; try supermarkets or baking supply shops
2 parts copperas (=vitriol) -> weed killer; try garden supplies
1.8 parts pure tannin -> chemists, or lab suppliers
30 parts of red wine

Heat the wine to about 50-60 degrees Centigrade.
Add tannin, stir.
Add copperas, stir.
Add gum arabic, stir.

Traditional Iron Gall Ink !!!NOT for FPs, but seems interesting enough

1 part gum arabic
2 parts copperas (=vitriol)
3 parts gall apples -> see local oak trees
30 parts of water

Crush the galls finely.
Add water.
Stir. Let stand for 1-2 days in the sun.
Add copperas.
Stir. Let stand for 1-2 days in the sun.
Add gum arabic.
Stir, sieve and bottle
Ready!

There are also a LOT of ink recipes here (no pictures though): http://pens.www4.50megs.com/ink/inkrecipes.htm
The site doesn't seem to be maintained anymore (last update was 10/01/2000), so I'm copying the recipes into a text file in case they take it down (see attachment).

My Pelikan Dark moss mix:


Moved from it's own thread here where it should be!

I'm probably repeating myself with this recipe, but here goes anyway. The two inks are both Noodlers: golden brown and Navajo turquoise.





I like best the 1:1 or 2:3 mix of golden brown to turquoise.

Stephen

Namiki/Pilot Blue with Noodler's Eternal Luxury Blue, in any proportion, is a safe mixture that behaves much better on paper than straight Lux Blue and looks good, too. Both components are water-resistant, and the latter of course should still cause most attempts at chemical removal to fail spectacularly.

The mix I'm using now is about 1:1.
Test paper: Ampad Evidence Recycled (actually good for almost all inks, even Pilot/Namiki Black).
Dry time: several hours.
Tap water test: no running at all.
Liquid hand soap test: Soapy water lifted the Pilot/Namiki but left the Noodler's Eternal there.

In this thread, jdboucher mentioned a 1:1 mix of PR Tanzanite and PR American Blue.

I would like to call this blend TanzAm Blue. It is now my favourite blue, at least for this week. It is my Cinderella 'Just Right' blue.



The purple from the Tanzanite has disappeared in all but bright blue-white fluorescent light, but the dark blue of the American Blue has lightened up just a little. It ended up between Lake Placid Blue and American Blue.

Thank you, jdboucher, for bringing this blend to my attention.

A true Blue-Black, now?



Click me!

I am a bit new to the ink mixing, I have tried to darken inks by not leaning my converter (with black ink) prior to adding colors. I have been noticing the eye dropper style bottles from Noodlers, and see that there is some type of "eye drop" fill pens? I was thinking the eye dropper bottles would be good for mixing. Is this what is commonly used?

2 parts Noodlers Polar Blue with 1 part Diamine WES Imperial Blue.

Improves the colour to darker blue - still bulletproof.

Finally, I have been able make a fair facsimile of Parker Penman Sapphire, both in colour and behaviour.

I was inspired by jdboucher's use of PR Tanzanite to brighten up PR American Blue.

I decided to see what I could do with Noodler's Ottoman Azure and PR Tanzanite.
And it worked!!

I started off with 10 drops of Ottoman Azure and 2 drops of Tanzanite. This is very close, however, the Penman Sapphire still has a touch of green, and was a little lighter than the facsimile. I experimented a little more and ended up with this formula --

Noodler's Ottoman Azure : 60
PR Tanzanite : 8
PR Blue Suede : 4
You can drop the Blue Suede (or any other similar teal) if you want.

And these are the results --




The original Parker Penman Sapphire swatch is on the top, and the Faux Penman Sapphire #8b is on the bottom.



This shows how the ink writes in a normal Jinhao Long March pen. As you can see, the Parker Penman Sapphire is on the left, and the Faux Penman Sapphire #8b on the right.




This image shows that both inks have similar bleeding properties. The sample was written on Pukka Pad paper, which has mild feathering and bleeding properties.



Finally, this shows the feathering properties. The original Penman Sapphire is on the left, and the Faux Sapphire on the right. The imitation perhaps has a tad more feathering than the original, perhaps because I used the PR Tanzanite. A similar bright blue-purple with better behaviour might give better results.

I think I am finally satisfied with a practical replacement for Parker Penman Sapphire.

can't see the pics?

True, but keep in mind that these forums are much more readable if long posts are quoted when it isn't needed.

Hello,

I am not sure that I understand your point. If they aren't attached and you can't see them (I tried show the the pic in a right click), then they aren't much help.

I am hoping that the author will email me the pic/scan so that I can compare the two as I saw in his/her other recipies.

So, I still wonder if this is my computer issue?

Thanks.

oh one more thing. I can see them in the original post either.

Thanks


I mean't that I can't see them in the original post.

My point was that you quoted the entire original message (33 lines) to say that the pictures weren't showing up, which fills up a big fraction of a page, making the thread harder to read. Trimming long quotes enhances readability. I meant that as a constructive suggestion.

I host ink scans off site too. Usually what happens when the images don't show up are that the poster (I've done this too) puts in the wrong url for the image in the post, or the site is offline. It would be nice if more people could put their scans here so they wouldbe around as long as FPN is, but the attachment space is only 4.88 MB, which is not that hard to max out.

StephenB

I just tried to take the quote off. Looks like I see your quote still. I hear what you are saying about cutting out the long quotes. Having said that, quotes are usually used in "and I quote". Here I believe that they help in Identifying who and what you are responding to.

At the end of the day, I will try to cut out the extraneous stuff in a quote. I still want the scans or pic to compare. Since, the author is in Australia, I suspect that I can get that either through pm or on the forum tomorrow.

Be well.

Sorry guys, I don't know what happened. I had to re-save the images before I could see them as someone else than me.
I could see the images when I logged in as me. However, when I logged in as a guest, I could not see them.
I have re-saved them, and re-posted them.
All should be well now.

Black cherry

4 to 5 parts Rohrer & Klinger Fernambuk with 1 part Aurora Black. In terms of color, it's nothing special. Just a dark red. But the shading characteristics are incredible. With a flexible nib, depending upon the amount of pressure on the nib, you can have variance of color from a pink to black.

Handwriting samples:

Handwriting pan
Handwriting zoom

Can see the pics. I tried your formula. Perfect. Perfect. Perfect. I tried with broad italic, medium and fine. And it is perfect. Thanks for your work on this project.

I Write Prescriptions and Medical documents all day, so my ink has to Archival.

I mix:

80cc Polar Blue (NOODLERS)
10cc Bullet proof Black (NOODLERS)

This gives a ver distinctive Blue Black that is now known to all my local Pharmacies, It is Blue enough so that no commercial ink matches it, and is black enough that it passes Muster on all Insurance and Govt Forms. It also does NOT reproduce on a color copier well.

Several Attempts to alter my Prescriptions have ended in jail time for the would be criminals. No commercial ink matchs mine and when they try to add to my existing script the attempt is beyond question.

Hans

Thanks for the recipe. I'll have to try the mix for my 'scripts. So far, I have used Lexington Gray and Upper Ganges Blue, and no calls from the pharmacy...yet.

Cheers,
C-C

This is an interesting discussion. For one, I do not write prescriptions for narcotics. I used to, but there is no reason for a cardiologist to do so; so I don't. Secondly I think the nib that you write with, such as a stub or flex nib gives you such a distinctive manuscript, that it is difficult to copy. I have gone with Noodler's Zhivago green with a little extra emerald green added to it to give it more "green-ness." I find the flow and color to be both pleasing to work with and beautiful to look at. But I don't use that color to foil criminals. Now, to the discussion of criminals copying scripts for narcotics. Seems like the greatest abuser is not some street thug, but actually the office staff. Two of my medical assistants in my office were convicted of calling in narcotic prescriptions using the physician identification. And they got away with it for years. Sadly, this is practice is not isolated to my office. Once the recipient gets one sucker physician to write the prescription, the refill abuse starts.

I have an old bottle of Rotring Brilliant Red and another old bottle of Pelikan Black. In the bottle the Rotring was such a pretty color, but not very comfortable to read. The Pelikan Black has a purplish undertone.

I call it "Eggplant".

3 parts Rotring Brilliant Red
1 part Pelikan Black
1 part water

(Added the water since the Pelikan was rather thick, not sure if that was the consistency when it was newly bought).

I wish I could post a sample, perhaps in a few days. On first writing, it comes out black. It dries pretty quickly on 80gsm office paper. When it dries, you can see the eggplant color. I suppose on a broader nib you can see the nice shading. I have actually only tried it with an M nib. On the whole it looks like a dark purplish brown, which I find I am liking a lot.

I was just playing around and found out this mix which I actualy like.

What color is yama-budo---and what pen was this written with? Both seem intriguing.

Pilot iroshizuku yama-budo (wild grape) is the ink and the pen was Braile dip pen. This ink seems to darken somewhat but stays nice and purple. I currently have one ED pen with Osmi F nib loaded with this to write a letter. Nice ink mix and one I might return to some time soon.

For reference, check out the colors here:

http://www.pilot.co.jp/products/pen/founta...zuku/index.html