I was hoping that we could have a list of pens, and compatible inks, so no one would reach a disaster of ink clogging the pen.and for having the best writing results.
could we, could we??
Thanks, : )
End of line.
Full Version: Pen-Ink Compatibility
Elo,
I was hoping that we could have a list of pens, and compatible inks, so no one would reach a disaster of ink clogging the pen.and for having the best writing results.
could we, could we??
Thanks, : )
End of line.
I was hoping that we could have a list of pens, and compatible inks, so no one would reach a disaster of ink clogging the pen.and for having the best writing results.
could we, could we??
Thanks, : )
End of line.
QUOTE(Ozzy @ Jan 22 2008, 08:26 AM) [snapback]487400[/snapback]
I was hoping that we could have a list of pens, and compatible inks, so no one would reach a disaster of ink clogging the pen.and for having the best writing results.
This is a really broad question. I have used sixteen or so different inks and I can only think of a couple that I wasn't happy with or that were "incompatible" with a particular pen. In terms of safe inks that could work in a broad array of pens I suggest Parker, Sheaffer, Waterman, Sailor, and Aurora. Other contributors will doubtless mention others I am leaving out.
I'd think Quink Washable Blue is about as safe an ink as you'll find, if your main criteria is resistance to clogging.
It has been suggested to me on more than one occasion by experts in repair and restoration that if I use Waterman or Diamine ink, I will have no problem with any clogging issues. Since I love the bright, highly saturated colors of some of the other inks, I use them in pens that are not vintage or do not have piston fillers. I find piston fillers very difficult to clean and converter fillers to be much easier to clean.
Pelikan 4001 ink I believe is universal.
I saw my grandfather and my father before me use it in a variety of pens, so did I in parker, Sheaffer, Lamy, Pelikans and a few off-brands.
I saw my grandfather and my father before me use it in a variety of pens, so did I in parker, Sheaffer, Lamy, Pelikans and a few off-brands.
No "calligraphy ink"
No India ink
No metallic ink (like with real gold flecks or whatever)
No "drawing ink"
Use ink that is made for fountain pens. All good fountain pen inks are good in all pens. If you want to be perfectly safe, rinse your pen carefully when you switch to a different colour or brand, so the two inks don't get a chance to mix.
If you have a pen with a clear section that you don't want stained, then don't use the pen. If you want to use such a pen anyway but still want to minimize staining, then use a watery weak-looking blue ink and don't let the pen dry out.
Often you will see people say that a certain ink doesn't work in a certain pen of theirs. That is an individual problem with the pen, and even if you have the same brand of pen you won't have the same problem.
The original intent, to make a sort of ink/pen compatibility chart, would not be helpful at all because the information would be pure opinion, and the chart would do nothing but start arguments.
It would help to have a list of ink brands that are not made for fountain pens (i.e. they are only for dip pens or technical pens or whatever). You could start that list with Speedball Black - that's an India ink that should never go in a fountain pen.
No India ink
No metallic ink (like with real gold flecks or whatever)
No "drawing ink"
Use ink that is made for fountain pens. All good fountain pen inks are good in all pens. If you want to be perfectly safe, rinse your pen carefully when you switch to a different colour or brand, so the two inks don't get a chance to mix.
If you have a pen with a clear section that you don't want stained, then don't use the pen. If you want to use such a pen anyway but still want to minimize staining, then use a watery weak-looking blue ink and don't let the pen dry out.
Often you will see people say that a certain ink doesn't work in a certain pen of theirs. That is an individual problem with the pen, and even if you have the same brand of pen you won't have the same problem.
The original intent, to make a sort of ink/pen compatibility chart, would not be helpful at all because the information would be pure opinion, and the chart would do nothing but start arguments.
It would help to have a list of ink brands that are not made for fountain pens (i.e. they are only for dip pens or technical pens or whatever). You could start that list with Speedball Black - that's an India ink that should never go in a fountain pen.
Elo all,
I'd like to thank you for all your replies, they've been helpful and illuminating.
I had originally asked the question because in fact "as David had mentioned" someone mentioned the problem of some ink with some pen, and I thought that maybe there are brands that don't work well with certain pens. For me, it kind of made sense. For every liquid, there is a flow-thickness. And it's possible, if not already true, that different brands/inks have difference as to their flow-thickness. Flow-thickness would matter regarding the anatomy of the pen.
If hypothetical brand Funny-Bunny has a fountain pen and an ink of its own. The ink probably has flow-thickness of 2, then the pathways of the ink inside the pen should be able to accomodate that flow-thickness. Flow-thickness has to do with liquid characteristics like Surface-Tension and Spreading over Surfaces. Like if we conisder Mercury and Water. Water has low surface tension and hence it spreads well over surfaces. Unlike Mercury which has very high surface tension, and doesn't spread over surfaces and instead curls up on itself forming little mercury spheres.
Ink doesn't differ. In fact also, it's a liquid that contains a dye, which I presume exist in particles that are not evenly distributed in the vehicle of the ink. Or else, we wouldn't have Shading in inks. Or maybe shading comes from amount of flow. I'd be glad if someone clears me out on this point.
So well, Thank you all again. Your replies have been helpful, also Ann Finley's reply to me through PM's.
May you all have a good day, or night (depending on your time zone) : P
End of line.
I'd like to thank you for all your replies, they've been helpful and illuminating.
I had originally asked the question because in fact "as David had mentioned" someone mentioned the problem of some ink with some pen, and I thought that maybe there are brands that don't work well with certain pens. For me, it kind of made sense. For every liquid, there is a flow-thickness. And it's possible, if not already true, that different brands/inks have difference as to their flow-thickness. Flow-thickness would matter regarding the anatomy of the pen.
If hypothetical brand Funny-Bunny has a fountain pen and an ink of its own. The ink probably has flow-thickness of 2, then the pathways of the ink inside the pen should be able to accomodate that flow-thickness. Flow-thickness has to do with liquid characteristics like Surface-Tension and Spreading over Surfaces. Like if we conisder Mercury and Water. Water has low surface tension and hence it spreads well over surfaces. Unlike Mercury which has very high surface tension, and doesn't spread over surfaces and instead curls up on itself forming little mercury spheres.
Ink doesn't differ. In fact also, it's a liquid that contains a dye, which I presume exist in particles that are not evenly distributed in the vehicle of the ink. Or else, we wouldn't have Shading in inks. Or maybe shading comes from amount of flow. I'd be glad if someone clears me out on this point.
So well, Thank you all again. Your replies have been helpful, also Ann Finley's reply to me through PM's.
May you all have a good day, or night (depending on your time zone) : P
End of line.
About shading - you're exactly right on your second choice - the flow onto the page is what counts. Shading mainly appears with those inks that have less dye in them. Where the pen moves slowly on the paper, for example the beginning or end of a stroke, it creates a little pool of ink and the colour looks darker. (Strongly-dyed inks create little pools in just the same way, but because the amount of dye hitting the paper is already high even when the pen is moving quickly, you can't see the effect.)
There are some inks so concentrated that they create another kind of shading, a sort of iridescent sheen of dye so thick that it doesn't soak into the paper. I would tend to water that ink down before using it.
There are some inks so concentrated that they create another kind of shading, a sort of iridescent sheen of dye so thick that it doesn't soak into the paper. I would tend to water that ink down before using it.
David,
I actually kind of felt that my second choice was more correct. I guess I was writing what I was thinking.
thanks.
I actually kind of felt that my second choice was more correct. I guess I was writing what I was thinking.
thanks.
QUOTE(Ozzy @ Jan 22 2008, 08:26 AM) [snapback]487400[/snapback]
Elo,
I was hoping that we could have a list of pens, and compatible inks, so no one would reach a disaster of ink clogging the pen.and for having the best writing results.
could we, could we??
Thanks, : )
End of line.
I was hoping that we could have a list of pens, and compatible inks, so no one would reach a disaster of ink clogging the pen.and for having the best writing results.
could we, could we??
Thanks, : )
End of line.
BillTheEditor had some wise words to share on this: link.
Haven't seen Bill on here for a while... I miss his posts.
Bill (a different one)
QUOTE(*david* @ Jan 24 2008, 05:45 PM) [snapback]489766[/snapback]
Often you will see people say that a certain ink doesn't work in a certain pen of theirs. That is an individual problem with the pen, and even if you have the same brand of pen you won't have the same problem.
This is exactly my experience!
I have lots of Pelikan 400s. Vintage, pre 97 or the recent model.
Every 400 is an individual and an ink that works with pen no 1 perfectly may not have the same result with pen no 2. It depends on the nib (great difference between vintage, pre 97 or modern), on the nib size (fine, medium, broad, oblique ...), the ink flow and whatever else may influence the performance of the pen.
I decided to see my pens as individuals and find the perfect ink for each of them.
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