Searching for the best pen-ink-paper experience, I've collected dozens of papers from around the world and tested them for look and feel. Different configurations of nib size, shape, smoothness, and wetness and different inks cause some rearrangement of the rankings. But I've found that the main brands of Japanese notepaper consistently rank at the top. So I thought it would be useful to give a collective review of them.
The first thing I look for in paper is line definition. By this, I mean that you get ink exactly where the nib touches paper, no more or less. A too-soft surface allows the line to spread and on a too-hard surface it contracts. On a paper with perfect definition, the edges of a line would have a clean arc, as when you look at printed type.
Here is a ranking of some representative papers from best to worst definition:
1. Apica
2. Kokuyo Campus Note
3. Masuya
4. Maruman Mnemosyne
5. Kokuyo Campus Report Pad (This is my minimum for good.)
6. Brunnen MK Papier, Clairefontaine, vintage National Brand
7. Tsubame
8. Tops quadrille pad, Miquelrius
9. Ampad Gold Fibre, Brunnen Block, Brunned Student, Brunnen Vivendi, Kokuyo Campus Airmail
10. Ordning & Reda
The other thing I look for is comfort, and this is harder to rank. I distinguish two factors, hardness (absorbancy) and roughness (bumpiness). A soft, smooth paper and a hard, rough paper may give the same level of friction (tooth) against the travel of the nib, yet feel quite different. You may think that a hard, smooth paper would be best, but take it too far and it can feel like walking on an icy sidewalk.
Here is a rough ranking of some papers from best to worst for comfort:
1. Kokuyo Campus Report Pad
2. Maruman Mnemosyne
3. Apica
4. Kokuyo Campus Note (This is my minimum for good, with an EF nib.)
5. Tsubame, Clairefontaine, Miquelrius, Masuya
6. Ampad Gold Fibre, Kokuyo Campus Airmail
7. Tops quadrille pad
8. Brunnen Block
9. MK Papier
10. vintage National Brand
11. Ordning & Reda
12. Brunnen Vivendi
13. Bunnen Student
14. Tops Docket Gold canary
15. Amalfi Amatruda
Now for some comments about specific brands.
Kokuyo is the giant of Japanese office supply. They sell a mind-boggling range of paper products but you should stick to their Campus line of stationery. All Campus Note notebooks use the same paper, but the various Campus Report pads use a variety of papers, all of which are harder and smoother than the Campus Note paper. If you want to get notebooks, note that the Spiral bound (Su- series) uses the same paper as the Twin Ring bound (Su-T series) and is cheaper. For a pad, try the Re-10 series rather than the Re-700.
http://www.kokuyo-st.co.jp/
Apica notebook paper is rougher and slightly harder than a Kokuyo Campus Report pad, with better definition. The paper may be white or cream, but it's all the same quality. However, the mini (A7) notebooks seem to have slightly inferior paper.
http://www.apica.co.jp/
Maruman is hard to generalize about, because they use various papers and they seem to change their product line often. One popular line is the Boston Note. The paper is not quite as nice as the Apica and I don't like it because of the heavy, dark lines. But you may like it if you like that dark look. The product I would advise anyone to try is the Mnemosyne. Its paper is highly unusual in that it combines properties of hard and soft. It is very smooth to write on and has good definition, yet it takes a darker line than than other slick papers. This would be perfect for use with lighter inks like Herbin. I would especially recommend Clairefontaine users to give the Mnemosyne a try.
http://www.e-maruman.co.jp/
Tsubame is a small company and uses the same paper in all its products. It is rougher and has less definition than the others but is still better than most paper from other countries. The surface is fairly hard and doesn't take a dark line. What is notable about the paper is its more sophisticated look. It has a watermarked laid design and the lines are a subdued gray.
http://www.tsubamenote.co.jp/
Masuya is made by a small outfit and I don't think you can get it outside Japan. Their paper comes in white or cream and feels like the Tsubame but has much better definition. It is worth mentioning because it has become something of a cult item with Japanese authors. They say that their paper is made specifically with fountain pens in mind, so of course I had to try it. Touching nib to paper, I didn't hear angels sing, but I could understand the appeal. It's for people who like a wet, medium or broad nib and some tactile feedback. Writing on Masuya is like driving a Mercedes; you feel the quality but you also feel the road.
http://www.tctv.ne.jp/masuya/