I'm home from visiting the folks now and am messing with the haul of old FPs I got while I was down there. Today I started tinkering with the Sheaffer Tuckaway vacuum-filler.

I don't think this pen is in such bad shape, really. Cosmetically it looks pretty good, and the parts move. It has way more green ink caked in it than I thought, tho---Oh, hey, a visulated section, cool! (I had no idea...). Right now I'm just flushing it with water (rest awhile, flush it more)...

Few questions:

First, is there a way to get the blind cap off? I'd like to be able to remove the shell of the barrel so I can see what's going on in the chamber better. It looks like maybe a ball at the end of the shaft goes into a spring-ring that holds it on, but I've pulled out on it with as much force as I care to without more info, and it hasn't popped off yet.

Second, filling it with water, I'm not sure it's drawing properly. Like, if I take it out of the water fully extended, it'll release about 4 drops on the downstroke (yes, I did that in confusion how a vacuum-filler worked... ), and I can only see the section when it's extended (can slide the barrel up then), but I never see the liquid in it. When I submerge the nib and pump it, it only produces a few small bubbles. It does give off swirls and swirls of old ink, tho, and when I put it on a paper towel to rest for awhile, it bled quite a bit.

Also, I'm not feeling the "click" at the end of the downstroke.

Before you go any further take a look at the following link from Richard Binder's site about the Sheaffer Vac Fill system
Anatomy of the Sheaffer Vac Fill

The Sheaffer Vac fill is not a pen that is simple to resore. Generally this is a job for an experienced restorer.
If you don't know what you are doing, you can really ruin the filling system and that is not a good thing
These pens are generally real nice writers and properly restored they hold a ton of ink...

I would recommend sending the pen to a reputable restorer like Richard Binder or Ron Zorn or Sherrell Tyree.

http://www.richardspens.com/?page=ref_txt.htm

Oh, yeah... It was getting a little green tint on the shaft... ('Course I've got about five of these pens I want to send off to Richard Binder or Ron Zorn or someone, it's just figuring out how to pay them... ^_~)

Sheaffer made about 3 different versions, maybe 4 of the blind cap, varying the way that the blind cap is attached. It sounds like yours is what I call the "woggle" blind cap. The later ones had a cap that would woggle around a bit. Inside the cap is a ring that is threaded in, and that needs a spanner to get it out. Under that, on the end of the rod is a knob that has to come off so that the ring comes off, and the piston rod can be pushed through.

These are not easy pens to repair. The Triumph nibs are a royal pain to remove (stronger language is warranted, but this is a family board). There's always something that can go wrong with a vacuum filler Sheaffer if you aren't careful.

One thing to check when you have them restored, is what method the repairer uses. The rubber plug in the end of the barrel is NOT the right way, IMO. It might work, but the mechanism can be very stiff. I did one that way about 15 years ago, decided that was not the way to go, and waited until a couple of years ago when we figured out the best way to start repairing them.

I personally do not like replacing the original filler with a replacement cartridge packing unit as a routine repair, as I like to keep the pen as original as possible. But, if the filler were damaged, I would consider using one.

It is a great way to repair a pen with striped threads on the packing unit. Unless, of course, it is one of the early ones with a reverse-threaded packing unit.

John

The alternative to the "full replacement" fountainbel cartridge - drilling out the old packing from the section side, install an O ring & glue an enclosure washer in the barrel - neither is an "original" repair.
Easy exchange of the rod seals & piston seal in 5 minutes is guaranteed using the cartridge, while re-newed drilling out from the section side is necessary with the alternative approach.
Installing the new "additional" cartridge NOTHING has the be changed : the worn packing assembly simply remains untouched in place and one simply adds the "additional" cartridge. This cartridge uses the identical sealing technology as the "full replacement" version and is in fact a technical sound alternative for the quick & dirty "add a rubber plug" approach. Small drawback is that looses 7mm ink volume, but practice shows this is neglectable given the large ink potential inherent to plunger fillers. One can read all about my cartridges on the Penpedia website
Francis

Edited for spelling faults

Well, dang! I tried the other two Sheaffer Vacuum-fillers I got, wanted to test them like Richard Binder says to do on his website. One won't draw at all, and the other seemed to be working like it was supposed to just in smaller-than-expected amount (there's the "click," finally!), until it suddenly threw a sick fit and started leaking black inky flush-water everywhere and gurgling out the back and stuff. Shoot... ;

Such a neat fine nib on that second one, too. I wrote with the inky flush-water before putting it on a towel to dry, and I'd say it's like an XXF or XXXF.

Necro-posting here...

I'm planning to send one of my Vac-Fils to Richard Binder soon, and the other one eventually same; both are too important to go experimenting on, IMO.

However, I would like to learn to fix them. I found David Nishimura's page about it here, but I understand there's some controversy about how this should be done. So, what do you all say is the way, and where do you get the replacement parts (if any) that you use?

You have yourself a pen from hell!! My vac has been nothing but trouble since I got it. Whatever you do don't even try and take it apart yourself unless you've worked on them before. Send it out! I learned the hard way.

Laura,
I've purchased my repair materials most lately from David. I've used his method to repack the filler unit with a single packing gasket and a closure washer. These can be difficult pens to repair - as I'm sure you've read. The folks that say that aren't kidding. If you have an open nib model it can be a relatively easy repair - relative to a triumph nib model with the plastic insert from hell. I would say the easiest way to repair the pens is to pull the filling unit and do the repair from the filler end - IF, and it's a big IF, you can pull the filler unit.

I've been wanting to try the Fountainbel method but haven't raised the cash to fund buying the tools and supplies.

One thing is certain, when you get one of these pens working correctly, they are great pens and they hold a ton of ink.

have fun!

So don't repair them unless you've already repaired them? ("You mean I can't join unless I'm already a member?") ^_~

Like I said, I'm not going to try it on a pen that's important to me, but when I'm cruising flea markets and run into Vac-Fils... Well, it might be nice to be on the hook of considering them, you know? As it is I just think "Add $40 to the price to cover sending it out..." I know I shouldn't set myself up to spend even more, but as it is there's no such thing as a good deal on one, y'know?

Sorry. I just thought I should say something. I recently wrecked the barrel of a ebonized pearl Balance trying to get it apart and having it melt. It's not a very fun thing to happen. I need to find some junk vac's so I can practice getting them apart and drilling out the packing. Maybe I'll have to try ebay and find some with out caps and nibs ect.

A question for everyone: who's the best person to send a Sheaffer vac to for repair.

The best people to send these to as far as I can say are Richard Binder, Ron Zorn, Sherell Tyree and possibly Joel Hamilton (although I am not sure on that last one). These are really a PITA, I have done about a dozen of them and really don't like to do them. I have had three of them basically disgorge the filler packing to the point where the only way to rescue it was to use a Fountainbiel convertor. These work great, but they are not original so some people refuse to use them. I don't see the issue if someone is not concerned with the originality of the pen. If it were a mint museum grade pen or even close, I would try to use the Nishimura technique.

There is not alot of room to work in these from the section end, and I have had 0% success with pulling the packing unit. Thus my reluctance to work on them.

Cheers,
Sean

preamble...
I am NEW to the hobby, not quite a year. My 'historical' perspective is limited. That stated

I've had several discussions regarding the 'fountainbel' cartridge system. Some with Francis
explaining the conformity to the original unit. IM(most) HO there is no
'change' from the original. Additionally, should you wish to remove the cartridge and employ another method it is relatively easy to accomplish.

I've had several pens restored by Franacis and can say I have been extremely pleased with his incredibly quick and efficient service.
Including sending them overseas the time has not been more than 3 weeks. Door to Door.
The pens do hold a large amount of ink and the minor nib smoothing performed makes these my favorite everyday writers.

Steve
A very satisfied client !

Found some bits on Penpedia:

Resealing Sheaffer Vac-Fils

Fountainbel Cartridge

What tools are needed to install the Fountainbel cartridge, BTW? (The "additional" ones sound interesting...) Is there somewhere I can see detailed instructions about installing them?

The only Vac-fill I've owned up to this point went to Richard Binder, and I'm glad it did, as its face made it into his blog as being one that needed a bit more persuading than usual. I'm sure I would have busted it. I'm not someone that shies away from taking things apart, especially pens (and I had no issues repairing my own Snorkel), but this was a nice pen, part of a set, and I wanted it done right. I should have it back within the next few days. Should I come across a beater, I may just dig into it and see what's up.

Another consideration for me was economics. I had a Vac-fill and a Parker Vacumatic that needed attention. The cost of the tools for the Vacumatic would have been higher than the cost of having Richard repair it, and probably the same was true of the Vac-fill. Not knowing how many of either of these I might ever have in my hands in the future, as much as I love repairing things, I opted to send them out. Of course, that argument goes out the window if you've got several on hand.

Again with me and the Vac-Fils...

Anyway, one of mine is currently on its way to Richard Binder. The other one is the one that belonged to my grandfather; I want to get it fixed up and give it to my brother.

However, Bro seemed to like the FP I gave him for X-mas, but he's not an FP enthusiast in his own right, I don't think. I mention this because on David Nishimura's page (which I linked previously), he said that his method benefitted from occasional silicone grease on the piston, but he thought that quite an acceptable caveat for a pen to be used by an enthusiast.

So the question it brings up: for the pen I want to give my brother, what would be the most maintenance-free and generally layman-friendly fix? (Planning to have it professionally done, don't worry.)