I recently picked up a lot of pens, a number of which can be classified as junkers, this being a big part of the reason why I wanted the lot. I figured the only way to learn things is by practising on junkers. Nib smoothing is, of course, one of these very things.

What I've discovered is this: I can improve the writing ability of most junk nibs that aren't bent out of shape. This is what I've done:

1) Align the tines as closely as possible.

2) Using 12000 micromesh, do a hard downstroke, while moving the pen upwards.

3) Very lightly pass in other directions 2-3x, maybe even with the micromesh wrapped around my finger.

4) Push one tine up and smooth the edge of the other, then do the reverse, 2-5x 1/4" on each tine.

The results seem to be pretty good so far. It doesn't work on all nibs, but I've taken some truly scratchy horrors and made them acceptable.

My conclusion is that a good bit of the scratchy effect comes from the 90 degree edge of the nib being too "sharp" and thus feeling like a knife dragging on paper. A hard downstroke allows the pliable micromesh to dull this a bit, as does smoothing the edges.

I find that it's amazingly how LITTLE smoothing is necessary (excepting one nib that had a pit on it's point, requiring significant removal of material). The entire process from start to finish probably has the nib travelling about 5" in TOTAL on the micromesh. I can't actually see the difference at 20x, but I sure can feel it.

Having gotten good results on the junkers, I tried to fix up some pens that I'd had around for a long time, but was unsatisfied with their "feel"... in most cases, the results have been remarkable.

Am I on to something? Am I doing things right? It sure feels like it... so in a way, I'm also sharing, not just asking.

One can not argue with results.

Personally, I do "figure 8's" on 12000 Micromesh paper (or 8000 first, followed by the 12000, if the nib is really scratchy) in a little pool of water on the paper. Aligning the tines is very important---glad you pointed that out
Congrats on the successful nib smoothing. It doesn't take a lot of effort---one just needs the right materials, the know-how and patience

Always always always get the tines in PERFECT alignment first. Then inspect for the reason it's not smooth (rough spots, bent tines -- see the first comment), flats, sharp corners, etc). Then and only then use the abrasive to remove the problem. Flat spot need the "corners" removed so they don't dig in, and the edges of the slit eased very slightly. Can't always do much with those short of a major regrind though.

Whatever you do, don't start with abrasives -- if the alignment is poor or the slit edges are sharp in the contact area, you will grind off the entire tipping and not cure the problem!

I'f fixed many a nib that was scratchy just by correcting the tip alignment. I have never managed to get a nib silky smooth with just abrasives.

Peter

This has also been my experience: I make a bit of a "religion" about getting the tines lined up... and that fixes the problem right from the get-go with the majority of pens. Some are still not too great, but I suspect that most of those weren't even when they were new.

I find that I'm most successful lightly adjusting the tines and looking through a loupe until such time as the result of pushing up either tine individually doesn't leave it higher up than the other one: especially when there's flex, they won't return to the same place if they're touching even a little... but making things "even" has really worked for me, so judging by what you're saying, I"m probably on the right track.

The hardest one I've succeeded in fixing is one that had pitting right on the tip of the nib. I ended up grinding a bit (fortunately there was a LOT tipping material on this HUGE nib) with 1000 grit and then finishing off with micromesh, and the results weren't too bad. The pen was a complete junker, so I didn't really care anyway, but in the end, it's actually reasonably decent, though still a bit toothy due to other pits (the tipping material seems not to have been good quality to start with).

I've also found that on some, someone else tried to grind them before, very aggressively, leading to damage that I can't repair. Actually reshaping is well beyond anything I can succeed at :-(. So those are staying in the junk pile :-(.

Thanks to everyone for their suggestions, I really appreciate it! I never thought I'd become any good at fixing things and never had the guts to try on a pen I like, but this bunch of junkers has really been hugely educational... plus now I have some junkers that write well :-).

Louis