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Maccymal
Hi,

I'm a newbie to this forum. Have a Pelikan 140. Works ok, except that ink leaks past the piston and then ooses out at the filler-knob when filling - result ink where it shouldn't be including fingers!

Obviously the pen is 50-odd years old and the cork gasket has probably deteriorated. How does one remove the filler mechanism in order to service the piston seal.

Had no problem with dismantling the nib-unit into its constituent parts - nib, feed and ring, just don't see how the filler comes part.

I've seen suggestions that this is a job for a specialist - notwithstanding, I like to know how to do it and can then make the judgement.

If it does need to go to a specialist - anybody know of any in Australia?

Thks.
SMG
These can be fragile pens. IIRC there is a black part between the barrel and the blind cap. This is the threaded part which screws into the butt end of the barrel. It is left hand threaded, so you have to turn it right to get it out. Heat it gently with a hiar dryer from the junction of the filler to the barrel about 1/2" towards the barrel while rotating the pen so as to spread the heat evenly. Grasp the filler (not the blind cap) and basically try to tighten it as you would a normal thread. This will unscrew it from the barrel.

Do not unscrew the blind cap mechanism while you have it apart, these can be a devil to get set correctly again. Replace the cork with one slightly (and I mean slightly) oversize to the barrel bore and make sure you grease it with Silicon grease (try a scuba dive shop) and reinstall it.

There is a pen repair person in Melbourne but I cannot recall who. I think that there is a link to them on Richard Binders pen links page.

Cheers,
Sean
DougS
The pelikan 140 has a friction fit filler. No reverse threads like the older 100. They can be somewhat daunting to remove, a lot of patience and soaking will be required. But the hardest task will be finding a usable piston. They are a synthetic (not cork anymore!) and for me at least, impossible to locate new. I have contacted several pro repairers who refused to sell me the part! I guess you could make one.

Anyway, if the seal is only leaking very slightly I've had some luck once with a small amount if silicone grease dabbed near the piston.

Best of luck --Doug
Maccymal
QUOTE(DougS @ Nov 18 2007, 02:52 AM) [snapback]421543[/snapback]
The pelikan 140 has a friction fit filler. No reverse threads like the older 100. They can be somewhat daunting to remove, a lot of patience and soaking will be required. But the hardest task will be finding a usable piston. They are a synthetic (not cork anymore!) and for me at least, impossible to locate new. I have contacted several pro repairers who refused to sell me the part! I guess you could make one.

Anyway, if the seal is only leaking very slightly I've had some luck once with a small amount if silicone grease dabbed near the piston.

Best of luck --Doug


Gentlemen,

Many thanks for your words of wisdom. I'll give it a go and see if I can persuade the recalcitrant parts to separate. The Si grease on the piston sounds like a good first step - anybody with any experience of how long this will last?

In terms of replacing the cork seal / piston, has anyone any experience of using "o-rings" in place of cork?

Thks again,

Maccymal.
Rick Propas
Just to clarify a bit, Doug's directions are spot on. The problem is getting seals. There is someone in Germany making replacements, but that person does not want to be known and has provided them to only a few people, his decision, not ours. They are also expensive and limited in availability.

The silicone paste trick may or may not work, for a time. Any attempt to use o-rings over the leaking seal is likely to split or distort the barrel.

Peter Ford in Melbourne knows Pelikans well, but I have no idea if he is taking repairs, contact him.

Hope this helps.
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