A few more beginner questions, if you'll all indulge me...

Sac sizes: I just replaced the sac on a Sheaffer desk pen, and the sac I put in looks like it's a couple of sizes smaller than the one I took out; I decided to err on the side of not having the sac right up against the barrel wall (I used a 16, it looks like an 18 or 20 was in there before, unless it expanded as it hardened). The nipple on this one is pretty big; I had to stretch the end of the sac quite a bit to get it over. Is this normal?

Using knock-out blocks (removing nib and feed): Do most people use a hollow tube as a knock-out rod? I haven't removed any feed yet, but it seems that usually there's some fragile-looking part in the center of the back of the feed (exactly what varies from pen to pen) and I'd worry about damaging it if you tap it directly with a solid rod.

Removing sections: I have one Sheaffer that I cannot get apart; I'll try again with proper tools once I have decent section pliers (it wouldn't surprise me if that's the difference), but this one almost looks like the section and the barrel is one piece. If not, they're really close together; using a 10x loupe I can see what might... or might not... be a seam. Were any Sheaffer lever-fillers made as one piece? Seems unlikely I expect...

Assuming not, it may be glued together -- I've heard water and acetone proposed as solvents for superglue; other options? I'm a little leery of using acetone (though it might not matter if I end up breaking the pen anyway...).

Here's a picture of the Sheaffer:

I'd advice against using acetone or water on that pen. In my exerience water can create discolorations on the section of that kind of pen. Acetone, I think, is way too aggressive for the material you're working with. I hope that later on today some of the real guru's can give you some solid advice on how to remove the section...

Hi Chud,

It is normal to have to stretch a sac slightly to get it over the nipple, it is always better to have a tight fit than a just about hanging on sloppy fit.

I have a selection of drifts to use with a knockout block, some hollow to accomodate those feeds with breather tube tht just won't come out whether by design, fault or failure. If you do have to use a hollow drift you need to make sure that the walls are as thick as they can be but still allow clearance otherwise you can end up with a nice circular dint in the back of the feed. As long as the face of the drift in contact with the feed is flat and covers as much of the surface area as possible you will rarely find a problem but as ever you need to treat each case individually and make a decision.

As far as i know Sheaffer didn't make any lever fillers with all in one barrel and section, although they are not my normal area of tinkering and I cannot be certain, one of the Sheaffer specialists or repair pros will know for sure. A little heat, carefully applied, can do wonders on releasing tight barrel/section fits and tends to be far more succesful and safer than a soak it and see approach, it is more likely to be shellac or just a damned good fit holding it in place, either of which will respond to heat, neither of which is affected by water, other than perhaps as a lubricant, water might help if it is ink crud binding the bits tightly together. Acetone will sort the problem by dissolving or at least softening and likely discolouring or clouding the plastic, not a good move besides actetone is one of the chemicals that are or can be used to weld cracks in plastics.


Best of luck with the Sheaffer, Cheers, John

Thanks - in this case "slightly" means stretched to about twice its relaxed diameter, I'd estimate, though judging by feel that still seems well enough within the elasticity limits of the sac material, so worst case is probably just that it holds less ink than it might otherwise.

Already tried some heat on the Sheaffer, but maybe I'm being too conservative... I'll keep playing with it and see.

Thanks!