I thiought I'd give nib grinding a try. I have some not-so-expensive pens whose nibs clearly show what I think is called the "baby bottom" effect: the tip of each tine is quite rounded so that the center between them does not readily touch the paper when one writes ... leading to skipping. I have picked up the supplies to start learning something of this interesting art. Now do I want to conceive of fixing the "baby bottom" effect (I hope I'm using the word in the right way) by creating a flat foot on the nib by rubbing the nib on the sandpaper (I'm starting with 2500 grit) until a flat spot appears on the nib ... and then smoothing the edges from there? Or should I be thinking of drawing the pen from a horizonal-ish position with the nib on the paper up to a vertical position with respect to the paper ... so as to grind the whole under side of the nib on its vertical axis ... then smothing out the edges of that? I hope this makes sense. I have read the papers noted on the Repair Reference Information page of this Repair Q&A forum, but I see nothing about specifically what strokes to execute, and in what order in order, to correct for the center of the space between the tines not touching the paper due to the roundedness of each tine. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

Gary

It is hard not to want to do your nibs - I have done a few and come up with a few conclusions.
Remove as less material as possible - means working with 8000 and above 12000 grade papers, unless you are reshaping the nib - which you are not.
For jus rough nibs - the brown paper bag matrial works just fine - and it is much cheaper than sandpaper (called micromesh for some strange reason)
About the strokes - the best strokes are to use the pen as you would be writing and draw a series of 8s or 0s, make sure you hold the pen as you would hold it during normal writing - what you are trying to do (smooth it out) should not take much fancy nib work - good luck and keep us posted.
Now for some more advanced and riskier methods - If you are creating a stub or oblique - I find the use of a dremel type tool essential - I just do not have the dexterity or expereince to do it manually by rubbing on snadpaper (each stroke is apt to be at a differnt angle). After the rough cuts are made - then off too 6000 grade and above paper.
One more final and personal choice thought - I grind with the ink in them pens - acts as good lubricant - gives instant resutls, test on paper nearby. It does kill the papers faster - but heck rather that than the nib.

Your ink flow may need to be adjusted, possibly a bit of nib flossing with brass shim stock will cure the skipping. The baby bottom shape(or adult bottom, for that matter) is desirable if it's not excessive. If you eliminate it, you end up mith two sharp edges at the center of the business end of the nib (at the bottom of the slit) Depending on how much flex you have and how much pressure you apply, this could make the nib scratchy. In other words, the contact area of each tine should have rounded edges on ALL sides, including the slit side.
I would check with the Nibmeisters before grinding. Good luck.