Pen is made of cast silver clip and band, ebonite finials, African Blackwood Cap, Bubinga Sapwood Body, a London Stanley Compass, and a Bexley two tone medium nib. Separate compartment in the back of the pen to carry a spare cartridge.

Comments welcome.

Dan

Awesome work, Dan!

I didn't realize that you had a compartment for a spare cartridge.

Very creative work.

It looks like it's ready for Prime Time, Dan. The whole thing screams quality. Good luck in marketing them. Not bad for a button pusher.

You hit that one out of the park Dan. Outstanding to say the least!

I liked it the first time I saw and more so now.
Not a fan of CNC work(mass produduced or lasered) but seeing just one is nice.

oh wow, cool pen.....

Two questions:
1) Is this for sale, or one like it?
2) How much?????
Donnie

It's not mass produced or lasered.

Dan
This is a very nice piece of work. You are getting very good at using your tools and skills. The entire piece is incrediably well done.

My work has kept me away from the shop for a while but seeing your pen has inspired me to get back into the shop.

Again, great work and thanks for the inspiration.

Regards
Dan Symonds

Is it done with a CNC and computer(just like tose who mass produce identical item for sale?)

Eagle:

It is done with tools. Any machine used assist in a crafting a particular part of the pen is still just a tool. Because one particular tool used a computer attached to it to achieve a part of the process does not make it "mass produced". The key is that only bits and pieces of the project are produced by machine. If a cnc was used to help with the crafting of this fine piece of work, it was only a small part of the total piece. The artisenship that went into the pulling togather and finishing of the entire design is what matters.

I truely respect and appreciate your talent with pencraft. You use your tools very well and produce some beautiful pens. Mr Furleno has achieved a equally fine level of skill using all the tools at his disposal and also produces some beautiful pens. He will never be able to produce another "exactly the same" simply becaused he used a CNC to assist with a small part of the project. The end result --- a one off quality hand crafted beautiful pen using the tools at the craftsmans disposal.


No flame intended or desired on my part toward you. I just felt like respectfully expressing an opposing view.

Thanks
Dan Symonds

Sorry Dan, I just realized I spelled your name wrong.

Dan

We agree it is a beautiful pen.
I was impressed so much by it the first time I Saw it I tool the trouble to write dfurlano a personal e-mail telling him so.
I dissagree with your assessment of the use of a CNC (computer programmed tool) to make it.
Because of the program used to guide the tool an infantesimal number of these pens could be made all the same with the only differnce being the slight appearance of materials not where they are located on the design.
After all is that why a CNC was invented?
To make exact duplicates?

Well, we don't agree and that's ok.
This is not the forum to continue this discussion.
I'm really sorry I didn't to make the DC show.
We could have sat in Lou's house and had a rousing discussion on this topic.
I look forward to that day.

Cheers
Dan

There is an interesting quote in this link by a man who could use a CNC in his creations if he wanted to.
I use it in my sig line on other sites.
rather than post the signature I will just post the link.
You will know the remark I am referring to.
Remember I was not the originator.
CNC?

I think you probably mean 'infinite' here, yes? 'Infinitesimal' means unmeasurably small.

Ray

Thanks for noting that.
I certainly do mean an unmeasurable LARGE amount.(countless as in stamped out like the major mfgrs do each the same)
But it still is a beautifull pen as I stated in my first post.

I came here to post my pen. You came here with a different agenda.

Well, whether you can make 1 or 100 of them matters not a jot to me. It's a beautiful looking pen and I'd be proud if I could make something half as good. It's about the nicest piece I've seen in the forum.

Ray

Since I have posted the process for making components on many different sites I thought I would include some here. I do not mind sharing information on how I make pens mostly because the process is so complex most will not try to replicate. Unlike something simple like using a table saw and some glue. BTW: I made my mini mill into a CNC although it would never be used for production it does work for my uses.


Thought I would post how I am starting to manage a pen project in Microsoft OneNote which is a notes management software tool.

Here is the main page notice the tabs across the top:



From the main page I created an index of all the components I wanted to document. This one is the compass.



Next you can go to the compass main page folder now notice the tabs on the right side. These are the steps in the process. I will show each one:



Now into the first tab marked set-up:



Next is the raw material. I can put a link to the website and I saved the page as a PDF encase the page ever changes.



Next is the DXF drawing file. I posted a photo and attached the actual file into the page:



G-code is the same style with a picture and the file:



Next is the tool I used to make the cut again I pasted the website and this time I did a screen capture of the tool.



Next I described how I sharpened the tool. This page is long with many pictures and a step by step method.



Next is the machine set-up again this is fairly long but I only captured a page to show it here:



This is the bending process:



And finally the enameling process:




Dan.

This is how I make the cap for the compass. Another process that falls off the "CNC".

Raw piece of ebonite



I start by drilling a .25 hole through the piece so that I can mount it on a pen mandrel.



Here I am mill off the top to insure it is flat and this will be my new Z zero.




Here is where I mill the .5 diameter so the cap fits snugly over the brass tube. It is .4 deep so there is room for the tube and the compass. The compass is captured inside the cap by a lip around the top (I'll show that later).




Here are the body, silver ring and cap on the rod before pushing it all together. I use ebonite bushings I made because I like them long and I use hardware store brass tubes.



Everything sandwiched together. Also I used a dial indicator to make sure the body was turning true.



Finished turning everything together.




I take the cap off the mandrel and put it back in the mill to flush cut the top to the proper dimension. I leave about a 0.03" lip that will hold the compass inside the cap.




I then cut out the center hole for the compass face to show through.




I use a drill chuck with a 1/2 hardened dowel to finish the cap.




I then round the edge with a skew and sand the cap.




After a little polishing the cap is complete.




This is a picture of the new cap on the left which captures the compass from the inside and the old cap where I just made a pocket and placed the compass in from the top. The new left design looks much more finished.

Dan
Thanks for sharing your process. Very interesting. I thought you had purchased a small compass and embedded it into the cap. Very creative work. Did you use a commercial needle and pin or did you make those also.
Dan

Dan,

I do purchase the actual compass. The part you see above is the curved badge on the front face of the pen. For this pen I posted I did not enamel the face.

Dan

This was the first prototype:










This was the second prototype:







Dan

Dan,
The prototype looks good with the exception of the large stepdown from the pen barrel to the thread and grip section. The final version is much better in that regard. It's just a personal thing I guess but I have never cared much for that "European" style of stepdown. It's just to abrupt for my taste.

How did you put the dots in. Is it metal rod or a colored filler material? The Gisi's use the silver rod technique and this looks a lot like that.

What did you make the proto clip out of? I'm struggling a bit with clip material right now.

Dan S.

The first material was low brass because it was cheap and easy to machine and enamel. The second material was sterling silver sheet that I cut out and engraved. Sheet bends nice if you go slow. To fast and you will crack it - but nice and easy and it will deform into any shape.

As for the dots I just laid it on the CNC and the next morning it was all done!

Or

There are 118 1/16" holes that I took 14 gauge wire and glued in, snipped off, filed down, then sanded. There is no brass tube in the the pen body. And the holes are drilled just shy of going into the center hole. So I have to be very careful not to penetrate and push the wire into the center or it will interfere with the internal components. This is the most unpleasant part of this pen.



Dan

Dan

I had a chance to see that pen in DC. It is really a work of art and craftmanship. Your design and how you used all of your tools at hand is amazing.

Alan

Dan this pen is absolutely exquisite! Fit and finish appear to be superb, and the overall design just blows me away.

Larry:
I just read your tag line and fell out of my chair laughing.

Dan:
Are you using full hard silver sheet? I have been using a softer silver then trying to get the temper to come up through heating. It's hit or miss and sometimes end up with a softer clip that won't hold it's shape under use.

I have been working on a thread milling technique so that the pen threads can be milled directly into the wood. It's working really well and quite strong. I'll post some pics of a couple of pens later today and possibly some pic's of my Rube Goldburg thread milling machine.

Dan S.

I use half hard sheet and hardened it through heating and steel shot tumbling. I also do thread milling using a single tooth cutter. I thread both the ebonite and silver that way. What is nice is that you can really dial in the threads.

Dan

Stuff the politics - is the pen for sale, or another but with an ebony body as well, without the pins, just curios?