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The Fountain Pen Network > General Pen Topics > Repair Q&A
irish_monk
I have an m200 that is a little dry. It stalls out when writing quickly (notes) or on big curvey letters (B's).
Other thatn not writing fast or making big curvey letters smile.gif is there a safe and effective wayto increase the flow without too great of a risk of damage? I don't want to send it out.
NeoTiger
First advice would be to rinse the pen out well, maybe rinse some water with detergeant, then rinse with clear water again. This should get rid of oils and other things that might be slowing the flow.

If this doesn't help, you can physically increase the flow by spreading the tines of the nib a little bit. The best way to do this is to run some plastic film along the slit.
irish_monk
Thanksfor the quick reply. I just did a little checking in the archive and got a few other tips as well. I did a little work and it seems better. I'll try it for a few days and see if it needs anything else.
bandityo
what do you mean ..plastic film... what kind and how thick?

david
bgray
Rather than plastic film, I've found that two other options work fine.

Feeler guages from an automotive store work fine. Make sure to get a pair that starts with shims as thin as .002".

Also, machinery supply houses can supply brass shim stock. This is just as well.

If you search around, Richard Binder has an article pinned somewhere here on the forum that describes this process well.
TMLee
Floss the nib tines with brass shims.
bandityo
good place to find brass shims?

david
dwmatteson
Brass shims are readily available at hobby stores, particularly those that are heavy on the model railroad paraphernalia.

Richard Binder's post can be found in the reference information pinned at the top of the Repair Q&A section.

Here's a direct link to the post: linky

Don
tuxedobay
QUOTE(bandityo @ Aug 5 2007, 07:12 AM) [snapback]344708[/snapback]
good place to find brass shims?

david


Tooling supply houses for the machine shop industry.

Ken
NeoTiger
When I said plastic film, I basically meant any bit of plastic that is thin enough to fit between the tines but hard enough that it won't bend around. I've used things like plastic from some clear plastic bags (like the plastic bag of a DVD case).
bgray
Brass shim stock....

http://www.smithy.com/accessories.php?acid...amp;code=38-001

There's plenty of other places, but this where I bought mine.
Maja
QUOTE(bgray @ Aug 5 2007, 06:13 AM) [snapback]344669[/snapback]
Rather than plastic film, I've found that two other options work fine.

Feeler guages from an automotive store work fine. Make sure to get a pair that starts with shims as thin as .002".

Also, machinery supply houses can supply brass shim stock. This is just as well.

If you search around, Richard Binder has an article pinned somewhere here on the forum that describes this process well.

Howdy! Correct me if I'm wrong.... but aren't the brass shims being used merely as *gauges* in Richard's post...vs. actual tools to spread the tines apart?
kissing
My advice is, before you try any of these ideas that involve physically changing the nib - Try a different ink!
A different ink with different flow properties can make all the difference you need ohmy.gif biggrin.gif It really depends on the pen, but I have found that Parker Quink, Waterman inks and Noodlers Manuscript Brown have good flow properties for pens that I need to write rapidly. There are probably many other options out there. I have read many times that Private Reserve Tanzanite has rapid flow too.

bgray
QUOTE(Maja @ Aug 6 2007, 01:36 AM) [snapback]345063[/snapback]
QUOTE(bgray @ Aug 5 2007, 06:13 AM) [snapback]344669[/snapback]
Rather than plastic film, I've found that two other options work fine.

Feeler guages from an automotive store work fine. Make sure to get a pair that starts with shims as thin as .002".

Also, machinery supply houses can supply brass shim stock. This is just as well.

If you search around, Richard Binder has an article pinned somewhere here on the forum that describes this process well.

Howdy! Correct me if I'm wrong.... but aren't the brass shims being used merely as *gauges* in Richard's post...vs. actual tools to spread the tines apart?


Well, I've done both. If I'm reading Richard's post correctly, he recommends pressing down on the nib with your finger on top to get the tines to spread.

I've done this, and then then I've also used feeler guages to place in between then tines with gradually thicker guages. I've never gone above .007". I also make sure to insert the shims from the top of the nib to keep from damaging the bottom writing surface.

I think that either way is fine, but maybe Richard can chime in on my method of using thicker shims to separate the tines.
HDoug
QUOTE(kissing @ Aug 5 2007, 08:51 PM) [snapback]345173[/snapback]
My advice is, before you try any of these ideas that involve physically changing the nib - Try a different ink!
A different ink with different flow properties can make all the difference you need ohmy.gif biggrin.gif It really depends on the pen, but I have found that Parker Quink, Waterman inks and Noodlers Manuscript Brown have good flow properties for pens that I need to write rapidly. There are probably many other options out there. I have read many times that Private Reserve Tanzanite has rapid flow too.


This makes sense. Why mess with the tines if you don't have to? Noodler's Gulf Stream is a nice, bulletproof (waterproof) very free flowing blue. I use it in my tiniest nibs...

Doug
TMLee
QUOTE(bgray @ Aug 6 2007, 10:56 PM) [snapback]345591[/snapback]
Well, I've done both. If I'm reading Richard's post correctly, he recommends pressing down on the nib with your finger on top to get the tines to spread.

I've done this, and then then I've also used feeler guages to place in between then tines with gradually thicker guages. I've never gone above .007". I also make sure to insert the shims from the top of the nib to keep from damaging the bottom writing surface.

I think that either way is fine, but maybe Richard can chime in on my method of using thicker shims to separate the tines.



Careful .... !

Kissing and Doug is right... flush, rinse etc first ... you are now 'messing' with the tines ...

May be wise to backtrack to initial methods first.


AJP
I have to agree with the others messing with tines is very delicate work. The problem could also be the nib is too close to the feed restricting proper flow.

Not to pile on more bad news but if I recall correctly Pelikan has had some problems with nibs that were specifically related to skipping and flow. Here is an article from pentrace that describes the problem: Pelikan Nib Problem.

Edit: Scroll down the article it is the second rx.

Not sure this is the problem you are having but thought it might be worth a read or atleast worth mentioning.

Good luck!
irish_monk
I appreciate all the help. I of course tried all the other advice previously offered, flushing, different ink. I only posted because thos things did not work. I seperated the tines just a bit and presto...great flow and a smooth nib. I found the links suggested very informative. I doubt I'd go messing about with a rare or expensive pen but since I don't have many of those that is no biggie. A twenty dollar nib? No one wants to have to spend cash to replace a learning experience but better that than hundreds. Like I said it worked just great and I'm pleased as Punch.
kissing
Glad to hear that you were successful biggrin.gif

I love it when a DIY project on pens works!
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