Today at the flea market I found a green marbled Moore Junior (I actually saw this two weeks ago, but was advised by the folks here that I was wise to pass on it at $14; today I got it for $8), and a red plastic barrel, dark gold metal cap Sheaffer Fineline (imprinted "Made in the USA by the Fineline Division WA Sheaffer Pen Co."). Both had petrified ink sacs, which I've since removed. (I haven't found these pens listed on the Pen Sac website for sizes.) I've got some questions for each of them:

1) the Moore-- What size is the correct ink sac? Also, the inner cap came out quite easily when I was cleaning out the cap with a Q-tip (you can see it in the photo). Is it just a friction fit, or should an adhesive be used?

2) the Sheaffer-- What size is the correct ink sac? Also, is there a recommended adhesive for glueing plastic? Part of the barrel at the threads is splitting off, like a ring. It's still attached, and I'm sure the correct adhesive will solve the problem. In other (non-pen) contexts, I've found that cyanoacrylate glue doesn't always work on plastics, but a product called Plastic Surgery often does. I thought it best to ask before I went ahead with this, though.

Thanks for the help!

Update: The section nipple on the Moore looked to be nearly the same size as an Esterbrook, so I installed one of my spare Estie ink sacs. Now I'm seeing how long I can wait before I try it. The nib seems really flexy, so I'm expecting interesting things.

The inner cap, however, if it was a friction fit, is no longer. It's too loose and will drop out with a slight tap. I'm thinking of taking a turn of teflon tape around it to try and take up the slack, not knowing what adhesive should be used (although I'd guess the same shellac I used on the ink sac might work).

On the Sheaffer, I'm surprised at the dearth of information available on this model. Doing a Google search turns up lots of references to Fineline BPs, MPs, and such, but not many FPs, and most of those seem to be cartridge fillers, not levers. I did find a listing for replacement nibs, which clued me in that the nib might screw out, like an Esterbrook, and it does indeed (but are not interchangeable with Esterbrook nibs).

The section is a fairly loose fit in the barrel, so I think I may use some shellac to hold it in place, which should also do to hold the threads in place that are trying to break off. The section nipple seems slightly smaller than the Moore, but the other spare Estie sac I have may be a decent fit for it.

Oh boy, you are in for some fun with the snorkel - seriously, they are fun to work on - at least I think so. I suggest a visit to Richard Binder's site: Richardspens.com Then look up Anatomy of a Fountain Pen III: Sheaffer's Snorkel. It's in the Reference Info section. This, along with the Pen Profile on the Snorkel will give you most all you need to work on the pen. If you need more help, don't hesitate to ask. The snork can be tricky in spots, but it's not hard to work on.

Have fun.

Thanks for pointing me in that direction. It probably would have been the first place I checked anyway, but it's great info. It does look like a fun pen to work on. The operation seems straightforward enough, if complex, and I have seen how I can get to the point gasket, but haven't yet figured out how to access the O-ring or the ink sac. I have more research to do, but have to run now. If I can't figure it out, I'll ask. Thanks!