Seeing Ron Z's post below (and having just completed my first cigar box storage unit) gave me the itch to learn more about the inner workings of FPs. Beyond filling and cleaning and the names of the basic parts, I know almost nothing.

I'm not one to naturally rip stuff apart because I'm affraid to ruin it. But it seems to me that the inner workings of a FP can't be too complex, at least when compared to a machine that can kill you if you screw up.

I'd like to take a pen apart and get familar with the insides. I'm not about to do this with anything I own right now; they're too nice. Please suggest a cheapie that I can buy and dissect in order to get familiar. Preferrably something that comes apart without specialized tools and that's characteristic of your average pen.

Alright...I realize I may need some tools. What should I start with and expect to spend?
(I have almost every common hand tool but nothing pen-specific).

Also appreciate a point toward a good on-line primer of FP fixology.

Thanks
Bob

Before I tell you anything... there is a disclaimer that must be gone through...

Be Warned that you are about to travel a long slippery slope that is virtually impossible to return from.
Fortunately the tools and goodies are relatively inexpensive for the majority of the pens you are most likely to play with, especially at the beginning...
It is only after you get into the easy stuff that special tools come into play and can be a bit more expensive, i.e. Parker Vac wrench =$40.

With that out of the way... I will say there is a real satisfaction in bringing a non-working pen back to life, even third tier practice pens can become real nice writers as you learn to work on them...
I would suggest you look for inexpensive lever fill pens to play with at first.
If you can get a couple of Esterbrooks for a good price you will not only have a great pen to work on, but a great writer when you are done.
I would suggest purchasing Dubiel's book, generally called DA BOOK. A good basic book on pen repair, unfortunately some of the material and techniques are out of date and no longer used by experienced restorers, but the basic material is worth reading.
Tools and supplies. I could not recommend Tryphon more... great service, selection and delivery... you will be happy with them.
I really love the Bionic Wrench they sell for taking sections off bodies...

There are some Esterbrooks on the Marketplace right now.

http://www.fountainpennetwork.com/forum/in...showtopic=28350

I'm someone that's only a couple of steps ahead of you, although I've never been someone to shy away from tearing something apart. I bought an Alfa Romeo and rebuilt the engine without ever having touched a foreign car before! All you need is confidence, the right tools, and the right information (and sometimes, enough knowledge to know what you should leave to an expert; certain tasks on my Alfa engine were given to a good machine shop).

My first FP to tear apart was an Esterbrook, as has been suggested. They're easy, no special tools needed. The nib unscrews, and the section will come out with some coaxing and perhaps some soaking in water. I needed to replace a broken J-bar (that and the lever are the only real moving parts). No problem, got one from Wood Bin. Sacs are easy, too (now bitten by the bug, I've gotten several Esties, most of which needed new sacs). Esties are fun. (I'm tempted to fill each of mine with ink that matches the barrel color.)

Also check your local thrift shops, you never know what you'll find there. Sometimes they have a bin full of pens and pencils. My second FP to work on was my Pelikan 120, found at a thrift shop for a quarter. It had a bent nib and dried ink inside. The piston didn't turn easily. I figured out how to get the piston out, got the nib out and straightened it (enough to write anyway; it could use a little more work), gave it all a good cleaning, and reassembled it. It's now the pen I usually carry with me. I found a Waterman CF at a used furniture store. It's a pain, because the cartridges aren't made anymore, but this one had an empty cartridge in it, so it could be filled. It writes much too dry and doesn't start well, so this pen might teach me something about adjusting the nib. It cost me all of two dollars. I might kick myself a time or two, but I wouldn't be broken-hearted if I messed up trying to fix it.

Thanks everyone. I went over to the marketplace and will have a go at an Estie

Bob

I've been doing most all my own repairs since 2001. I started with a black Estie J.

Here's what I've learned (in part - some repeat info from above. Not to be taken as the gospel, but simply what I've learned and what works for me.):

1. Get Da Book - Griz is correct on all counts.
2. Don't get in a hurry - patience, patience, patience.
3. Old plastic can be brittle - always assume it is.
4. Plastic, especially the old celluloid stuff, doesn't like too much heat - open flame, while recommended by some, is unnecessary and hazardous - to you and your pens.
5. You can build many of your tools or modify some you have. Example: grind the teeth off a cheap pair of pliers and put soft plastic tubing over the jaws to make section pliers.
6. Buy a good quality, infinitely adjustable heat gun - Craftsman Industrial is what I use. If it won't keep the temperature under 140 degrees f., you don't want it. Most every gun will go much higher, but you rarely need it.
7. Get a good thermometer to check your heat gun temp. They're not expensive and can save you a lot of trouble.
8. Get a decent magnifying glass and loupe - again, doesn't have to be expensive.
9. Read as much as you can about particular repairs and ask about pens you don't understand or know about. For example - some pens have threaded sections - some with reverse threads - some with pins - asking saves trouble.
10. If a little heat is good, a lot of heat can be a disaster - remember the patience from above? Longer at lower temps is almost always better than shorter times at higher temps.
11. Shellac softens at around 140 degrees F.; I set my gun's temp to ~145 to heat parts that might be shellac'd.
12. I always heat the barrel before removing the section (unless it's falling out in my hand) and replacing the section. Learned this the hard way - destroyed a perfectly good Skyline barrel putting the section back in - ahhhhhhh.
13. If I remember correctly, many plastics get pretty goofy over 170 degrees - they can warp, shrink, ignite, discolor, etc.
14. Did I mention patience? If you're having trouble with a pen, put it down and come back to it tomorrow.

Have fun!