Hello,

I read what I can find about nib smoothing here on the Fountain Pen Network (FPN). Sanding, buffing and making circles on paper bags, will eventually have the desired effect of smoothing a nib but it removes material from the bottom surface on nib and does not focus a solution on the cause of the problem. In most of my pens as far as I can tell, it's the inside tine edge that is the CAUSE of the "scratchiness". I just got a Bexley stub nib that could bring up metal shavings on a shiny aluminum plate. That can't be good! As long as the shape of the nib foot is they way you want, why remove material from the bottom of the nib that is already smooth? Why aren't methods discussed in the FPN that focus on the specific edge that is the cause of a lot of nib problems. How about placing thin films that are 0.001" or less in between the nib tines and directing the grit to the sharp edge of the nib? Any thoughts? Am I off on the wrong tack?

How can you put the correct radius on this inside edge so ink will feed and paper won't catch without affecting the whole nib??????

Dave

This is why it's good to read the manufacturers repair manuals (and there are reproductions out there) or Frank Dubiels book. You find information there that you won't find on the pen boards.

The books say that you should work the edges or corners where the paper is likely to snag. That would include the insides of the tines. BUT, you have to be very careful in doing this because if you go too far on the inside, you end up with baby bottom, which means that the curve of the inside edge is deep enough, and the gap there wide enough that surface tension holds the ink up off of the paper. If you hesitate in writing, or lift the pen from the paper, the ink will not make contact with the paper again, and therefore will now be drawn down onto the paper unless you press hard.

If you are going to work the inside edge, gently use 12000 micromesh, or even better yet, the pink or white smoothing film. All that you want to do is to remove the burr, or sharp edge. You're not going make it round it out like you do the outside edges.

Thanks, this was a question that I had too.

What would you say to using micromesh strips to increase the flow of a pen like a Rotring lissabon or a Lamy safari, for which trying to spread the tines like Mottishaw recommended in his article on nib adjustments is a potentially fingernail breaking exercise?

Stephen

Hi,

I've seen many ruined nibs from misguided attempts at smoothening. Many people do it in such a way as to create a flat spot with very sharp edges.

What you want to do is to round the offending edge slightly so that it does not snag. Don't round it too much or you will get a skipping problem.

I don't know if I could provide an illustration off the bat right now. It's much easier to show how to do it in real life in three dimensions instead of two.

Dillon

One of the better sources of info regarding nib smoothing is John Mottishaw's article. It's referenced in the Repair Reference Information pinned thread at the top of this page, but for ease of looking up, I'll repeat it here. Wim's paper on nib grinding also has a bit of a discussion on the subject...

http://www.nibs.com/Article6SmoothingAdjusting.htm

Regards,

Gerry

Hi,

That appeared in the Pennant. It's a good article.

Dillon