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tonydacrow
Well,

I got most of my supplies and have started working with Urushi lacquer. I made a quick pen blank bottom out of ivory colored material so I could see the progress of my lacquering. While rather expensive, this stuff is quite fun. The lacquer itself is a thin, beige, milky liquid. It looks similar to the latex you’d find in milkweed or other common plants. However, as soon as it’s exposed to air it begins to darken. Once applied to the pen body it quickly turns a very, very dark, reddish brown. One layer fully cured produces an almost black color on the body of the pen.

Urushi doesn’t cure in the same way as most lacquers. Most lacquers are gums, resins or other polymers dissolved in a solvent like alcohol or acetone. When these carriers evaporate the solid is left as a hard shell. Urushi has no carrier. It is the sap of a tree that uses water vapor as a catalyst to promote the oxy-polymerization of the organics in the sap. That means you need a warm, humid place for the stuff to cure. I put it in the bathroom for 24 hours after applying each layer. Every time someone takes a shower it helps keep the humidity at the necessary levels. It works great!

I’m trying to be as authentic as possible, so I’m using powdered charcoal to smooth the lacquer between each layer. So far I’ve applied 6 layers. (I’ve actually applied 12 layers but screwed-up after the first six layers. wallbash.gif They didn’t cure properly so I had to remove them with a knife and sand paper.) The effect is a beautiful, dark-pool translucence. Once I have 15 – 25 layers, I’m going to start the decorations. I’m thinking of using egg-shell (rankaku-nuri) and different coloured gold powders (maki-e, kaishitsu-fun and ikakeji) for a cherry blossom effect; but that’s subject to change on a whim.

Urushi has a very disconcerting effect on most people’s skin. It contains Urushol. That’s the oil in poison ivy, poison sumac, poison oak, etc that causes allergic reactions in more than ½ the population. I’ve been keeping that in mind as I handle the stuff and wash thoroughly after each session. So far, I’ve had no problems of which I’m aware except one: this stuff has an odd smell. It’s an earthy, botanical smell with sweet/putrid overtones. As you can see, it’s hard to explain. The smell doesn’t bother me, but I think it would bother most. Fortunately, the smell diminishes as the Urushi cures.

An interesting thing about Urushi is that it lightens in color and becomes more transparent as it ages over the years. I’m hoping that this will allow some of the ivory color of the pen blank to come through, eventually.

There’s really nothing much to see at this point except for the deep, dark colour of the lacquer on the pen body. However, I’ll try to get some pictures going in the next few days if you guys are interested. I’ll also keep this thing updated as I progress. Again, assuming interest.

All the best,

Tony.
OldGriz
QUOTE(tonydacrow @ Jan 30 2007, 10:24 AM)
Well,

I got most of my supplies and have started working with Urushi lacquer. I made a quick pen blank bottom out of ivory colored material so I could see the progress of my lacquering. While rather expensive, this stuff is quite fun. The lacquer itself is a thin, beige, milky liquid. It looks similar to the latex you’d find in milkweed or other common plants. However, as soon as it’s exposed to air it begins to darken. Once applied to the pen body it quickly turns a very, very dark, reddish brown. One layer fully cured produces an almost black color on the body of the pen.

Urushi doesn’t cure in the same way as most lacquers. Most lacquers are gums, resins or other polymers dissolved in a solvent like alcohol or acetone. When these carriers evaporate the solid is left as a hard shell. Urushi has no carrier. It is the sap of a tree that uses water vapor as a catalyst to promote the oxy-polymerization of the organics in the sap. That means you need a warm, humid place for the stuff to cure. I put it in the bathroom for 24 hours after applying each layer. Every time someone takes a shower it helps keep the humidity at the necessary levels. It works great!

I’m trying to be as authentic as possible, so I’m using powdered charcoal to smooth the lacquer between each layer. So far I’ve applied 6 layers. (I’ve actually applied 12 layers but screwed-up after the first six layers. wallbash.gif They didn’t cure properly so I had to remove them with a knife and sand paper.) The effect is a beautiful, dark-pool translucence. Once I have 15 – 25 layers, I’m going to start the decorations. I’m thinking of using egg-shell (rankaku-nuri) and different coloured gold powders (maki-e, kaishitsu-fun and ikakeji) for a cherry blossom effect; but that’s subject to change on a whim.

Urushi has a very disconcerting effect on most people’s skin. It contains Urushol. That’s the oil in poison ivy, poison sumac, poison oak, etc that causes allergic reactions in more than ½ the population. I’ve been keeping that in mind as I handle the stuff and wash thoroughly after each session. So far, I’ve had no problems of which I’m aware except one: this stuff has an odd smell. It’s an earthy, botanical smell with sweet/putrid overtones. As you can see, it’s hard to explain. The smell doesn’t bother me, but I think it would bother most. Fortunately, the smell diminishes as the Urushi cures.

An interesting thing about Urushi is that it lightens in color and becomes more transparent as it ages over the years. I’m hoping that this will allow some of the ivory color of the pen blank to come through, eventually.

There’s really nothing much to see at this point except for the deep, dark colour of the lacquer on the pen body. However, I’ll try to get some pictures going in the next few days if you guys are interested. I’ll also keep this thing updated as I progress. Again, assuming interest.

All the best,

Tony.

Tony,
I am extremely interested in your progress... I have some really nice ebonite rod that is a very dark brown with some dark maroon streaking... I have been holding off doing anything with it until I found a finish I wanted...
So far the only thing I was able to think of was maybe 8-10 coats of hand rubbed nitrocellulose lacquer which would give a deep lasting finish... but the urushi would be so much nicer...
Can you give us any more information on the rubbing out process between coats..
mholve
Wow, that sounds pretty fascinating... Definitely post some pix of your progress.
MYU
Tony, I wish you much success on this artistic endeavor and I'm very much looking forward to your progress reports. What an interesting experience this is going to be for you. And if you have good results, I'm sure your pioneering will encourage others to try it as well. I think it's a great idea!

Are you following any particular advice on Urushi techniques from books, websites, people? Or are you just having a go at it ad-hoc?

~Gary
Cloud
Can you post, where you got the original material, all the pictures you can? You could even post picture after each layer to see what is the change / per layer. You could even make a video by superposing picture like a slide show to see the overall effect of each layer.

This is very cool!

I was wondering where do you get nib/feed/basic material, thread for the body...
Taki
Thanks for your update! Sounds like you are having fun!

I know the smell of urushi you are talking about since my grandparents were urushi craftman(and woman?). I know it's probably an offensive odor for most people, but it reminds me of my grandparents and their house smile.gif
tonydacrow
Tom:

The rubbing out is much like one would do with rottenstone powder and regular lacquer on high-end furniture. I used some of the chunk, hardwood charcoal I have for the barbeque and ground it in a mortar and pestle. (I then got smart and now use a coffee grinder for the initial grinding. However, you still need a mortar and pestle to get the charcoal as fine as possible.) I don’t think “briquettes” would work well for this application.

Sprinkle the powder on a good cotton cloth and dry-rub until you evenly abrade the layer of lacquer. The idea is to “smooth and even” more than anything else. Above all, make sure the lacquer is fully cured prior to rubbing. (On the final layers, I’ll be wet rubbing with either water or oil, depending on where I am in the process.)

As far as the ebonite, I think the Urushi will hide the nice color variations. This stuff is DARK. I’d probably put a few layers on the uncut rod and see how you like it before you cut a pen blank and commit yourself. Take it from me; removing this stuff after you’ve screwed-up is no fun!

Gary:

I’m doing this sort of ad hoc (ad hack?). However, I read everything I could find about Urushi for about two months prior to starting. One of the best, single sources of information I found is Wendy Maruyama's excellent article for California State University in San Diego found here.

Cloud:

I purchased the Urushi and associated stuff here. They supply materials to Japanese sword manufacturers (Urushi is used in more than just fountain pens!).

The change of color per layer is probably imperceptible in photos. Once the first layer is on, it looks black. Therefore, I don’t think posting pictures of each layer is workable. However, I will post what I can that helps illustrate the process.

I got the nibs as a whole unit from Swisher Pens found here. Materials for the body was found here. The threads I cut with a tap and die.

Taki:

You’re right I am having fun! laugh.gif
Cloud
Wow,

Tha was a fast reply full of information.

Thanks
FrankB
Truely, thou art a better man than me. Your project is very interesting. Please post some pictures when you can. Here is a case where I am as interested in the process as the outcome.
Phthalo
Agreed... I'd love to see and hear more as you progress. smile.gif
tonydacrow
Just a quick update:

Work has been a bear and I've fallen behind in my plans to take some pics and post a tutorial of sorts as to what I've done and how it's turning-out. Please rest assured that I will do so as soon as I can. I just didn't want you all to think I've forgotten or lost interest.

All the best,
Tony
johnr55
QUOTE(tonydacrow @ Feb 7 2007, 03:53 PM)
Work has been a bear and I've fallen behind in my plans to take some pics and post a tutorial of sorts as to what I've done and how it's turning-out.

QUOTE


I'll add my interest in your progress to others.

Ain't it a shame that so many of us have to take time out from our FP's for other distractions, like making a living? smile.gif
tonydacrow
Sorry, guys.

Work continues to consume my time. I don't want you to think I've given-up on posting on this topic. I'm working seven days a week and can't seem to find any time to even read the forum let alone post.

I promise I'll post as soon as I can, but I'm not sure where the light at the end of the tunnel is... unsure.gif
Dan Carmell
Assuming interest? Tony, what you have written is fascinating!

Please continue with the updates!

Dan
jd50ae
As you go photos..........?
MYU
No apologies necessary--don't feel any pressure on account of us! We're just waiting patiently to see how it goes. Good luck with your work and hopefully you'll get some free time to continue your Urushi project in the near future! smile.gif

I'm fantasizing about buying a plain smooth pen already made by someone with nib installed and then focusing on the Urushi technique to the barrel and cap. Maybe a project for the summer months, once Tony has shared his completed experience. wink.gif
jonro
What a great, unique project. I'm looking forward to reading updates about it. I'm also getting the urge to build a pen, at least for the experience knowledge I would gain about fountain pens by doing that.
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