Full Version: Napoleon
I like it a lot.
Would a comment on the photography be OK?
Most digital cameras calculate the exposure assuming the scenes averages out to 18% reflectivity (which is why old photographers carry 18% gray cards to use with exposure meters). Even if the scene doesn't average to 18% gray, the resulting photograph does.
You may wish to experiment with the exposure compensation controls on your camera to better render the background color/brightness of the paper. It may depend on the camera a little, but I found 2-2.5 stops more exposure works well for white paper, 1-1.5 stops for pastel paper. You'll have to check the manual to see how to do this as the controls vary from camera to camera.
Most digital cameras calculate the exposure assuming the scenes averages out to 18% reflectivity (which is why old photographers carry 18% gray cards to use with exposure meters). Even if the scene doesn't average to 18% gray, the resulting photograph does.
You may wish to experiment with the exposure compensation controls on your camera to better render the background color/brightness of the paper. It may depend on the camera a little, but I found 2-2.5 stops more exposure works well for white paper, 1-1.5 stops for pastel paper. You'll have to check the manual to see how to do this as the controls vary from camera to camera.
...
From another camera guy 
Oh, but first, the handwriting -- I've started on Write Now, too, and I like it! After 35 years of writing, now I know where the script lowercase s comes from! Although I just can't bring myself to use the cursive italic, so I just use basic italic with maybe a few cursives thrown in. You look like you've got the cursive italic down pretty well!
Now the camera stuff:
Your camera, unless it's really, really cheap, has two settings: auto and manual. Auto will look at the scene, calculate the overall average lighting, and then either close down the aperture to let in less light if the average lighting is brigther than 18% gray, or open up the aperture to let in more light if the average lighting is darker than 18% gray.
But what if your scene is mostly white, like if you're taking a picture of a white sheet of paper with dark lettering on it? Then your camera will screw you over royally! Your camera thinks the scene is way too bright, and so will close down the aperture until the scene is dark enough to come out to 18% gray. Thus, you end up with a washed-out dull image.
The same applies if your scene is naturally dark -- the camera will obligingly let in more light, and you end up with a washed-out bright image.
The solution is fairly straightforward -- go to automatic, press the button slightly so that the camera adjusts, and note what aperture it says it will use. It will say something like 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, and so on. Think of these as "dark levels" -- the higher the number, the less light is let through.
So, all you have to do is then go to manual, find the aperture setting on your camera, and move it up (more dark) or down (more light).
What if you're already at the lowest aperture setting? It means your camera isn't sensitive enough to the light, so the aperture is wide open. The only way now it can compensate is by leaving the aperture open for a longer period of time to let more light accumulate -- that is, the shutter speed goes down. Again, you can override the shutter speed if you have to in manual mode, but that has consequences -- like if your shutter is going to stay open for one second, you better hold the camera still for that one second!
That's the basic idea. There's other stuff involved, but these are the basics, and should serve you and your camera well!
--Rob
Oh, but first, the handwriting -- I've started on Write Now, too, and I like it! After 35 years of writing, now I know where the script lowercase s comes from! Although I just can't bring myself to use the cursive italic, so I just use basic italic with maybe a few cursives thrown in. You look like you've got the cursive italic down pretty well!
Now the camera stuff:
Your camera, unless it's really, really cheap, has two settings: auto and manual. Auto will look at the scene, calculate the overall average lighting, and then either close down the aperture to let in less light if the average lighting is brigther than 18% gray, or open up the aperture to let in more light if the average lighting is darker than 18% gray.
But what if your scene is mostly white, like if you're taking a picture of a white sheet of paper with dark lettering on it? Then your camera will screw you over royally! Your camera thinks the scene is way too bright, and so will close down the aperture until the scene is dark enough to come out to 18% gray. Thus, you end up with a washed-out dull image.
The same applies if your scene is naturally dark -- the camera will obligingly let in more light, and you end up with a washed-out bright image.
The solution is fairly straightforward -- go to automatic, press the button slightly so that the camera adjusts, and note what aperture it says it will use. It will say something like 2, 2.8, 4, 5.6, and so on. Think of these as "dark levels" -- the higher the number, the less light is let through.
So, all you have to do is then go to manual, find the aperture setting on your camera, and move it up (more dark) or down (more light).
What if you're already at the lowest aperture setting? It means your camera isn't sensitive enough to the light, so the aperture is wide open. The only way now it can compensate is by leaving the aperture open for a longer period of time to let more light accumulate -- that is, the shutter speed goes down. Again, you can override the shutter speed if you have to in manual mode, but that has consequences -- like if your shutter is going to stay open for one second, you better hold the camera still for that one second!
That's the basic idea. There's other stuff involved, but these are the basics, and should serve you and your camera well!
--Rob
I like the writing -- very clear and consistent. Actually, it kinda looks like mine (!) except I join more of the letters. I also like the use of unlined paper. Your lines are pretty straight for not using lines -- I'm still working on that on my handwriting -- and the line spacing very uniform. The writing seems "natural" and unforced, so the "face" of the writing (that's what I call the overall effect on the page) seems friendly and sincere.
Photo-wise, the only thing I have to add is that if you can't easily make the suggested adjustments in camera, you can always increase brightness and contrast after you get them into your computer using a simple photo editing program. I'm a Mac guy and use the version of iPhoto that comes with iLife. You get enough controls to do what you want without too much stuff that would just be confusing.
I like looking at people's handwriting. It doesn't have to be particularly "calligraphic" or "beautiful" for me to find it interesting -- I just like seeing the hand's "personality." So keep posting!
Doug
Photo-wise, the only thing I have to add is that if you can't easily make the suggested adjustments in camera, you can always increase brightness and contrast after you get them into your computer using a simple photo editing program. I'm a Mac guy and use the version of iPhoto that comes with iLife. You get enough controls to do what you want without too much stuff that would just be confusing.
I like looking at people's handwriting. It doesn't have to be particularly "calligraphic" or "beautiful" for me to find it interesting -- I just like seeing the hand's "personality." So keep posting!
Doug
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