I'm fixing up a bunch of Esties and have a couple of questions about how they are "supposed" to work - since I wasn't around to use them when they were new.

1. Lever tension - on most of my J pens I can open the lever to about 90 degrees and it "sticks" there until I push it the other way, then it springs shut. I just re-sacced an "SJ" whose lever will snap back sharply as soon as I let go of it. Does this one have a problem, or do the rest of them? Which is correct?

2. Nib tips - do all Esterbrook nibs have tips? I thought that the "1000" and "2000" series had tips created by folding over the end of the nib into a "ball", and the "9000" (and "3000"?) series had iridium-type tipping.

However, I have several nibs that seem to have a "cut off" tip with no tipping at all. At first I assumed they were just cut off to make a "stub" tip some time in the last 50 years, but it seems odd that I've found three of them.

Looking more closely, I have a 1550 that definitely looks like it's been snipped off - it's rough and nowhere near a fine point. Then I have two 1554s, one with a regular feed and one with a flat feed. The flat one came (new?) in a "GREGG 1554" box. Both 1554's have an untipped end, but they look identical and are both very smooth.

So... is the 1554 always untipped? And are there any others that come this way?

I'm going to be reselling some of these pens, and I don't want to sell pens with bad nibs.

Correct. The 1xxx and 2xxx series nibs are plain steel, w/ folded over tips. Since w/ wear it's inevitable that a tine will wear to the point of falling off, it's not surprised that some would be converted to stub nibs.

3xxx, 8xxx and 9xxx have a harder tipping material.

William

It's quite possible that you have some nibs that were purposely modified. I've had a number of my Esterbrook nibs modified. I've shown a bit of writing with one of my 2556 italic modified nibs in another post, here, just scroll down.

So, if only the one is rough, you may be able to sell the pens with smooth modified nibs, advertising them as such.

Best, Ann

P.S. There are factory made Esterbrook italic nibs, too, which are very nice. You may occasionally see those which won't have a ball-tip on the bottom. They are the xx12 series (2312, 9312 and there was either a 3312 or 8312--or possibly both.) I love these nibs! These command a higher price, if you can find any to sell.

(edited for P.S.)

Ann,

I'm not trying to get off topic here, but...

That writing sample looks very nice! Who did the nib work for you? (or did you do it?) Was it expensive? The x556 is such a common and inexpensive nib, I wouldn't mind picking up an extra one to have modified like that unless I can get similar results from a factory-made Esterbrook italic.

I noticed that you are an overwriter. I don't know much about oblique nibs--I am right handed--if I had a left foot oblique nib would my writing have the same line variation as your sample or would I probably need something different? I've actually never used an italic nib before other than when I was playing with some at the local pen store. I am going to start using one soon though. (I've actually got a Lamy italic nib on order right now.)

Thanks, Ann!

--Stephen

P.S. mmoncur, if you do end up finding and selling an italic Esterbrook nib, I'll keep an eye out for it!

Hi mmoncur,

Hope the following addresses your questions...



The original J-bars for these pens had a tab that stopped the lever travel just a tad beyond the 90 degree point - affording a stable open position 'lock'. When the lever was moved a little bit towards the closed position, it snapped shut.

New J-bars often don't have this tab, and sometimes overtravel to come to rest all the way over, which actually allows the bladder to fill, then it expels when it returns to the 90 degree point, then it fills again when allowed to close normally. This isn't a real problem, but is inelegant and not useful.

The problem you describe is probably caused by a J-bar that is not fully inserted into the barrel, stopping the lever before the 90+ degree position where it is stable, and letting it snap into the closed position when released.



All have tips , but not all are tipped... The rolled tips (solder filled, BTW) are less durable, but just as smooth when properly finished. As you note, the 9XXX nibs are fitted with iridium-type tipping material.


If the tip is broad - ie appears to be a stub - it most likely has been cut back to make a stub.



Although my database says I have a MIB NOS 1554 somewhere, I didn't see it in a quick look. My 1550 doesn't have any 'tipping' (not rolled IOW), and I suspect that the 1554 doesn't either.



Good on ya

Regards,

Gerry

Stephen, I'll answer your questions backchannel so we don't hijack this thread.

Ann

Ann,

Perhaps another thread is appropriate. For some reason I think that perhaps your discussion with Stephen might bring some interesting issues to either the estie forum (another thread perhaps) or something in the penmanship area.

I'd be happy to split the thread appropriately if you'd like...

Regards,

Gerry

mmoncur:



The x312 nibs are quite broad --- about as broad as the 1.1 mm Lamy italic nibs. I find my 9312 to be a bit smoother in feel and possibly a bit more crisp in terms of stroke variation, but that just may be a function of pens (my AlStar isn't quite as comfortable to me as my Esterbrook SJs or LJs) and ink (I've got the AlStar loaded w/ Sheaffer Skrip Blue Black which is a perfect match for its barrel colour, but so far have only used J. Herbin Cafe des Îles, Sheaffer Skrip Green and Red and Manuscript Sepia w/ the 9312).

The x556 are pretty narrow though, and cutting it to an oblique helps quite a bit in making a wider line.



Oblique nibs are a personal preference and greatly influenced by pen hold (whether or no one rolls the pen off the horizontal) and hand angle (straight forward or angled to the left or right).

William

Gerry - and all - thanks for the answers.

As for the lever, this led me to pulling out the J-bar and discovering that it was quite rusty. It cleaned up OK, but doesn't have much spring. After bending it around a bit and making sure the spacer was positioned correctly, the lever stops where it should.

Now the only problem is that the lever rattles a bit - I'm not sure this J-bar can be bent to stop that from happening, I've had it out and back in about 20 times. I'll have to consider a new J-bar for this one.

As for the nibs... thanks for letting me know there may be nothing wrong with these. I'll assume the 1554s are OK if they write smoothly. (The 1550 is definitely messed up, I'll use it to experiment with nib smoothing.)