I have a desk set with twin 51s on my desk at work.

I keep one filled with Parker black Quink for notes and signing and one with Waterman red for redaction purposes.

The red writes from the first nanosecond it hits the paper. The black needs priming if it hasn't been used earlier that day.

Is the difference the inks? I use Quink in other pens without experiencing performance anxiety.

Maybe I should clean them both and put the red in the reluctant performer and the black in the one that works first time?

I would suggest that it is the Black Quink, not their best ink IMHO, I would maybe flush it out and try a different ik, or tweak the nib to get it a bit wetter. I had to use a black ink for years in my Parker 61 and I always had Quink Black in that in either cartridge or cc filler and it was always a bad starter. Since I rarely use a black in these days, I have other inks in that pen and it is just fine.

I would try Waterman or Aurora black as it is a vintage pen, Diamine Quartz Black is supposed to be a better black as their other stuff was really dark grey, but I have not tried it.

Jim

I am at the office now and checked - it is actually blue Quink (with Solvex, whatever the heck that is).

Maybe I will try a different ink next time around, thanks.

Woah Bill,

That is one of my 'GoTo' inks for a difficult writer, the permanent blue with Solv-X is a very free fowing ink, so you need to look deeper into this. Has this pen had a really good clean? Either through a US Cleaner or maybe a complete strip down? What I have found is that despite flushing you can still get a problem and need to floss the nib to get the gunk out from between the tines. You can partly do it with the hood on, with a bit of clean 35mm film, but really you need the hood off to do a full job.

If you get the hood off and get the nib out, have a good look at the nib. I had always believed that because the "51" nib was so tough, it would not be affected by the writer. WRONG :doh:

I have since seen a number of "51" nibs where the end has an upward tilt and is bent to the left. I can only surmise that this comes from years of heavy hand pushing down and dragging the nib to the right. The more the nib gets deformed in this way the worse the flow gets and it needs more pressure to start it off. This may not be the issue here, but the first thing I would do is have a good look at the nib through a loupe and maybe get that hood off for a better examination.

Best of luck

Jim

While I haven't experienced it, Richard has had problems in several pens with black Quink. Pens that will not write with black Quink write just fine with anything else.

Note that it's black. I have used blue-black Quink for years without problems, and usually use it to test clients pens. I don't own any black Quink.

Yes, I always run new (to me) pens through the US cleaner, but perhaps another go round is in order.

I hesitate to decloak the nib as I've never done that on a 51 - any tricks?

Is the parker 51 discontinued?

The Original Design of the Parker 51 Aero was discontinued in 1969
The Mark III, which looked like a Parker 61 somewhat, was discontinued in 1972.

The pen currently called the Parker 51 by Parker is in no way the same pen that all of us vintage junkies know and love.

Bill,

Getting the hood off is not too hard, more of a knack, you have to heat it, SWMBO's hairdryer is the best tool, to soften the shelac, then it unscrews, I use a rubber glove to get a grip.

Richard B's site has all the info on what you find under the hood and it is then fairly simple to get it all apart and give it a real good clean out. Don't force anything, just soak and US clean it as there may be some solid stuff under there. Getting it all aligned can be tricky the first couple of times, the trick is to get it all set up but just under a quarter turn out, then you dab a bit of shelac on the threads and tighten up.

It is actually easier than it sounds once you get to it.

Jim

I second the notion that checking under the hood of a "51" is easily accomplished by users. A "51" is made from high gauge materials (unlike the 21 that has a lower grade plastic, which is more prone to fracture) and was meant to be taken apart and cleaned.

Besides, there is something very satisfying about fixing a valued thing yourself. Who can work on a car these days?- Quoth, The Curmudgeon Jack

A "feeler gauge" set from an auto supply store made up of thin pieces of steel which has .0015" (.04 mm) or .002 (.05 mm) leaves also make nice durable flossers/burnishers.

Just:
Set aside time for the task.

Read
http://www.richardspens.com/ref_info/anatomy-51.htm
and http://www.vintagepens.com/parker_51.shtml
and http://www.rickconner.net/penspotters/parker.51.html

And anything else you can google-up.

Jack

I can never use pure quink in a lot of my pens. The flow is not good (unless I add a drop of dishwashing liquid into the bottle )